LS Midyear Conversion
#1
Instructor
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Member Since: Jan 2009
Location: Rockwall, TX
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LS Midyear Conversion
I am thinking hard about dropping an LS based motor in my 64 coupe. I have done a lot of mods on many cars over the years, but would like some tips on this conversion. If anyone has pictures or experience, all help would be appreciated. (Radiator, exhaust manifolds, headers, transmission options auto or manual preferred, flywheel, shifter modifications?) Thanks, Mark
#2
Safety Car
I have done a couple of LS cars. I like the auto trans, so the 4L65E trans is my trans of choice for the midyear. You can go to Shiftworks and they will rework a stock Powerglide C2 shifter to work on the 4L trans and it will look stock. LS2 and 3 Corvette exhaust manifolds will fit nice in the midyear and will save some bucks on the headers. Dewitt makes radiators with the smaller necks used by the LS. This is a nice choice of engines for a NOM motored car, but it ain't cheap. I have never found a stock serpentine drive that works well on either a C1 or C2, so you are locked into buying an aftermarket setup. Standard vacuum brake boosters will not clear the Fuel rail covers, so you will either need to use a small.dual diaphragm unit, or go with a Hydroboost setup. I have started using Hydroboost setups only, as I was dissatisfied with the braking from the dual vacuum unit.
Here are some photo albums, feel free to browse through them:
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-8/339303/
Regards, John McGraw
Here are some photo albums, feel free to browse through them:
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2003-8/339303/
Regards, John McGraw
Last edited by John McGraw; 09-09-2010 at 03:33 PM.
#4
Burning Brakes
I will be starting on my LS conversion in November and will post a thread as it progresses, It is a lower budget, iron block 6.0 that has been mildly enhanced, I will post different parts that I use along with unseen obstructions. Goal is 30 day turn around, car is a everyday driver.
John McGraw has been around a long time and I wish I had some of his knowledge, If he post's something, I am reading it.
R.J.
John McGraw has been around a long time and I wish I had some of his knowledge, If he post's something, I am reading it.
R.J.
#5
Melting Slicks
I think the c-3 guys have a running thread on LS conversions on their forum. Since the chassis is the same, much of it should apply to C-2s. Check out their forum.
Harry
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...directory.html
Harry
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...directory.html
Last edited by 66since71; 09-09-2010 at 07:23 PM. Reason: Link
#7
Burning Brakes
I think probably a 5/16 (90 degree elbow, drill a hole on the top side of the tank and weld it in. Rock valley and some others make really nice tanks, but 700 plus dollars for the tank is pricey.
#8
Burning Brakes
I think the c-3 guys have a running thread on LS conversions on their forum. Since the chassis is the same, much of it should apply to C-2s. Check out their forum.
Harry
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...directory.html
Harry
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-t...directory.html
#9
Burning Brakes
I am putting an FI unit into my 63'. I plan on drilling a hole in the bottom of the sending unit opposite the out-flow and welding in the 5/16 elbow there. I have heard it is better to return the fuel to the bottom of the tank so you don't produce air bubbles and it can easily be converted back by simply replacing the sending unit.
#10
Burning Brakes
You may have something, I looked at that as well, but on the fuel cell on the blower car, the return line is on top? I don't know why, it came that way.
#13
Melting Slicks
I just did this exact conversion. '03 Lq4 [6.0L], drive by wire. I stayed with my muncie/hurst 'cause I like them. The only supprise is that all of the engine mount plates that say that they put the engine in the stock location is BS. They ALL put the engine 1" foreword - Including the super duper billit Scoggins Dickey units. Don't ask me why that is. All I know is that with them your clutch linkage doesn't line up, you will need a longer driveshaft and the shifter will be in the wrong place. That was real nice to find out after I modified my hooker sidepipe headers. If you want your engine in the stock location I think that the Trans Dapt 1" set back plates will work. I found those after I had mine mounted. I also silver soldered a fuel return line into the fuel sender. Many guys are using the late model Corvette fuel filter/regulator assembly but I like the return line idea. I'm also using the stock intake/alternator which will not fit under a stock hood. Luckily I have an aftermarket L88 hood that just clears everything. I have driven the car many miles this summer including a couple thousand mile road trips.
#15
Safety Car
When people first started doing these swaps, they used the early F body setup which used a regulator up front by the fuel rail and it needed two lines all the way from front to rear. The Corvette filter/regulator can be mounted right next to the tank, so the return line is only a few inches long.
I have used both Rock Valley and Rick's, and they both build great tanks. I have to pay sales tax because Rick's tanks is in my state, but I still do business with them because their customer service is so great. I am using a Rick's tank on my current project, a 67 Chevelle wagon with a 6 speed auto and a LS2. I really like a tank that has the pump inside the tank. The pump runs almost dead silent and it will last almost forever due to being cooled by being submerged in fuel. I did a car years ago with a Aeromotive external pump and it was noisy as hell! I will never use another external pump again.
Regards, John McGraw
Last edited by John McGraw; 09-10-2010 at 10:51 AM.
#16
Safety Car
[QUOTE=00fxd;1575278994]. The only supprise is that all of the engine mount plates that say that they put the engine in the stock location is BS. They ALL put the engine 1" foreword - Including the super duper billit Scoggins Dickey units. QUOTE]
Yep, that is why I make my own plates from billet aluminum. The first car I built, I used some S&P plates, but after I saw how simple they were, I just made my own. I can build a set in about 2 hours and that beats paying close to $100 for a pair and I can make them exactly like I want!
Regards, John McGraw
Yep, that is why I make my own plates from billet aluminum. The first car I built, I used some S&P plates, but after I saw how simple they were, I just made my own. I can build a set in about 2 hours and that beats paying close to $100 for a pair and I can make them exactly like I want!
Regards, John McGraw
#18
Safety Car
Thanks Don,
As you can see, I have a wide range of interest in cars from correct NCRS type cars to full blown resto-mods. I'd love to do this for a living, but I would probably starve to death. This stuff really helps me unwind after a stressful day at work!
Regards, John McGraw
As you can see, I have a wide range of interest in cars from correct NCRS type cars to full blown resto-mods. I'd love to do this for a living, but I would probably starve to death. This stuff really helps me unwind after a stressful day at work!
Regards, John McGraw
#20
Le Mans Master
Thanks Don,
As you can see, I have a wide range of interest in cars from correct NCRS type cars to full blown resto-mods. I'd love to do this for a living, but I would probably starve to death. This stuff really helps me unwind after a stressful day at work!
Regards, John McGraw
As you can see, I have a wide range of interest in cars from correct NCRS type cars to full blown resto-mods. I'd love to do this for a living, but I would probably starve to death. This stuff really helps me unwind after a stressful day at work!
Regards, John McGraw
If you were doing it for a living it wouldn't be fun anymore....keep doing what you're doing
Don