Frankie the Fink

Got the top back from the vinyl repair guy and I had to lay my cheek down on the headliner to try to see the repair (there was a 3" 'split' when I got the top) and its invisible...he even re-dyed the entire headliner white again (there were some mild stains). Best $40 I've spent in a long time.

I got the front weather strip today and have decided to reuse the P-clips and knurled rivets since they cleaned up so well. Here is the problem...the AIM page shows the P-clips with their side ridges facing outwards (see red arrow); yet in the Glassworks youtube video [IMG]file:///C:/Users/FRANKD%7E1/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot.png[/IMG]it appears the installer is putting them in with the ridges facing the weatherstrip ?!?! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xVWbp...eature=related. Is it my bad eyesight or what ??

wmf62

here's the big 'IF'...

IF the legs will not touch the windshield header when the top is clamped down, then i would put the legs down toward the windshield (or up, depending on your perspective) as the 'legs' will cut into the w/s.

personally, i wouldn't use them at all...
Bill

Frankie the Fink

The P-clips are pretty deep in that rubber channel and even with the legs down (pointing INTO the rubber) there would be an issue of the rivet head hitting the metal windshield frame if things are that tight.

The rivets are so darn short I'm thinking do it like the AIM shows to get the use of most of the rivet's shaft to hold things in. I'll give GlassWorks a call tomorrow....I'll mention your name!

Redbird

I did mine per the drawing. That's the way they were in there for 48 years when I took them out.

John F

firstgear

Frank, stick it in without the rivets etc, see what you think. No one but you will ever know. When the top is on the car the seal is pinched between the top and windshield header. Where is it going to go? No where. When you take it off you will find that the seal will stay in the channel.

vette61

If you want to do it "correctly" do it like the AIM. You already know that the rivets are short, now add the new rubber thickness and IF you turn them the other way, i.e., legs touching the rubber, that will give you less in rivet length. I recently went thru this on my top, believe me you will need as much rivet length as possible to get them to stay in.

wmf62

my HT is the original HT and there has never been rivets/plates holding the w/s in place.... must have been built on a Friday...
Bill

Frankie the Fink

Funny....I believe AZDoug says the same...

Fawndeuce

Frank, mine had what I am almost positive was the original weatherstrip with P clips and rivets. They were installed (and are once again installed) as shown in the AIM with the ridges facing out.



Paul

AZDoug

Yes. No evidence of twist rivets ever installed, i looked at the holes with a loupe when i had the W/S out.

And, I have found life is often much simpler by not flagellating myself doing generally useless things that nobody will ever see or notice.

You *do* have those little brass spiral static collectors inside the front wheel hub dust caps, don't you?? I don't....

Doug

wmf62

Doug (and anyone else..)
do you remember how your ends were originally cut? the last time i replaced it myself i cut the ends square; this is how Glassworks did mine when they reworked the top...



Bill

Frankie the Fink

I can tell you my replacement weatherstrip for the front is 'squared off' on each end for sure.

Fawndeuce

My old weatherstrip was so brittle Bill, the corners had long since broken off. I trimmed my new one based on the way that Glassworks had done yours, I figure they probably know more about these old hardtops than anyone.




Maybe the one you bought Frank had been pre-cut to fit, but my new one was just a length that had been cut square from a roll. I had to trim it a couple of inches anyway to fit.



Paul

Frankie the Fink

Had to trim mine a couple of inches just now too.
Glassworks confirmed via phone call that the rivet plate 'edges' face AWAY from the weatherstrip (just like the AIM shows)...e.g. you should see the 'P' letter on the plate AFTER they are installed. They will also replace the rear weatherstrip for around $1,000 dollars...with the cost of the correct weatherstrip around $250 and the PITA this job is its prob not that bad a price for a professional to do it.

Finished the top this morning and did install the rivets and plates...it just wasn't that much trouble and it kept from bagging and tagging them somewhere for the future.

First pic is the vinyl tear in the headliner, second is after it was repaired yesterday. Third pic is front weatherstrip 'mess' and fourth is with it now freshly replaced. The blue tape is where I have used adhesive to tie the corners of the side weatherstrip into the front piece. All-in-all the top could use some stainless steel buffing later on but looks damn near new. Now to see if it will fit on the car !!!

WHAT DO HARDTOP OWNERS USE TO CLEAN THE PLEXIGLASS WINDOWS ??

AZDoug

Clean them, or de-haze them?

For cleaning, I use a water based wax called FastWax by Presta. It also is recommended for new paint jobs as it does seal the paint, it lets it breath, it also comes off with soap and water.

It also works well on regular galss for cleaning and removing streaks

For de-hazing, Meguires Deep Crystal paint polish works very well.

Doug