Willcox New Wiper Motor Testing Video
#41
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Please keep in mind.. this needs to have some notes put on it but if you watch this you'll see what causes the clicking noise. I will try to finish this tomorrow.
#42
Another very helpful video, will see if new switch solves the problem.
The ground wire to the motor tested as a good ground with test light and Power Probe. Ground wire was plugged back in the motor connector and various points of motor tested as being grounded.
Disconnected the 123 connector, tested the blue and yellow wire for a a ground. Yellow has one, blue did not. Brown wire has 12v when ignition turned on.
Went under the dash and tested the case of wiper switch, it was grounded. Tested the the tabs on back of the switch, yellow has ground, blue does not.
Tested the continuity of blue wire and it is good.
I will try the test of unplugging the switch and running a ground to each wire to the motor.
The ground wire to the motor tested as a good ground with test light and Power Probe. Ground wire was plugged back in the motor connector and various points of motor tested as being grounded.
Disconnected the 123 connector, tested the blue and yellow wire for a a ground. Yellow has one, blue did not. Brown wire has 12v when ignition turned on.
Went under the dash and tested the case of wiper switch, it was grounded. Tested the the tabs on back of the switch, yellow has ground, blue does not.
Tested the continuity of blue wire and it is good.
I will try the test of unplugging the switch and running a ground to each wire to the motor.
#43
can I purchase one of these 123 connector plastik with terminals from you?
I tried all over Europe so you are my last chance to crank my wiper spare motor on again.
Thanks
#44
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Rose-
I just ran out of gas today.... I'm wore out.. But here is what I do know...
If the motor passed the bench test the only way to create the clicking is to not have the motor grounded.
So..
If you have power on the brown wire using another grounding source to verify it.. unplug the ground from the motor terminal. With your test light clipped on the middle brown wire touch the motor ground. This is the only sure way to verify the motor is grounded.
If it lights up.. I'm lost.
But.. on the bench.. The only way I could get the park switch to click was:
1) no ground on case, ground on yellow and no ground on blue.
2) no ground on case, ground on yellow and ground on blue.
As soon as I hooked up the ground to the case the lick goes away.
I just ran out of gas today.... I'm wore out.. But here is what I do know...
If the motor passed the bench test the only way to create the clicking is to not have the motor grounded.
So..
If you have power on the brown wire using another grounding source to verify it.. unplug the ground from the motor terminal. With your test light clipped on the middle brown wire touch the motor ground. This is the only sure way to verify the motor is grounded.
If it lights up.. I'm lost.
But.. on the bench.. The only way I could get the park switch to click was:
1) no ground on case, ground on yellow and no ground on blue.
2) no ground on case, ground on yellow and ground on blue.
As soon as I hooked up the ground to the case the lick goes away.
#45
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
The issue is if I cut one from a core.. then I have a useless core. I don't think I have any extras but I'll need to know the year of the car and then I'll see if I have a really trashed motor with a good one.
you can email me direct at Willcoxcustomerservice@willcoxcorvette.c om Hope you haven't already don this though.. I've been out since Friday.
Ernie
#46
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Ok... next up!
I put a new switch in the circuit... and started grounding out things pulling wires and the same result. This test was done exactly as if the motor was in the car. There is nothing different about it except for the fact that I did not have the washer pump connection hooked up. You might want to un-plug the washer pump to make sure it is not cooked and causing the issue.
So.. with a good tested motor here are the results:
If the switch is not grounded the motor will do nothing when you turn the switch on.
If the blue wire is broken, you will only have high speed. It will shut off and park.
If the yellow wire is broke, nothing will happen. no click nothing.
If the blue is grounded to the yellow the wiper motor runs on high.
If the ground is removed from the case... again "click" when you turn on the switch.
Now for curiosity sake... I flipped the blue and yellow wires on the switch. The motor went wild.. I actually unplugged it...
The only thing I will not test if is there is power somewhere else on the yellow or the blue wire. Since this could cook my test motor I've elected not to try this.
I have seen the brown hot wire to the heater control hooked up to the back of the gauge cluster in error before and I doubt this is the issue. The oil pressure line turns in to a rather large fuse and you would know this very quickly.
I hope you figure this out.
Willcox
I put a new switch in the circuit... and started grounding out things pulling wires and the same result. This test was done exactly as if the motor was in the car. There is nothing different about it except for the fact that I did not have the washer pump connection hooked up. You might want to un-plug the washer pump to make sure it is not cooked and causing the issue.
So.. with a good tested motor here are the results:
If the switch is not grounded the motor will do nothing when you turn the switch on.
If the blue wire is broken, you will only have high speed. It will shut off and park.
If the yellow wire is broke, nothing will happen. no click nothing.
If the blue is grounded to the yellow the wiper motor runs on high.
If the ground is removed from the case... again "click" when you turn on the switch.
Now for curiosity sake... I flipped the blue and yellow wires on the switch. The motor went wild.. I actually unplugged it...
The only thing I will not test if is there is power somewhere else on the yellow or the blue wire. Since this could cook my test motor I've elected not to try this.
I have seen the brown hot wire to the heater control hooked up to the back of the gauge cluster in error before and I doubt this is the issue. The oil pressure line turns in to a rather large fuse and you would know this very quickly.
I hope you figure this out.
Willcox
#47
Thanks for the over the top help and work on your part
Will try the combinations you went through to compare results. I'm hoping the switch has a bad connection inside of it.
This thread should be in sticky notes with all info it has.
Will try the combinations you went through to compare results. I'm hoping the switch has a bad connection inside of it.
This thread should be in sticky notes with all info it has.
#48
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Thank you, and I hate a mystery on these motors... But I'm sorry.. I don't think the switch can be the issue!
If the switch was bad.. then you'd have an issue on the yellow or blue wire. Neither of which will cause the clicking noise you are hearing.
There is the possibility I missed something but I think I've covered just about everything that could go wrong today.
Variances: Voltage on the wrong wire, an issue with the motor, or an issue with the washer pump.. (feeding voltage where it should not be).
So with this, I'd do as suggested above and disconnect the washer pump, verify the wires for continuity from the switch to the motor, check for voltage on the wrong wire.. and just for giggiles.. I'd run a new ground from the engine to the the motor case.
If the switch was bad.. then you'd have an issue on the yellow or blue wire. Neither of which will cause the clicking noise you are hearing.
There is the possibility I missed something but I think I've covered just about everything that could go wrong today.
Variances: Voltage on the wrong wire, an issue with the motor, or an issue with the washer pump.. (feeding voltage where it should not be).
So with this, I'd do as suggested above and disconnect the washer pump, verify the wires for continuity from the switch to the motor, check for voltage on the wrong wire.. and just for giggiles.. I'd run a new ground from the engine to the the motor case.
#49
Dats a wrap
Took all the wires off and started from scratch as you suggested. Still had the clicking noise going through various combinations
Decided to retest the motor using your excellent video and voila, the motor was not working. Tested it before 2 weeks ago and all was good then, not sure how it can stop working
Anyway, took rubber mallet and gave couple of "gentle" raps to the motor and as you can probably guess, it started working. Wired everything back up and back in business...for a while. Another lesson in working on old cars, go back and recheck your troubleshooting steps.
Decided to retest the motor using your excellent video and voila, the motor was not working. Tested it before 2 weeks ago and all was good then, not sure how it can stop working
Anyway, took rubber mallet and gave couple of "gentle" raps to the motor and as you can probably guess, it started working. Wired everything back up and back in business...for a while. Another lesson in working on old cars, go back and recheck your troubleshooting steps.
#50
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Well I'm glad you got it working.. it was bugging me... The armature may have a burnt spot on it.. that's about all I can figure. Or you may not have had a good ground on the copper ground.
Loved the car pictures today. I have mulled over the idea of doing one of these but I don't seem to have the time now days.
Loved the car pictures today. I have mulled over the idea of doing one of these but I don't seem to have the time now days.
#51
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
ttt
#52
Le Mans Master
Let see if i got this right?
The outer connector is for high speed/ground
The connector in the middle is the power supply to the motor
The connector closest to the firewall is low speed
Am i right?
The outer connector is for high speed/ground
The connector in the middle is the power supply to the motor
The connector closest to the firewall is low speed
Am i right?
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Nope...
With power to the middle terminal and the outer terminal grounded you get high speed.
With power to the middle terminal and the outer terminal and the inner terminal grounded you get low speed. Bot the inner and outer terminals must be grounded to get low speed.
Willcox
With power to the middle terminal and the outer terminal grounded you get high speed.
With power to the middle terminal and the outer terminal and the inner terminal grounded you get low speed. Bot the inner and outer terminals must be grounded to get low speed.
Willcox
#54
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
bump
#55
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Today, we started moving the help and repair, tech pictures and tech videos to the new site. This will give you all a good idea of the things to come on the site.
Here is the link for the wiper motor and embedded in this link is everything associated with the 1963-1967 wiper motor we have published in the last 10 or so years. It's all combined in one link on the main website now which should make it easier to find.
https://willcoxcorvette.com/wiper-mo...ilt-63-67.html
Here is the link for the wiper motor and embedded in this link is everything associated with the 1963-1967 wiper motor we have published in the last 10 or so years. It's all combined in one link on the main website now which should make it easier to find.
https://willcoxcorvette.com/wiper-mo...ilt-63-67.html
#56
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ttt
#57
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ttt
#59
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
ttt