Plasticman

My convertible top does not seat properly to the W/S header only on the pass. side. The pass. side window is at full lift (window adjustments are all the way up), and the side window does not contact the rubber weather stripping at the top, since the top is raised on that side. From the front, I can visibly see that the top is higher on the pass. side by about 1/4". Have looked for interference, etc. but don't see a clear reason for this. Have tried paper strips on top of the W/S header, and then clamping the top over them, and then pulled on each strip to determine where it is tight (only at the end curvature). The pass. side end curvature of the top header appears to be stopping the top from coming any further down. Also, the top guide pin on the pass. side barely makes it into the header slot (as though the slot is too far towards the pass. side - or to put it another way, the distance between the driver's side pin hole and the pass. side slot is too far apart).

This all leads me to believe that the W/S header is spread too far apart, and yet the W/S header chrome moulding end gaps are only about 1/16" wide, and the window & weather stripping are tight. And each door front chrome post do not bow out (I would expect that one or both would be bowing outward if the W/S header was too "wide").

I did replace the Windshield weather stripping last fall, and the convert. top prior to that (with new top weather stripping) but this condition was the same before I did all that. I was hoping for a change, but I did not see any change at all. This is about the 4th time I have looked at fixing this!

I am thinking of making an offset guide pin for the driver's side, that would center the top header better to the W/S header (to better match the curvature of the top header to the W/S header). I guess my next step is to remove the driver's side guide pin and see if the fit is any better (I'll try that tomorrow morning).

Any one else have this problem or any suggestions?

Thanks,
Plasticman

Plasticman

Removed the driver's side guide pin this morning. No help. The pass. side still sit too high.

Any thoughts out there?

Plasticman

INMYBLOOD

I wish I could help but am behind you on this. I have been working on the doors and want to do the top and eventually the windshield seals. I was just noticing it seams like my rears bow is getting tighter. It has always had a gap now it is starting to bend the rear bow where the clamp pulls on it. Back to the header I too noticed I had to push down on the passenger side to get it to go in the hole and clamp. Althouh I think it is sealed nicley now. It will latch with the pins almost in the holes and I believe has been overlooked many times. Hence the ocassional leek. It seems it always rains cats and dogs when I go to a show:rolleyes:

My questions stem around the windshield. Being that I just worked on the doors and door posts. I could only get the door posts to fit satisfactorly not perfect. Now is it possable the windshield in not in the center? or square to the center line of the car? Or is it just in how much "fitting" you are willing to do with the doors? These are the things I am looking forward to finding out. Thanks.


[Modified by INMYBLOOD, 11:33 AM 4/12/2002]

solidaxles&elkys

I can only offer one suggestion to get a better fit to the w/s side, i put new roll-pins in to the latches to tighten them up. this helped some up on the w/s side but i have a question a bout the back window and its fit. when i put my top up (not too often) the rear window weather stripping does not even touch the rear decklid. the top had been redone long before i got the car and it looks great so i do not want to mess with it too much but is there any fix for this? doses it just need to stretch out? there is almost a 1/4 in. gap all the way around. any insight would be great.
Thanks
E.P.

Plasticman

INMYBLOOD,

I can't help you with the doors, since mine were perfect to begin with. But I would expect that aligning the doors to the body (level and gaps match as best as possible), and then worry about the side windows and windshield alignment next.

As for the rear bow, I found that the cont. top mounting brackets (the one on each side that are outboard - I think the 2 brackets that are inboard are used to "tension" the side rails upward, at least that is how I see it) can be realigned up and down without affecting the fore/aft fit. That sounds like the source of your problems.

Solidaxles&elkys: I think this is the same situation as INMYBLOOD has (rear bow to high). Try realigning these two plates downward.

Note guys, I only play with these brackets when the top is attached and latched to the front windshield header. That keeps the fore/aft alignment "close". Once I change the brackets' alignment, I go back and check to see if the front latches and guide pins are still in agreement, check the side window fit, and then the rear bow is latched and checked. Finally, I stow the top to make sure nothing there is fouled up. I just did this a few minutes ago, and was able to get the front pass. side down a little more at the curvature end, but I swear that the gap further towards the pass. middle got bigger! I have managed to get the guide pins so that they "drop in", but that gap on the pass. side "bothers" me! (I know if I am ever caught in gusher, the gushing will be all over my passenger).

Let me know if this helps. Sounds like we are all learning as we go.




[Modified by Plasticman, 6:58 PM 4/13/2002]

Plasticman

Anyone else out there in forumland (with a C1) that can help guide me on my problem with the top not fitting properly to the windshield header?

Or at least tell me "that they all do that"!

Plasticman