C1 Power steering/disk brakes
#22
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St. Jude Donor '07
Mike, John
i have only 2 u-joints and no center bearing support; i would think it impossible to not use a minimum of 2 u-joints due to the relationship of the steering column and the rack unless the steering column was exactly the right length. IF, in my case' the column was 'the exact right length', then the shaft would have hit the exhaust manifold...
if it wasn't for the brake line, i could easily get a finger between the frame and the shaft.
Bill
i have only 2 u-joints and no center bearing support; i would think it impossible to not use a minimum of 2 u-joints due to the relationship of the steering column and the rack unless the steering column was exactly the right length. IF, in my case' the column was 'the exact right length', then the shaft would have hit the exhaust manifold...
if it wasn't for the brake line, i could easily get a finger between the frame and the shaft.
Bill
Last edited by wmf62; 05-17-2010 at 09:19 PM.
#23
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Grebs, I'd be interested in some pictures of the Crane PS installation. A lot will depend on the codition of my stock front-end. I would prefer to keep it and add disks and power steering, but I haven't torn everything down yet. I've fought this front end on my last 61 that was worn out beyond realistic repair. We'll see this summer when it all comes apart.
Thanks, Zeke
Thanks, Zeke
#24
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Grebs, I'd be interested in some pictures of the Crane PS installation. A lot will depend on the codition of my stock front-end. I would prefer to keep it and add disks and power steering, but I haven't torn everything down yet. I've fought this front end on my last 61 that was worn out beyond realistic repair. We'll see this summer when it all comes apart.
Thanks, Zeke
Thanks, Zeke
#25
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St. Jude Donor '07
Grebs, I'd be interested in some pictures of the Crane PS installation. A lot will depend on the codition of my stock front-end. I would prefer to keep it and add disks and power steering, but I haven't torn everything down yet. I've fought this front end on my last 61 that was worn out beyond realistic repair. We'll see this summer when it all comes apart.
Thanks, Zeke
Thanks, Zeke
http://www.cranescorvette.com/corvet...em_1956-62.htm
Bill
#26
Le Mans Master
Bill, that looks like the same pic I saw in reply #9 of the old Martz thread. I can see you obviously don't use the old style front yoke mount, is that your side engine mount I see just above and a bit aft of the lower a-arm bolt? Was the side mount part of the TCI kit or something you added on your own? It looks like your steering shaft passes 'over' that side mount with no interference.
Mike T.
Mike T.
#27
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St. Jude Donor '07
Bill, that looks like the same pic I saw in reply #9 of the old Martz thread. I can see you obviously don't use the old style front yoke mount, is that your side engine mount I see just above and a bit aft of the lower a-arm bolt? Was the side mount part of the TCI kit or something you added on your own? It looks like your steering shaft passes 'over' that side mount with no interference.
Mike T.
Mike T.
the side motor mounts are probably pretty generic, these were furnished by the guy who put the 'package' together for me. this is a pic of the passenger side because it shows the best view of the mount and the bracket. the bracket was fit and welded into place while the engine was still supported by the front mount.
Bill
#28
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The notching is probably because of the location of the rack. My rack and fittings are all the way up against the frame mounting pad. I actually had to clearance the mount pad for the power steering lines to fit. I think the Jim Meyer setup moves the rack further forward (by about 2") than the TCI set up.
#29
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Bill,
Yes, remember that we used an added stub shaft and connecting collar to lengthen the steering col. and get the correct angle past the exhaust manifold. But it is also possible that using the stub shaft helped clear the frame as well. That was what I was trying to figure out - why Cefolar had to notch his frame.
John
Yes, remember that we used an added stub shaft and connecting collar to lengthen the steering col. and get the correct angle past the exhaust manifold. But it is also possible that using the stub shaft helped clear the frame as well. That was what I was trying to figure out - why Cefolar had to notch his frame.
John
#30
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The notching is probably because of the location of the rack. My rack and fittings are all the way up against the frame mounting pad. I actually had to clearance the mount pad for the power steering lines to fit. I think the Jim Meyer setup moves the rack further forward (by about 2") than the TCI set up.
John
#31
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BUT - I am still saying my rack unit it is pinned up against the inside of the frame rail. The ones in the picture above look like they have much more space between the steering line connections and the frame rail than mine does.
#32
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Cefolar,
I don't see how the vertical position would help the need for clearance of the steering shaft to the frame. Yes, there was some small clearance (3/16") at the rear tabs of the crossmember that needed to be shimmed / filled.
Bill's has been on the road for a couple of years now, and seems to work pretty well.
My point to fellow forum members (who are interested in the TCI conversion) is that I don't like notching frames, and there are alternatives that you may not of explored before doing it. If you are convinced that was the only way and happy with it, so be it.
Good luck,
Plasticman
I don't see how the vertical position would help the need for clearance of the steering shaft to the frame. Yes, there was some small clearance (3/16") at the rear tabs of the crossmember that needed to be shimmed / filled.
Bill's has been on the road for a couple of years now, and seems to work pretty well.
My point to fellow forum members (who are interested in the TCI conversion) is that I don't like notching frames, and there are alternatives that you may not of explored before doing it. If you are convinced that was the only way and happy with it, so be it.
Good luck,
Plasticman
#33
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I had no plans of notching the frame either, nor do I like to do it. But for the Jim Meyers set-up you either need to notch, or use their intermediate joint.
#34
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I hear ya - maybe I wasn't clear, my set-up is the one from Jim Meyers, not from TCI. So my communication to the members is that the Jim Meyers one either requires an intermediate bearing - or notching the frame. I'm not sure if they use a different rack than the TCI one, or their bolt in crossmember locates the rack in a different position than the TCI one.
I had no plans of notching the frame either, nor do I like to do it. But for the Jim Meyers set-up you either need to notch, or use their intermediate joint.
I had no plans of notching the frame either, nor do I like to do it. But for the Jim Meyers set-up you either need to notch, or use their intermediate joint.
Now I understand.........
Thanks,
John