Changing Heads on 327/300 HP 1967
03-07-2010, 11:41 AM
#1
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Changing Heads on 327/300 HP 1967
I am getting ready to change out a couple of improperly dated heads on my 1967 327/300 HP car. I plan to change out all of the rocker arms, ***** and nuts for sure. In addition:
1. Should I also replace all the lifters and push rods while I'm in there?
2. Can I reuse the head bolts? Don't see why not, although I notice they put sealer on them. The bolts in there now look "new".
3. Finally, is there a way to tell/know whether I have hydraulic or solid lifters before I start tearing everything apart?
4. When I get the two matching March 3rd heads to install, I know they will need to be painted Chevy orange. I presume the "finished" surfaces (engine block, intake, and exhaust should NOT be painted orange. Correct? (Just want to make sure before I do it).
Finally, any other things I should look for or check while I'm in there? Thanks.
Kirk
1. Should I also replace all the lifters and push rods while I'm in there?
2. Can I reuse the head bolts? Don't see why not, although I notice they put sealer on them. The bolts in there now look "new".
3. Finally, is there a way to tell/know whether I have hydraulic or solid lifters before I start tearing everything apart?
4. When I get the two matching March 3rd heads to install, I know they will need to be painted Chevy orange. I presume the "finished" surfaces (engine block, intake, and exhaust should NOT be painted orange. Correct? (Just want to make sure before I do it).
Finally, any other things I should look for or check while I'm in there? Thanks.
Kirk
Last edited by 67BETE; 03-07-2010 at 11:43 AM.
03-07-2010, 01:02 PM
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I am getting ready to change out a couple of improperly dated heads on my 1967 327/300 HP car. I plan to change out all of the rocker arms, ***** and nuts for sure. In addition:
1. Should I also replace all the lifters and push rods while I'm in there?
2. Can I reuse the head bolts? Don't see why not, although I notice they put sealer on them. The bolts in there now look "new".
3. Finally, is there a way to tell/know whether I have hydraulic or solid lifters before I start tearing everything apart?
4. When I get the two matching March 3rd heads to install, I know they will need to be painted Chevy orange. I presume the "finished" surfaces (engine block, intake, and exhaust should NOT be painted orange. Correct? (Just want to make sure before I do it).
Finally, any other things I should look for or check while I'm in there? Thanks.
Kirk
1. Should I also replace all the lifters and push rods while I'm in there?
2. Can I reuse the head bolts? Don't see why not, although I notice they put sealer on them. The bolts in there now look "new".
3. Finally, is there a way to tell/know whether I have hydraulic or solid lifters before I start tearing everything apart?
4. When I get the two matching March 3rd heads to install, I know they will need to be painted Chevy orange. I presume the "finished" surfaces (engine block, intake, and exhaust should NOT be painted orange. Correct? (Just want to make sure before I do it).
Finally, any other things I should look for or check while I'm in there? Thanks.
Kirk
2. Yes, you can re-use the head bolts - just clean them up and use a non-hardening sealer (like Permatex #2) on the threads; they go into the water jackets.
3. All '67 small-blocks had hydraulic lifters originally; if you had solid lifters, you'd know it from the noise.
4. Correct - no paint on metal-matching surfaces.
5. Torque the head bolts in three steps to final torque, and use the sequence shown in the Chassis Service Manual on page 6-39 for the heads and intake.
03-07-2010, 01:12 PM
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Thread Starter
Thanks John. I have been reading every resource I can get my hands on and have seen that torquing chart several times. Will do.
Any hints for the gaskets? Which should I use?
Any hints for the gaskets? Which should I use?
03-07-2010, 09:28 PM
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I would look for original spec ones from Felpro....the good stuff. Dennis
Dennis
03-07-2010, 09:47 PM
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I would check the distance from the top of the piston at TDC to the
top surface of the block, then get a head gasket that results in the
piston being no more than .040" from the quench surface of the head.
If the block has not had the deck resurfaced, this will likely be a .015"
thickness gasket.
If the piston is much more than .040" from the head at TDC, you lose
power and at the same time will be more likely to have detonation.
The .040" thick gaskets are for engines where the piston is EXACTLY
FLUSH with the deck surface of the block when the piston is at TDC.
Here's a good explanation:http://www.kb-silvolite.com/article....n=read&A_id=35
top surface of the block, then get a head gasket that results in the
piston being no more than .040" from the quench surface of the head.
If the block has not had the deck resurfaced, this will likely be a .015"
thickness gasket.
If the piston is much more than .040" from the head at TDC, you lose
power and at the same time will be more likely to have detonation.
The .040" thick gaskets are for engines where the piston is EXACTLY
FLUSH with the deck surface of the block when the piston is at TDC.
Here's a good explanation:http://www.kb-silvolite.com/article....n=read&A_id=35
