dkjfdx

I've started to notice a squeak coming out of my rear driver's side wheel/axle area. It's a rhythmic sound when I'm driving the first mile or so, then it goes away.

If I push in on clutch (take power off the train), it stops until I let out the clutch again. It's hard to diagnose, since I'm driving at the time.

To eliminate the tire and wheel possibility, I rotated the wheels - sound still coming from driver's rear. That leaves the rear wheel bearing or u-joints.

I'm thinking of buying new U-joints and replacing to see if it is there.

But does anyone have any ideas how to diagnose first without replacing U-joints?

MikeM

Pull the half shaft out and move the u-joint cups with your hands. If they feel like they rotate like they're still good and greasy, they okay. Then, grab the top of the tire and try to move it in/out more than a tiny bit and/or spin the wheel and listen for noise.

If the wheel goes in/out more than a little (how much is that?) or you hear a grinding noise when you spin the wheel, you've likely found your problem.

If you don't find anything in the half shafts or bearings, go to the driveshaft next and check those u-joints.

Bluestripe67

Look at each U-joint first before you take them apart. If you see reddish brown dust around them, you NEED u-joints, as this is a sign of them being dry and rusting. Dennis
PS, check you lug nuts. Don't ask me how I know about this, 'cause it's embarrising. Dennis

out2kayak

Could it be from pushing the accelerator pedal too hard?

Must have bald tyres by now.



-- Joe

dkjfdx

OK, before I'm reading the shop manual to pull the half shaft out. I haven't done this before, but this is what it looks like I have to do.

Disconnect the inboard u-brackets from that u-joint and then unbolt the outboard u-joint and slip the shaft inboard off the splines of the spindle.

Apparently there is a cotter pin, spindle nut and washer that I need to remove after I pull out the half shaft - I can't see them right now. Then I can pull out the spindle, check it and grease/replace as req'd. I'll also check both sets of u-joints as mentioned above.

Is that it?

Reason I'm asking is that the manual discusses marking camber cam and bolt in relation to bracket. I'm not sure why I need to do that.

JohnZ

It's usually necessary to rotate the cam bolt so the strut rod pushes the trailing arm fully outboard to provide clearance to remove the half-shaft so you can inspect the U-joints. Remove the U-bolts from the yokes at the inboard end, and remove the four bolts that attach the outboard flange to the spindle flange. Leave the spindle alone.

Unless you've done all of this before and have all of the special tools required, you DON'T want to remove the spindle nut and try to remove the spindle; you'll be way over your head - leave that to a shop with the tools and expertise to do it right.

dkjfdx

So, if I wanted to pack and grease the spidle bearing surfaces, I should have someone with the tools do it? Or is there a grease fitting somewhere I can access?

AOS_L79

My rear driver's side squeak turned out to be the wheel bearing. If they've never been repacked, you've got 46 year old grease in there. Don't drive it much until you're certain because you can wreck the spindle if the bearings fail completely.

Ron Miller

You should have someone do it if it needs doing. Most folks use Van Steel or Bair's, both very good. If they need greasing, they probably also need new bearings. In any event, they have to be pressed apart, greased, and pressed back together with the proper clearances in order to do the job properly, not an easy task.