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So You Wonder Why Your Soft Top Leaks

Old 01-14-2010, 09:04 PM
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wombvette
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Default So You Wonder Why Your Soft Top Leaks

I got a `65 soft top job in today. It happens to have the original cover still on, and while is is not in great shape, it is original. So I decided to photo document it while I take it apart to install the new one. I have a very nice original `66, but I wont be taking that apart, so this is a good opportunity. More on that later, but I thought I would compare the front weatherstrip that is supplied with modern kits, vs the original. We all have trouble with these things leaking across the front.

Here is a cross sectional view. Notice the original has a different cross section shape. The original is 7/8 inch wide on the sealing surface while the repro is only 3/4 inch. The original is much thicker which also will make it seal better. The original has closed cell rubber with much more rigidity and has a reinforcement strip of hard plastic. The reproduction has a very open cell construction and also has an open chamber which makes it very flimsy.

No wonder the thing leaks.

Old 01-14-2010, 09:14 PM
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robert miller
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Default ttt

Dam big diff here. It really is a shame this day and time and all someone is thinking about is making a buck and crap if it works are not.
Old 01-14-2010, 09:20 PM
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Bluestripe67
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I wonder if the repros can be modified by cutting an opening at the middle and inserting a section of plastic to the right and left of center. The plastic would have to be L shaped, but the kind that would maintain tension too keep the area from collapsing. Dennis
Old 01-15-2010, 08:54 AM
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pltmgr
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Not sure the original design was that great. My C2 (and C3) both leaked at highway speeds when they were relatively new. My C4's, C5 and C6 never leaked a drop,
Old 01-15-2010, 09:01 AM
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possibly sliding, end-to-end, a small diameter plastic or rubber tube through one or both open spaces would give the necessary rigidity to it...
Bill
Old 01-15-2010, 10:31 AM
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ragtopman
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Originally Posted by wmf62
possibly sliding, end-to-end, a small diameter plastic or rubber tube through one or both open spaces would give the necessary rigidity to it...
Bill
...and I cant remember where I had seen some, but it was basically foam tubing. Making it more firm like that, I dont know if it will allow it to smash down and seal because of the different sizes.
Old 01-15-2010, 10:43 AM
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Jackfit
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Default Yes they leaked when new

Originally Posted by pltmgr
Not sure the original design was that great. My C2 (and C3) both leaked at highway speeds when they were relatively new. My C4's, C5 and C6 never leaked a drop,

Had my 66 roadster for 40 years and it has always leaked at highway speeds.

I feel the problem is the two latches are at the ends of front bow. The top always leaked from middle above mirror. The more you tighten the ends latches, the more the middle bows, letting in water. I would hold down the top just above mirror to stop water at high speeds.

I am going to install a boat latch (right size to fit ) just above mirror. With the middle tight, the end latches will now work in way designed.

I will post pictures when done.

Jack

Last edited by Jackfit; 01-15-2010 at 10:45 AM. Reason: additional words
Old 01-15-2010, 11:27 AM
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wmf62
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Originally Posted by ragtopman
...and I cant remember where I had seen some, but it was basically foam tubing. Making it more firm like that, I dont know if it will allow it to smash down and seal because of the different sizes.
one kind of the foam stuff is called 'backer bar/rod' and can be bought at large contractor supply places or even Lowes/Home Depot. it is normally used to seal joints in concrete formwork to keep the concrete from seeping out before it sets.
Bill
Old 01-15-2010, 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by pltmgr
Not sure the original design was that great. My C2 (and C3) both leaked at highway speeds when they were relatively new. My C4's, C5 and C6 never leaked a drop,
my old 63 leaked badly over the windshield when I got it with 25k miles in 1966

PS - I tried all that plastic tube in a seal stuff. Didn't work.

What did work was installing a Cavalier convertible header bar seal in front of the covette rubber seal. The Cav seal is a clamshell design, and you can insert foam at the center and at the reveal molding overlap areas. Mine holds up to 85mph in a storm.

Last edited by magicv8; 01-15-2010 at 12:51 PM.
Old 01-15-2010, 01:04 PM
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Jackfit
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Default Do you have a picture?

Originally Posted by magicv8
my old 63 leaked badly over the windshield when I got it with 25k miles in 1966

PS - I tried all that plastic tube in a seal stuff. Didn't work.

What did work was installing a Cavalier convertible header bar seal in front of the covette rubber seal. The Cav seal is a clamshell design, and you can insert foam at the center and at the reveal molding overlap areas. Mine holds up to 85mph in a storm.

I would love to see what it looks like installed. As you know, the 48 state trip I have coming up this summer, is going to have some rain days and I may need to keep driving rain or not. Took much work on new interior to ruin with water.

PS I have put you on map, since you have owned your car a long long long time. Let me know I can stop by. Should be around 10 of August. See map. Starting in Maine August 1, south to NYC , west to NY and mid-west.

Jack

http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?hl=en...,119.53125&z=4
Old 01-15-2010, 01:10 PM
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Let us know if it leaks after you put the newer seal on. Thanks.
Old 01-15-2010, 01:26 PM
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I have pics of the seal held in place with a copper pipe while the clear silicone dries, but I do not have one of the finished project - and the garage is freezing right now. I'll try to get a pic later.

I am normally hiking in the Rockies in August. Last year I hiked during the 3rd week, the 3 years before, during the first week. I haven't made reservations yet for 2010, but if I am home, you are welcome to stay here. I just got done making a weeks worth of Hot Rod power Tour reservations for June, and I'm not quite ready to tackle August yet - but I'm leaning toward driving to Vancouver and taking the ferry to Alaska, which will be a longer trip than my usual 11 days on the road
or
visiting Mesa Verde National Park in CO which would be only a 3k mile trip.

PM sent to jackfit - August dates okay to stay here

Last edited by magicv8; 01-18-2010 at 05:16 PM.
Old 01-15-2010, 10:32 PM
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mikey
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Originally Posted by Jackfit
Had my 66 roadster for 40 years and it has always leaked at highway speeds.

I feel the problem is the two latches are at the ends of front bow. The top always leaked from middle above mirror. The more you tighten the ends latches, the more the middle bows, letting in water. I would hold down the top just above mirror to stop water at high speeds.

I am going to install a boat latch (right size to fit ) just above mirror. With the middle tight, the end latches will now work in way designed.

I will post pictures when done.

Jack

interested in seeing this solution.. i was planning to design a latch for the center also.. something that bolts into the C2 at the same two screws used for the mirror. the lack of strength in the bow and lack of clamping in the center is definitely the main contributor to this problem!
Old 01-15-2010, 11:08 PM
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Originally Posted by pltmgr
Not sure the original design was that great. My C2 (and C3) both leaked at highway speeds when they were relatively new. My C4's, C5 and C6 never leaked a drop,
Same here. My future wife was "trained" to soak up the water with a towel that dripped down from the windshield (this was on my 66 convertible in 1969 to 1972). She now does it in the 62.

My C3 T-Top coupe never leaked, nor did my C4 Targa coupe, and my C5 convertible has not either.

Plasticman.
Old 01-15-2010, 11:12 PM
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Originally Posted by mikey
interested in seeing this solution.. i was planning to design a latch for the center also.. something that bolts into the C2 at the same two screws used for the mirror. the lack of strength in the bow and lack of clamping in the center is definitely the main contributor to this problem!
Interesting in that my Jaguar XKE roadsters had 3 latches across the top, and they never leaked. And that is an easy top to put up or down (can do it while stopped at a stop light without getting out of the vehicle, and was completely "manual"). Of course they did not have the streamlined and stylish rear deck cover...................

Plasticman
Old 01-16-2010, 12:14 AM
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In late November of 69 I left Chicago to take a new job in the San Francisco bay area, in my 67 Vette that just 4 weeks earlier I had purchased a vinyl hardtop for. All was well until I hit Wyoming while traveling at about 90 mph on Interstate 80 and it began to snow and sleet and I found that the front seal on this hardtop was allowing this sleet to enter the car striking me full in the face at said 90 mph. At the next stop for fuel, I was able to buy a roll of masking tape which I used to tightly seal the front of the top to the upper windshield moulding.

To this day I can remember just how painful this was on my face,,,I'd even put my sunglasses on while driving even though it was night time to keep this sleet/snow from stinging my eyes. It was likely at least 1 and 1/2 hours to the next truck stop before I could fix the problem. Really looked like hell and somewhat embarrassing on this less then 2 year old car.

To this day, I still believe that I got to San Francisco from Chicago in near record time. I don't know how long it took the winner in The Gumball Ralley to cover this distance,,of course they ended up in Santa Monica some such in the LA area. This trip took me just minutes over 28 hours with no stopping for sleep. Car was hardly ever under 110 to 120 across Utah and Nevada. The greatest drive of my life.

Another point of note was this. Even though this car was only 2 years old, it looked 10 years old compared to the Calyfornua Corvettes that I was seeing about me. Only 15 thousand miles and the chrome, suspension, undercarriage just looked rusty and shabby. It looked so bad, the following month I traded for a new 69 big block (390) with air. The convertible top on it never did leak.

Got 2,700 for it, the 69 MSRP'd at just over 6,000, I paid 2,200 difference, it was the end of the 69 model year.
Old 01-16-2010, 07:56 AM
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Jackfit
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Default I am looking for the right latch

Originally Posted by mikey
interested in seeing this solution.. i was planning to design a latch for the center also.. something that bolts into the C2 at the same two screws used for the mirror. the lack of strength in the bow and lack of clamping in the center is definitely the main contributor to this problem!
Hi, I think the mirror holes will support an anchor notch for latch. You do not need a great deal of tension on that spot. Just enough to keep the middle from bowing.

A latch similar to latches on tool boxes will work. I am looking for one that will cosmetically look good.

Jack

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Old 01-16-2010, 02:23 PM
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365GTB4
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This is for Jackfit, I think you can buy a stainless steel latch from McMaster Carr. Polish it and you would be good to go.

This is for Sxrxrnr. The Cannonball record was 27 hr. 31 min from Darrien Connecticut to Redondo Beach Ca. Gurney and Yates with a Daytona Ferrari.
Old 01-16-2010, 02:34 PM
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Default latch for middle of convertible top

Consider the chrome plated locks for sliding patio (glass) doors. It takes up slack well & tight. Good luck Abe G
Old 01-16-2010, 03:11 PM
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Default Thanks for the vendor

Originally Posted by 365GTB4
This is for Jackfit, I think you can buy a stainless steel latch from McMaster Carr. Polish it and you would be good to go.

This is for Sxrxrnr. The Cannonball record was 27 hr. 31 min from Darrien Connecticut to Redondo Beach Ca. Gurney and Yates with a Daytona Ferrari.
I just looked at the McMaster Carr. site. I think I will be able to find the right size.

I will post photos when done

Jack

PS Just ordered the stainless latch with double safety catch. Should have it by end of week. Now if I had my top, I could put it on. The top, 30 years old, custom Mercedes cloth top made for me, lost it's back window due to age and sun. I had a sail maker in Maine sew in a new one, without taking top off frame. Quite a job, but $750 less than a new top.

The old top is still in great shape and I could not see throwing it out for a new one. I drove to the sail maker with my car, showed him the window and asked if he could do it. He said yes, I asked him for a 9/16 socket wrench, took top off in a few moments and left him with it. No top in 8* weather is great for the constitution.
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Last edited by Jackfit; 01-16-2010 at 06:03 PM. Reason: additional material

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