coop51

I've never taken one of these apart yet but I'm gonna try it today. My 65's headlamps have been tempermental lately, worked last week, didn't work yesterday. I pulled the firewall connector plug last night, cleaned it and used some tuner control spray. Checked all other connections at the motors and they seemed fine.
Since I'm usually all thumbs, I'm concerned that when I remove the switch from the dash some spring is gonna fly out and I'll never find it. Is there a recommended way to handle these things when repairing them?

62Jeff

Are you asking about the headlight switch, or the headlight up/down switch?

Nothing will fly out of the dash if you remove either from the car.

If you are asking about the headlight switch - it does have a spring loaded slider inside the switch so if you are working on that, be mindful not to let the spring(s) get away.

If you are asking about the headlight up/down switch, I believe there was a post within the past 2 or 3 days that included a link to a document detailing how to rebuild them.

Edit: My mistake, the link I saw simply showed the guts of the switch. Here it is

coop51

Yes, I'm referring to the headlight up/down switch. Thanks.

62Jeff

Cool. As you can see in the photos, nothing magical about the inside.

But, my memory is that the mounting screws that hold the switch to the dash, go through spring nuts which are sort of loose. So when you remove the screws and remove the switch, be on the look out for 2 flat-ish spring nuts that may also fall onto the carpet.

Powershift

Jeff:

Excellent photo and info.

Coop51 also needs to use CARE when removing and installing the switch three-wire electrical connector. It is fragile and prone to breakage. Take you time and use some electrical lubricant spray. Same for reassembly....I think I used a SLIGHT DAB of di-electric grease on the three switch posts to get it installed without harm.

Larry

EDIT: If you break the electrical connector, new ones are available, but require splicing. Also best to disconnect battery during this repair.

babbah

You can't remove the up down switch without loosening and pushing back the headlight on off switch. You must remove the headlight on off **** first by reaching in on the left side of the headlamp on off switch and pressing a small lever in the switch to remove the **** and shaft together. Then you must remove the circular nut the holds the on off switch to the dash. Then just push the entire headlight on off switch back in order to remove the up down switch. Be careful not to loose the 2 flat nuts that holds the switch in place in the dash. They are a ^&*(% to put back in!
I just did the same and the switch still operates the same - no difference, Down works fine - Up you must apply high pressure in up position to bring them up.
Have fun!

coop51

And I thought this was gonna be easy!!

Ron Miller

Have you tried the tuner control spray on the switch as well?? Might be worthwhile to try before attempting to remove, take apart, and clean . . . . .

Shoot it at the crack between the up/down lever and the case, as well as between the crack where the case comes apart. That stuff will find it's way into the smallest of spaces to the points if that is the source of your problems.

67L36Driver

I beg your pardon but I have never had to remove the on/off switch when removeing the rollover switch.

Maybe it's my small hands.

62Jeff

The up/down switch is in a different location on factory A/C cars. I didn't have to remove my headlight switch on my A/C car in order to access the up/down switch.

Perhaps that is the difference?

67L36Driver

L.I.B. Learn sumptin' every day.

karista

Great picture, now what is the trick to get these little clips back in to hold the electrical connector?

67L36Driver

Use your fingurs and push Hard! Make shure the little '****' stick out and catch like they should.

Frankie the Fink

There is not much to that switch - maybe you should be looking at your headlight motors instead.

66jack

If you're not NCRS....put this in and do away with the hassle...

http://www.detroitspeed.com/1963-196...-door-kit.html

rene-paul

Roll over switch carries FULL current to the motors. Pitting/arching on the contacts prohibits FULL current which will be slow or no movement of the headlight buckets. Cleaning and polishing the contacts will help and be the first step. IMHO.
Let us know.

Frankie the Fink

I did that on my split window...freakin' awesome upgrade. The headlghts pop up so fast people in front of the car jump back when I hit the switch now! My headlight doors are actually synchronized better than the white C2 shown in the link above...

I rebuilt the original headlight motors and stored them on the shelf for posterity...

1coolC2

Kinda cool are they not?? Detroit Speed received a SEMA best new product award for those bad boys. One of the best new products released for C2's if I say so myself Great company and quality products. C3 owners will be enjoying this upgrade too!

R/
Jeff

kvndvs69

just wondering how you did the rebuild and how hard I also have a 63 split window and what kinda mods to the car to put in the Detroit light switches thank you Kevin

Frankie the Fink

The original headlight motor rebuild is quite easy and all the parts are available now in repro form. If I had known that going in I might not have done the Detroit Speed deal. Here is an article on rebuilding the motors.

However, the Detroit Speed upgrade is also pretty easy ... the new electronic headlight motors bolt in easily. The tricky part is replacing wires in some of the factory connectors and installing the electronic "brain" under the dash...