Vettin08

Ok, to recap, last week, wifey and I saw a '66 coupe at a car show that was for sale. The owner purports it to be an all original survivor, numbers matching 327/300, powerglide, PS, PB, A/C, PW, knockoffs. I finally got to test drive it today.

Being this was only my second ride in a midyear ever (the first being in 1987), and my first time to drive one, I was expecting a rougher ride than what it turned out to be. It rode much smoother than I expected it to, so much so that I almost expected to see some suspension mods under the car. The steering and brakes were good, though it did drift a bit to the right, there may have been a slope on the road, I'm not sure. The brakes were nice and linear, but had a bit of a squeak in them when you first got on them. Transmission shifted it's one time just fine . A/C was pretty cool, didn't run it long enough to see how cold it got, but it definitely worked, though the fan speed switch seemed to have some lag in it, is that normal? Headlights worked fine, I hadn't noticed the two switches for the motors and the lights, and thought briefly that it was an aftermarket workaround for some electrical problem, but have since learned otherwise. The only obvious bad things about the car is the missing spare tire rack (and tire obviously) and some paint bubbles (which are noted in a few of the pictures).

My video camera died for some reason, so no video of the idle, but I got tons of pics. I'll post some, and this is where I need your help. If anyone sees anything really right, or really wrong in any of the pictures, please post below.

So without further adieu, let the pix begin...

Exterior


Rear Quarter


Interior


Door Panel


Dash


Kids Zone


327/300










A/C window sticker


A few of the paint flaws...

A star in the hood...


Paint bubble down at the point of the "stinger", below the gas cap


A few along the top of the drivers side rear fender




Engine numbers, decodes as the engine being built on 4/29/66, car built sometime in May of '66.


Front to back


Left front suspension, other side is same condition


Right rear suspension, other side is same condition






Rear end


Rear, w/ missing spare tire equipment


Best ones I got of the frame rails






We didn't pull the valve covers off, but this is the casting on the heads


Incredibly, I forgot to get a picture of the trim tag. The owner has no documentation on the car, he took it in trade for a hot rod he built. So let's hear the thoughts, observations, and most importantly, what's she worth??

Nowhere Man

nothing really stands out. i would not call it a survivor. looks to have had a over haul some time in its life. that is not a bad thing if you want to drive it. its only worth what you are willing to pay. and really the only thing that is holing this car back is the auto.

62Jeff

Some random thoughts...

• Pretty car
• At first blush most things look to be generally correct
• Master cylinder caps are incorrect
• Radiator is a replacement
• Rear strut rods appear to be adjustable, so an aftermarket upgrade
• I'd be worried about why the paint is cracking that significantly
• Frame appears to be in good shape
• The blue overspray on the chassis suggests any suspension/brake work that may have been done is older than the paint job
• Seems like a decent car, but in need of paint

jimgessner

Looks like a decent original "Body on restored car" Chassis is original, missing front splash shields, has replacement rear spring and adjustabe VETTE BRAKES rear strut rods, which was an old DICK GULDSTRAND design used in the 60's for race cars. Car has muffler shop home made exhaust with FLOW MASTER mufflers.

The air compressor is a service replacement. The radiator I think is a brass replacement, and not the original aluminum unit. Need a better picture to be sure, especially of the date code and part number on top left.

Missing tire tub and spare can be found on eBay, but they are getting pricy.

Engine code is correct for a mid May 1966 production, and the vin number and stamp on the pad looks real and original. The 462 head, D186= April 18, 1966, which fits the enfine F429HO April 29, 66 assembly date.

How was the body? Any underbody damage to the inner fenders?

I know of two twins for sale, asking in $55000 area. I think today cash is king. Will 45 buy it?

62Jeff

The car with VIN 22931 was built on May 31, 1966 according to the C2 Birthday calculator. So the engine precedes the vehicle build date as expected.
http://www.stl-vettes.com/65Vette/bday.htm

dahogan

If I were the seller, I would take that in a New York minute.

Vettin08

I'll answer a few in order...

The auto is actually something we're looking for, wifey doesn't like clutches.

I noticed the strut rods in the pictures too, didn't notice it at the time, would agree that they are replacement.

The radiator thing is interesting. Not that it's unexpected to be replaced after 45 years, but good to know nonetheless.

The deal w/ the paint, not sure, and neither is the owner. He suspects that there was some sort of primer/sealer that either wasn't put down, or was put down incorrectly. Not sure how old the paint is, but other than those defects, the quality is very very nice.

The body is very straight, I noticed no obvious signs of work. I didn't get into it from underneath too much, but from what I could see, there was no obvious evidence of repair. It was very straight though.

Is the rust on the a-arms and rear suspension "normal" for this age? It appeared to be surface rust to me, and nothing seemed too chewed up, but I'm so used to seeing yall's mint condition undercarriages, that I'm not sure what I'm looking at.

As far as price goes, what would you say if I told you he was asking 38.5?

EDIT: As far as the mufflers go, I'm not opposed to flowmasters per se, but on this particular car, the original style would be going back on, the flows are just too raw for this car, which is set up as more of a cruiser.

jimgessner

$38.5 is very fair in todays market, especially for an air conditioned car that works. The rear spring was also replaced as the part number shows. That being said, the rear suspension has been repaired which shows care. That are is the last to touched, as most people do the 'pretty' first.

I will tell you one thing, the reason the spare tire tub is NOT there is due to the exhaust. Someone sent it to the shop for mufflers and pipes before putting the spare tub back up. Once retuned they found out it would not fit. Ask the dealer if you can reach the selller he got the car from. He may still have the tub, and spare

mashinter

You need to pull the glovebox and check the birdcage.
Check around the front hinges and door latch pillar too.

Vettin08

Yep, need to do those things when I go back for sure. Thanks :-)

62Jeff

1000% percent. (providing birdcage is good and the TRIM and VIN tags align with how the car is presented)

Vettin08 - FYI jimgessner is one of the most trusted and respected experts in the business of buying/selling old corvettes. His word is gold here (as far as I'm concerned).

dahogan

$300 to $600 for an expert. You are lucky, you live in Texas where there are a lot of C2 owners. Hire one of them to inspect this corvette b/c pics dont tell everything and you dont seem to be an expert yourself. Its a base motor w/ auto and 90% of wanta- be C2's owners want at least a 4 speed w/ more power so the demand for this car isnt high. I understand paying more for a car that one really wants, but get an expert to check it out and if there are no issues: well negociate.

Dan Hampton

I think it looks like a pretty solid driver, all in all. One thing about P/G cars--and I admit not being a big fan but understand your reasons--is that, as a rule, they do not find themselves being abused or modified like many of the higher performance models. I knew two people growing up who had P/G C2s as new cars and they were a surgeon and woman who owned an ad agency.

I wouldn't worry about the paint. A few flaws but if it was perfect you would find yourself being overly protective. Perfect paint is a two edged sword. See if $35K won't seal the deal. But I agree with Jeff, check out the birdcage before any paper changes hands.

DAHogan's point is a good one, too. Base motor, P/G cars are at the bottom of the food chain and demand is not nearly as robust for them as 4-speed cars. Consider that in your calculus when negoitiating. It appears you have done your due diligence on this. Good luck.

Vettin08

Yeah, the 300hp/powerglide isn't a problem for me, because I have my 435net/6spd to keep me warm at night . But as a weekend/date night cruiser and occasional show car, it's just fine w/ us. Will check out the birdcage when wifey and I go back for her drive.

Bruce Wayne

This is ultra important. If frame and cage are bad all you have is a parts car.

Bill Lacy

If I were judging that eng pad I would let her fly. I think that pad looks GREAT. If I was selling this car I would ask 45k and hold out for 42. Good luck and I hope you and wife get it.
Bill

C2Dan

This canard is repeated over and over again on the Forum. As far as I know, there is no evidence to back it up (auction results, price guides, etc.). You'd be amazed how many guys in the mid-year demographic have a bad left knee and don't want to deal with a clutch, especially in areas where the roads are jammed even on weekends.

KS69Coupe

Buy it - looks like a pretty good value to me. Few minor things but all in all looks like a great car. Price seems very fair to me.

Dan Hampton

Perhaps I can recommend a good orthopedist.

SupremeDeluxe

It looks like there is more rust INSIDE the frame than I would expect for a native southern car. At some time someone painted the outside of the frame, but looking inside the key holes will tell more.

It's a nice, solid-appearing driver in very good colors. Make absolutely sure the air works properly; this one has been converted to R-134a but still has the STV valve, so don't be surprised if it doesn't get very cold. The A/C systems on these cars are expensive to diagnose and repair. Few mechanics know how to work on them. Also, as stated by others, take a good hard look at the bottom of the windshield frame and A-pillars. Nearly all of them have at least some surface rust here, but heavy rust can be death to one of these cars.

If all the above checks out, I'd try to get it for $35-36K and call it good.