In-line locking fuel shutoff for C1?
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
In-line locking fuel shutoff for C1?
I am looking for creative solutions for an in-line fuel shutoff. Ideally it would be keyed or require a special handle to operate and placed along frame rail near the real wheel of a C1.
Any suggestions on the type of valve and how this has been implemented by forum members?
Don
Any suggestions on the type of valve and how this has been implemented by forum members?
Don
#2
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Feb 2004
Location: Norcal CA
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2018 C1 of Year Finalist
I am looking for creative solutions for an in-line fuel shutoff. Ideally it would be keyed or require a special handle to operate and placed along frame rail near the real wheel of a C1.
Any suggestions on the type of valve and how this has been implemented by forum members?
Don
Any suggestions on the type of valve and how this has been implemented by forum members?
Don
Something like this???
12 Volt Multi Fuel Shut Off Valve.
http://www.dan-marcrvparts.com/12vomufushof.html
#3
Race Director
I suspect any speed shop would have these for the gasoline supply of nitrous systems.
Is this a theft deterrent? if so, it would be simpler to put a fuse in the main power supply line and then a ground wire AFTER the fuse to ground, with a switch to open teh ground wire. When parked, you throw the switch, so any current will blow teh fuse.
No thief will ever find the fuse, or even know what to look for, and throwing the switch open again won't do anygood until the fuse is found and replaced.
Keep spare fuses for when you forget.
Doug
Is this a theft deterrent? if so, it would be simpler to put a fuse in the main power supply line and then a ground wire AFTER the fuse to ground, with a switch to open teh ground wire. When parked, you throw the switch, so any current will blow teh fuse.
No thief will ever find the fuse, or even know what to look for, and throwing the switch open again won't do anygood until the fuse is found and replaced.
Keep spare fuses for when you forget.
Doug
#4
Drifting
I suspect any speed shop would have these for the gasoline supply of nitrous systems.
Is this a theft deterrent? if so, it would be simpler to put a fuse in the main power supply line and then a ground wire AFTER the fuse to ground, with a switch to open teh ground wire. When parked, you throw the switch, so any current will blow teh fuse.
No thief will ever find the fuse, or even know what to look for, and throwing the switch open again won't do any good until the fuse is found and replaced.
Keep spare fuses for when you forget.
Doug
Is this a theft deterrent? if so, it would be simpler to put a fuse in the main power supply line and then a ground wire AFTER the fuse to ground, with a switch to open teh ground wire. When parked, you throw the switch, so any current will blow teh fuse.
No thief will ever find the fuse, or even know what to look for, and throwing the switch open again won't do any good until the fuse is found and replaced.
Keep spare fuses for when you forget.
Doug
Just my two cents, rustylugnuts
#5
Race Director
Doug - So every time you park your car, you would have to change the fuse...... Why not put a remote switch in line with the power wire after the fuse to turn on/off the solenoid with your remote key chain activator. The only way the thief will be able to start your car is if he/she has your keys.
Just my two cents, rustylugnuts
Just my two cents, rustylugnuts
Much harder for thief to try and figure out a burned fuse in someplace not readily visible than trace down some wires, especially if the thief is competent on older car wiring. Simply flipping the switch after the fuse is burned, out won't help.
Doesn't require any extra keys or gizmos to lose.
I used a deadman fuse like this in the power line to my electric fuel pump, back when i had a carbed car.
Beauty of that was, there was usually enough fuel in the float bowls to get the car about 1/2 block away before it died, on a street, where someone is less likely to search for the problem.
Also good in the event of a carjack, you can flip the switch as you get out of the car, and let the perp get 1/2 block before car dies.
Doug
#6
Le Mans Master
The great thing about a fuel cut off switch is that after it's stolen it runs out of gas at the most inopportune time (like the middle of the road).
The simpler the better (a valve the you manually close) no voltage needed.
Like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MTI18C/...SIN=B000MTI18C
The simpler the better (a valve the you manually close) no voltage needed.
Like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MTI18C/...SIN=B000MTI18C
#7
Drifting
[QUOTE=knight37128;1571302634]The great thing about a fuel cut off switch is that after it's stolen it runs out of gas at the most inopportune time (like the middle of the road).
The simpler the better (a valve the you manually close) no voltage needed.
Like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MTI18C/...SIN=B000MTI18C[/QUOT
I rather just press a button on my key chain, but to each his own.....
rustylugnuts
The simpler the better (a valve the you manually close) no voltage needed.
Like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MTI18C/...SIN=B000MTI18C[/QUOT
I rather just press a button on my key chain, but to each his own.....
rustylugnuts
#8
Melting Slicks
I've got an inline fuel petcock shut off valve plumbed into the long fuel line that runs alongside the passenger side frame rail. I use it as an anti-theft device and for storage. It's also been handy when I wanted to shut off the gas supply in order to change the fuel pump. And it helped me install the line. That line is pretty long and is hard to install. Cutting it in half helped to get it in. I cut the fuel line and plumbed it in about right next to the passenger door. Used compression fittings, which are safe enough because the gas isn't under pressure there. It's a 1/4 turn jobbie that looks like the one someone posted. Handle in line with the lines means it allows gas through. Handle at a 90 angle to the lines means it's closed. It's easy to reach down under there and simply turn it on and off. Those valves can be found in the Plumbing section of your local hardware store.
#9
Burning Brakes
great idea
Chris, your solution is exactly what I've been looking for. How much fuel line did you need to remove to fit the valve in the line? How did you stop the fuel from running out when you made the first cut?
I need to shut the fuel off to change the fuel pump.
Thanks,
Bud
I need to shut the fuel off to change the fuel pump.
Thanks,
Bud
#10
Melting Slicks
I used a ball valve from my local Home Depot. Any hardware store should have it. Something similar to this:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Homewerks...2?N=5yc1vZbbl6
Not sure if the above one is the right size. I used compression fittings on both ends of the valve. Compression fittings are fine in this application because the fuel here is not under pressure. I placed my valve directly under the back edge of the passenger door. So I can go right to it without looking.
I forget now if the fuel line is ⅜" or 5/16". The compression fittings you buy will need to match the inlet and outlet on the valve and the fuel line. In the department where you find the ball valves, you'll also find the compression fittings. I assembled the valve and the two fittings, and then measured how much length that assembly would take out of the line. Remember that the line on both ends will go through the compression fittings and into the valve. Also remember that you can get away with taking out too little. You can't get away with taking out too much. You can always go back and cut some more. You can't put it back. I seem to remember that I only cut out about one (1) inch or maybe less.
When I did mine, the line was out of the car. But you can also do it with the line in the car. You will spill some gas, so be prepared. One way is to disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pump, and blow back into the line. That will break the fuel connection, and gas won't siphon out of the tank. You could also clamp the rubber fuel hose at either the top of the tank or at the other end of the fuel line down by the right rear tire.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Homewerks...2?N=5yc1vZbbl6
Not sure if the above one is the right size. I used compression fittings on both ends of the valve. Compression fittings are fine in this application because the fuel here is not under pressure. I placed my valve directly under the back edge of the passenger door. So I can go right to it without looking.
I forget now if the fuel line is ⅜" or 5/16". The compression fittings you buy will need to match the inlet and outlet on the valve and the fuel line. In the department where you find the ball valves, you'll also find the compression fittings. I assembled the valve and the two fittings, and then measured how much length that assembly would take out of the line. Remember that the line on both ends will go through the compression fittings and into the valve. Also remember that you can get away with taking out too little. You can't get away with taking out too much. You can always go back and cut some more. You can't put it back. I seem to remember that I only cut out about one (1) inch or maybe less.
When I did mine, the line was out of the car. But you can also do it with the line in the car. You will spill some gas, so be prepared. One way is to disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pump, and blow back into the line. That will break the fuel connection, and gas won't siphon out of the tank. You could also clamp the rubber fuel hose at either the top of the tank or at the other end of the fuel line down by the right rear tire.
#11
Racer
Back in 1969 I drove a 1962 Corvette to and from the local community college where it often sat in the parking lot all day. For security I removed the coil wire from my coil and ran it to a toggle switch that I located under the driver seat and then from the switch back to the coil. Flipping the switch interrupted the power to the coil and though the car would crank it wouldn't start. No one knew it was there and you would have had to remove the ignition shielding to find it. Worked great for years. Today I never get out of sight of my car and as a backup I carry a compact .45 caliber pistol everywhere I go.
Don
Don
#12
Safety Car
Member Since: Feb 2007
Location: Northern California CA
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Back in 1969 I drove a 1962 Corvette to and from the local community college where it often sat in the parking lot all day. For security I removed the coil wire from my coil and ran it to a toggle switch that I located under the driver seat and then from the switch back to the coil. Flipping the switch interrupted the power to the coil and though the car would crank it wouldn't start. No one knew it was there and you would have had to remove the ignition shielding to find it. Worked great for years. Today I never get out of sight of my car and as a backup I carry a compact .45 caliber pistol everywhere I go.
Don
Don
I like the backup tool!!
Excited to put mine back together after it was stolen last year. Unfortunately, I'll be more paranoid than ever when I take it out!
Pat
Last edited by ptjsk; 11-30-2014 at 11:16 AM.
#13
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
I've got an inline fuel petcock shut off valve plumbed into the long fuel line that runs alongside the passenger side frame rail. I use it as an anti-theft device and for storage.
there are some touch/pressure sensitive switches that are very thin you can hide in door panels etc to help wire in a hidden kill thats discrete so when you shut the car off people dont see you reaching for something out of the way.
rarely use the fuel cutoff I just insured the car real well.