1966 dash lights
#1
1966 dash lights
I am rewiring my 66 vette and read in the forum that it would be good to replace my 1816 bulbs with 1817 bulbs. I cannot find anyone that has the bulb # 1817 Napa only list the stock 1816 bulb. Can anyone help with this one.
#2
Safety Car
Here is info on brighter bulbs ===> Click Here
Note: They will draw more amp's --- I had previously upgraded to 100 amp alternator so I did not have any problems.
George
Note: They will draw more amp's --- I had previously upgraded to 100 amp alternator so I did not have any problems.
George
Last edited by Black_Magic; 02-28-2011 at 04:35 PM.
#7
Tech Contributor
If you have factory A/C, your panel lamp circuit is taxed by an additional 0.66 amps for 2 more panel lamps around the clock area. In any event, watch out for blown fuses when you upgrade the bulbs.
#9
Racer
Member Since: Jan 2009
Location: Cuyahoga Falls Ohio
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1817 where ?
Well after pulling out my glove box, console side panels, to get to my
dead heater core I thought it would be a good time to clean up the
clock. Two clips, two bulb sockets, and a power lead and it was out.
Saw this posting on using 1817 bulbs instead of the stock 1816's and
started to look for them. Only able to find 1816 at the third auto store
I visited, and none on the web.
Where did you fiind the 1817's ??
Thanks
dead heater core I thought it would be a good time to clean up the
clock. Two clips, two bulb sockets, and a power lead and it was out.
Saw this posting on using 1817 bulbs instead of the stock 1816's and
started to look for them. Only able to find 1816 at the third auto store
I visited, and none on the web.
Where did you fiind the 1817's ??
Thanks
#10
Race Director
Member Since: Jan 2002
Location: Close to DC
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C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified 2020
I got my 1817 bulbs from Atlanta Light Bulb Co. 888-988-2892 and on the internet Atlantalightbulb.com $35-40 for what you need. Dennis
#11
Race Director
Yep that's where I got mine from.. Works good and last a long time!! The difference is grand.. I can actually see my gauges at night..
#12
Melting Slicks
I only changed out the 1816 bulbs that light the cluster instruments. I didn't change out the 1816's that were in the turn signals or over by the clock. Make sure you buy one or two extra just in case you get a factory defect......and bench test all the 1817 bulbs before you install them......I used a 9v battery.
#13
Racer
Member Since: Jan 2009
Location: Cuyahoga Falls Ohio
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1817
Thanks Guys !
Will call and order today....
I haven't said this in a while but this is the best forum... makes
working/restoring an old 'vette enjoyable verses frustration.
Thanks again !
Will call and order today....
I haven't said this in a while but this is the best forum... makes
working/restoring an old 'vette enjoyable verses frustration.
Thanks again !
#15
Safety Car
1893s are only 2 candlepower. Those, in fact are the original spec. instrument bulbs. 1816s are 3 cp and were specified for the clock and the radio lamp. 1817s are 4cp. Atlanta light bulb is the ONLY place I can find that sells 1817s.
If you don't want to go the 1817 route, you can substitute 1414s, which are also 4 cp and last a whole lot longer than the 1817s. Plus you can order these from a bunch of on line stores (www.bulbtown.com).
Funny to see this post today. Last night I tore my l cluster apart to clean out 12 years of accumulated film on the inside of the gauge glass, and replace some of the older, darkened 1816s with a couple of 1414s and a couple of judiciously placed 1416s (these are 6 cp) so the top of the fuel and temp gauges are just as brightly lit as everything else in the cluster. The 1416s in the clock are the bomb. You can actually see it even with tired old half blind eyes like I have. I'm running a 10 amp fuse in the instrument lamp circuit. No problems whatsoever.
Unless you insisted on putting in a boom box stereo, or you have 100 watt headlights, a stock alternator is plenty.
If you don't want to go the 1817 route, you can substitute 1414s, which are also 4 cp and last a whole lot longer than the 1817s. Plus you can order these from a bunch of on line stores (www.bulbtown.com).
Funny to see this post today. Last night I tore my l cluster apart to clean out 12 years of accumulated film on the inside of the gauge glass, and replace some of the older, darkened 1816s with a couple of 1414s and a couple of judiciously placed 1416s (these are 6 cp) so the top of the fuel and temp gauges are just as brightly lit as everything else in the cluster. The 1416s in the clock are the bomb. You can actually see it even with tired old half blind eyes like I have. I'm running a 10 amp fuse in the instrument lamp circuit. No problems whatsoever.
Unless you insisted on putting in a boom box stereo, or you have 100 watt headlights, a stock alternator is plenty.