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Borg Warner T5 In A 59

 
Old 09-14-2009, 07:55 PM
  #41  
lynns59
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Well I haven't made much progress with this deal. The guy I bought it from is trying to find a good used cluster and input. If not it will be new ones. That's not the only problem I have though. The flywheel that came with it is for a Gen II small block which means it won't bolt up to my crank. The hole in the middle and bolt circle are smaller. It needs to be 1985 back. Also, I can't use my flywheel because it's the bigger 168 tooth flywheel for an 11" clutch. It won't work with the T5 bell housing. So, I need a 153 tooth flywheel for an earlier small block. I know I can buy new aftermarket for $80 to $150 but I don't want one made in China. I could also get a new GM from GM Performance for $180 plus shipping but I should be able to find a good used one. So far, no luck. I've got another flywheel but it's a big one to. I have the old cast iron bellhousing which I would use if not for rotating the transmission 17 degrees. I'm also going to have to get another starter for 153 tooth flywheel since mine is for the larger one. So far this project is not starting off good.
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Old 09-16-2009, 04:35 PM
  #42  
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Lynns59,

I tried to post pictures but there is a formatting problem with the system I am using. Anyway, don't give up. Ebay can be infuriating and I would just return the transmission for a refund. Been there, done it. Find a decent WC unit, look at it, and do all the field checks before buying it. The 17 deg. rotation issue is easily resolved. Go with an aluminum 4 sp. bell housing for the 78-82 4 sp., 10.5 clutch. I will try and get some kind of photo/procedure on this site.
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Old 09-16-2009, 05:39 PM
  #43  
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Lynns 59,

There is a T5 on ebay that will work for you . . . it's the exact same unit that I picked up a few weeks ago . . . TAG # 13-52-196 (has a .63 5th gear) . . . .---->>>>> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy...=p4506.c0.m245

Good luck!!!

Tom
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Old 09-16-2009, 08:40 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by dgsmith View Post
Lynns59,

I tried to post pictures but there is a formatting problem with the system I am using. Anyway, don't give up. Ebay can be infuriating and I would just return the transmission for a refund. Been there, done it. Find a decent WC unit, look at it, and do all the field checks before buying it. The 17 deg. rotation issue is easily resolved. Go with an aluminum 4 sp. bell housing for the 78-82 4 sp., 10.5 clutch. I will try and get some kind of photo/procedure on this site.
Hey dg, just email them to me. I can't wait to see them. The guy tells me he's just going to order the gears for my T5 so we'll see. So far he's been really good about everything. My concern with not rotating the transmission is being able to get the shifter back to the original hole since I want to keep the interior appearance stock. Just looking at the C2 pics on here, even rotated you still have to make a piece to offset the shifter. If it's not rotated and the shifter is centered in the tunnel, I won't be able to offset it that much will I? Oh and the aluminum bell housing, I let one go with a Muncie I sold this past weekend.
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Old 09-17-2009, 02:27 PM
  #45  
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I'm not clear if a C-1 has a console, if not, then you should not have any of the problems C-2's have, with off setting shifter.

1 other point is the cross over shaft where the clutch rod connects to it and the clutch fork. I had to drill several holes in the cross over shaft to get the clutch to release easily, and at the same time disengage correctly.

Dennis
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Old 09-17-2009, 03:31 PM
  #46  
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Sent you a PM, no subject.
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Old 09-18-2009, 09:26 PM
  #47  
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Well here is another V8 Camaro T5 with no reserve.http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1985-...=p4506.c0.m245
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Old 09-28-2009, 11:50 PM
  #48  
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Well I've figured out that there is no way this T5 is going in without cutting a section out of the tunnel. I've got everything out of the case since I've got to put in a new cluster and input anyway. I bolted the tail housing and front bearing retainer back on case. It's lighter and easier to work with as far as doing a trial fit. I've cut the lugs off the bottom of the tail housing like has been discussed here but there is no way to push the T5 far enough back to come close to getting the input bearing retainer in the bell housing much less with the input shaft in it. I thought I might be able to bolt the bell housing to the trans and get it to clear the pressure plate but it won't. The tunnel area above the frame X bracing is really tight. I don't think there is a problem getting the shifter close to the original hole but it won't go far enough back. I'm thinking about cutting a 6" to 8" long section out of the tunnel there so it will clear and either form a piece of metal and screw it in or make some metal strips and put the cut out section back. Either way it needs to be a removable piece in case something happens and I need to pull the T5 out.
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Old 10-03-2009, 06:27 PM
  #49  
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Well after talking to the guy who installed the T5 in bopewells 60 Vette I found out he bolted the transmission to the engine and put it in together. My engine is in the car so that's not possible. The only problem with that is if something happened to your trans and you had to pull it out the only way to get it out is to unbolt the engine and move it forward about 6" or so which would be aggravating. He also said that he had to raise the tunnel about 3/4" to clear the shifter area. So knowing all I know now and after seeing that there is no way to get it in as it is now, I'm going to cut the tunnel from the shifter opening back about 6 or 8 inches and from about where the seat bottom mounts. That will give me the clearance I need do get it in. After that I'll make some flanges out of sheet metal and screw it back in place which I will be able to remove in the future if I have some problems and need to pull it back out. I'll also raise it a little. I'm also having to make new clutch linkage. My new cluster gear, input shaft and other parts are supposed to be in Monday. Maybe I can take some pictures and post them later.
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Old 11-08-2009, 08:36 PM
  #50  
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I've posted some pics of this T5 swap on photo bucket for all of you to look at. The T5 is back out of the car so I can put it back together. Since it had to be torn apart to replace the bad cluster and input anyway it was better to wait until everything was mocked up since it's much lighter gutted. Hope to have it all together soon.

http://s730.photobucket.com/albums/w...e%20T5%20Pics/

Last edited by lynns59; 11-08-2009 at 08:40 PM.
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Old 11-26-2009, 09:01 PM
  #51  
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I know that a Non World Class T5 uses 70wt. gear oil but so far I've not been able to find any where I live. Does anybody know what other gear oil will work in a NWC T5? Most everything around here is a multi-viscosity gear oil.
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Old 11-26-2009, 09:09 PM
  #52  
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Automatic tranmission fluid is what I understand you are suppose to use.

That is what my T-5 has, I was told to use by the transmission specialist I had go through my T-5 before I installed it
Dennis .
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Old 11-26-2009, 09:24 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by OCS1667 View Post
Automatic tranmission fluid is what I understand you are suppose to use.

That is what my T-5 has, I was told to use by the transmission specialist I had go through my T-5 before I installed it
Dennis .
Well I know that's what you're supposed to use in a World Class T5 because of the needle bearings in them but everything I've read so far calls for gear oil in a Non World Class and ATF in a World Class. I got that info off different websites about the T5. I'm not arguing with you or anything, that's just what I've read.
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Old 11-26-2009, 09:35 PM
  #54  
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I have a non world class, and that is what has been in my car/trans for almost two years. Runs great and shifts as smooth as butter, as the cliche goes.

You can go nuts with all the advice out there, check with GM, they should be the one telling you what or what not to use. No problem here with Auto transmission fluid, I'm sure that's what they will say. Let me know what they do tell you, I would be interested.
Dennis
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Old 11-26-2009, 10:23 PM
  #55  
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What kind of ATF is in your T5?
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Old 11-27-2009, 12:09 PM
  #56  
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I really don't know what type, I was told that is what he put in it and only use auto trans fluid.

I'm sorry I could not answer your question specifically.
Dennis
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Old 11-27-2009, 02:33 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by lynns59 View Post
What kind of ATF is in your T5?
Lynns59 - Did you ever get my photos? You have removed a lot of the tunnel, a lot more than I had to. Be sure you seam in the new/replacement tunnel cover well. Also, I use Mobil 1 auto trans. fluid in my T5. Never have had a problem.
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Old 11-27-2009, 06:47 PM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by dgsmith View Post
Lynns59 - Did you ever get my photos? You have removed a lot of the tunnel, a lot more than I had to. Be sure you seam in the new/replacement tunnel cover well. Also, I use Mobil 1 auto trans. fluid in my T5. Never have had a problem.
Yes I got the photos. I had to remove that much to get it in the car. Tunnel cover as you call it is the section I removed with fiberglass added to the bottom of both sides. It will screw in place so I can remove it if I ever have to pull the trans out. I have it sealed up real well. I also have a brace made which you can see in the pictures as well as a new metal tunnel shield to replace the original one. I had to raise the tunnel around the shifter area about an inch to clear the shifter. It's all glassed up and braced up good. I'm getting close. I guess the ATF will work but I know a lot of different sites, not forums call for 70 weight gear oil for a NWC. What kind of Mobil 1 did you use?
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Old 11-27-2009, 09:22 PM
  #59  
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What happened when you contacted the local GM service on what they used and was specified in the 80's Camaros and Trans Am that used this trans.

Are we beating this to death or what.

Dennis
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Old 11-27-2009, 10:23 PM
  #60  
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silverslashstreak says he uses GM Syncromesh in his T5. I looked it up and it's what GM recommends for all of their manual transmissions and all Tremecs. I see where Quaker State also makes the same stuff. From what I've read, it's recommended for transmissons with bronze, brass, and copper components. From what I've read some fluids are bad on brass synronizers. I'll try to get some of that.
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