Canute

I have my PG loose but it's still trapped underneath the car. I was wondering what the trick is to getting it free?

67*427

Need a little more information. Is it stuck to the block? Is it hitting the floor? Have you separated the torque converter from the flex plate?

There are lots of possibilities so we need a little more info....

Steve

Canute

It's loose from the engine, converter is unbolted and bungied to the bellhousing, with the tail housing trapped on top of the frame cross member. I can snap a pic. The only thing I haven't done is remove the shifter, which I guess is a big duh. I also left the yoke in, also a big duh.
First things I'm going to take care of when I go out to work on it later .

67*427

Can't help with that one. Hopefully someone with a Powerglide mid-year will jump in here.

Steve

Canute

It's kind of looking to me as if I have to unbolt and lift the engine then move it forward a few inches so the trans will clear the middle K-member? Now I'm starting to regret not doing a body lift. I've done just about everything anyway.

jackhays

Make sure you remove the shifter, kick down linkage, both cooler lines at the right front, and yoke.
Jack the back of the motor slightly as it will lower as they are seperate and take away some room.
The transmission comes down at the front on the left side slightly.
It takes some adjustments but it will come out.

Canute

So, it's been out of the car and at the shop for a few weeks. I'm going to have to call them tomorrow and tell them the holidays are over .
Anyway, what is the filler tube supposed to look like? It has many years of patina and a few colors of paint.

JohnZ

The fill tube was painted semi-gloss black.

4440stevesvette

I just removed the powerglide out of my '65 yesterday and what a PITA. It would have been worth it to let the transmission shop remove it, replace all the seals and reinstall it for the $600.00 they quoted me. Instead I opted for the $200.00 resealing if I brought it in to them. HARD PART was getting it down and out of the crossmember because the tailshaft is really buried in that crossmember. The bellhousing would jam against the flexplate and get hung up with a couple of inches of tailshaft still in the crossmember. To reinstall it I'm going the lift the engine up enough to clear the motor mountsand move it forward 3 or 4 inches in order to bolt the transmission back on and THEN slide it back into the crossmember. The only good part about doing it myself is I get to clean up all the pieces before putting it back in. And I'm not even mentioning the holes I had to cut in the driveshaft tunnel so I could get the bolts out securing the rear end support bracket in order to reach the driveshaft U-bolts. Like I said, what a PITA.

Canute

In the end I didn't think it was too bad getting it out. I'll see how it is getting it back in. I do want to get a little more room under the car to work in. Truck sized jack stands are a lot better.
Taking the engine off of its mounts might make it easier if that didn't mean unbolting a bunch of other stuff.
I just don't have a pick point. I understand I could put straps around the exhaust manifolds and lift it that way?

4440stevesvette

I plan to remove the carb. and bolt on one of those $10.00 carb. plates with the 3 holes in the vertical piece where you can hook the chain hoist too. Engine by itself should balance perfectly in the center hole. Good luck!!!

Canute

I did end up lifting the engine a few inches. I recommend unbolting the engine mounts from the frame after the trans is unbolted from everything. That will make it easier to get it out from under the car and back in as well. It would seem to be easier, in a car with power steering, to get the trans in and out through the passenger side as there's a lot less to hang up on. It was just inconvenient for me since my car is on the right side of my garage.

Canute

One trick I've figured out is to put a small piece of thin wood on top of the tranny jack. It's a lot easier on the pan than the bolt heads for the arms.

Canute

Now I have another potential problem. The trans shop painted over the alignment marks on my converter. My question is how big of a problem this is going to be and if it is going to be a real problem, how can I have more than a one in three chance of getting it right?

itsonlyairandfuel

You should be fine. If it vibrates, just reposition it. Ron B.

Canute

One thing I was wondering about, are there supposed to be washers on all of the engine block to bell housing bolts?
This would really have been a lot easier if I had done a body lift...

JohnZ

Nope. No washers - just bolts, as shown in the M35 section in your Assembly Manual.

Canute

Damn, I was finishing things up last night and I noticed that there's a big gouge out of the transmission yoke. I think I want another one of those...