C1 & C2 Corvettes General C1 Corvette & C2 Corvette Discussion, Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Project Builds, Restorations

'67 SB - why won't it re-start when warmed up

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-30-2011, 05:08 PM
  #1  
pchalpin
Racer
Thread Starter
 
pchalpin's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2005
Location: Woburn Massachusetts
Posts: 270
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default '67 SB - why won't it re-start when warmed up

Hello All:

The basics: '67 406 CI SB, Rebuilt Holley 3310-2, Pertronix


Last October car ran fine to a cruise night. Stayed about a half hour, when I decided to leave, car would not start. Engine was still pretty warm at this point. It Cranked fine, had gas flowing, checked for spark (which was there but not super strong) but would not fire. After a half hour of off and on checking stuff, more cranking and not firing, I gave up and took the next hour off.

Engine had cooled significantly by this time. I decided to try it again to see if I could get home. Got back in the car after the hour, and turned the key. It fired up instantly. I mean instantly. Ran great all the way home. I put the car away for the winter at that point.

Took the car out yesterday for a Spring test run and it was great. Started great, ran great, re-started great several times, no issues at all.

Went out again this morning. It started instantly. Stopped to get a coffee, it stated instantly again. Stopped at a friends to drink the coffees for about 45 minutes.

Went to leave, no start. Cranked like crazy, gas flowed, but would not fire. Engine was still warm at this point.

So we took his car to a show and after 4 hours got back to his house. My engine was good and cold by then and I decided to give mine one more try. Turned the key, it fired instantly, and, again, I mean instantly. And this thing runs really great once it starts.

It starts instantly when the motor is cold, and always has. It won't re-start when the motor is warm without essentially totally cooling down. This is new.

Where do I start?

Thanks Guys and Girls

Peter
Old 04-30-2011, 05:15 PM
  #2  
Frankie the Fink
Team Owner

 
Frankie the Fink's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,062
Received 7,082 Likes on 4,736 Posts
Army

Default

Sounds like classic 'heat soak' to me...with the car off for a while the underhood temperature rises and the gas may flow...but it percolates inside the carb resulting in a 'no-start' until everything cools down.
Old 04-30-2011, 05:55 PM
  #3  
pchalpin
Racer
Thread Starter
 
pchalpin's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2005
Location: Woburn Massachusetts
Posts: 270
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Thanks for your reply.

I do have a Holley heat shield under the carb cause I thought I had that problem three years ago. Had no problems even when it was 90 degrees after I installed the shield.

Also, that October day it was 40 degrees, and today it was 50 degrees, both days with zero humidity. And I had the carb rebuilt last November after I put the car away for the winter. Could under the hood really get that hot with those weather conditions? I have no clue.

But, and I'm hoping you are correct, since I already have the heat shield installed, what else can I do? Edelbrock?

Thanks again.

Peter
Old 04-30-2011, 06:16 PM
  #4  
Frankie the Fink
Team Owner

 
Frankie the Fink's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,062
Received 7,082 Likes on 4,736 Posts
Army

Default

I'm in unknown territory on a C2, and those ambient temps sound pretty low to have the sort of problem you describe....but the giveaway is how easy the car starts after sitting long enough to cool off. So the heat soak diagnosis still makes sense....although the weak spark could indicate an intermittent electrical issue.

A big problem is that modern gas has a lower boiling point...have you changed brands recently ? Do you have an exhaust heat riser and have you made sure it's not stuck shut ?
Old 04-30-2011, 06:24 PM
  #5  
Bill Irwin
Drifting
 
Bill Irwin's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2007
Location: DeBary Fl. Amateur Radio Operator K3CQR
Posts: 1,640
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Think above posters are climbing the wrong tree with this one.
Look toward coil. That's what they do when going down and are hot. Bill.
Old 04-30-2011, 06:28 PM
  #6  
Frankie the Fink
Team Owner

 
Frankie the Fink's Avatar
 
Member Since: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,062
Received 7,082 Likes on 4,736 Posts
Army

Default

Good point - I didn't rule out electronics as I posted above. A quick check would be carrying a known good coil and doing a quick swap when the hard starting occurs...that should nail it one way or another.
Old 04-30-2011, 06:30 PM
  #7  
62Jeff
Tech Contributor
Support Corvetteforum!
 
62Jeff's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2005
Location: Houston-ish Texas
Posts: 15,499
Received 47 Likes on 37 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Bill Irwin
Look toward coil. That's what they do when going down and are hot. Bill.
Old 05-01-2011, 09:23 AM
  #8  
pchalpin
Racer
Thread Starter
 
pchalpin's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2005
Location: Woburn Massachusetts
Posts: 270
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Thank you all for your input. I just ordered a coil. Ecklers has them on sale for $15. Can't go wrong for that price!!!
Old 05-01-2011, 09:58 AM
  #9  
66since71
Melting Slicks
 
66since71's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2006
Location: DFW
Posts: 2,660
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

We get used to newer fuel injection cars and forget the starting procedure for these old (carburated) cars.. I had the same problem last year and a friend in our local Corvette club reminded me to hold the throttle full open/pedal to the floor when the engine is hot. Fired right up every time thereafter. It's worth a try, before you start buying lots of new parts...

Harry
Old 05-01-2011, 03:36 PM
  #10  
Kensmith
Le Mans Master
Support Corvetteforum!
 
Kensmith's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2005
Location: Rocklin California
Posts: 7,631
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by 66since71
We get used to newer fuel injection cars and forget the starting procedure for these old (carburated) cars.. I had the same problem last year and a friend in our local Corvette club reminded me to hold the throttle full open/pedal to the floor when the engine is hot. Fired right up every time thereafter. It's worth a try, before you start buying lots of new parts...

Harry
Or flood the carb if it doesn't start?
Old 05-01-2011, 04:03 PM
  #11  
midyearvette
Le Mans Master
Support Corvetteforum!
 
midyearvette's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2008
Location: columbus oh
Posts: 5,691
Likes: 0
Received 11 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Bill Irwin
Think above posters are climbing the wrong tree with this one.
Look toward coil. That's what they do when going down and are hot. Bill.
...also check that the 12v boost wire is connected to the starter solenoid ( left lug facing the starter) and the coil....
Old 05-01-2011, 04:06 PM
  #12  
edb7
Intermediate
 
edb7's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2011
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Another gremlin to check

Hello,

I had this issue on my 1969 Camaro once upon a time. My money is on an issue with the starter solenoid. Check the ground on the starter and add some heat shield. You can buy the solenoid seperate from the starter, by the way. Good luck,

Ed
Old 05-01-2011, 04:13 PM
  #13  
Godholio
Melting Slicks
 
Godholio's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2008
Location: Columbia, SC
Posts: 2,102
Received 25 Likes on 23 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Kensmith
Or flood the carb if it doesn't start?
It's just a jet of fuel, not a steady flow...that's what pumping the pedal will get you. Ahh, my first attempt at starting a carbed car...
Old 05-02-2011, 07:32 PM
  #14  
pchalpin
Racer
Thread Starter
 
pchalpin's Avatar
 
Member Since: Feb 2005
Location: Woburn Massachusetts
Posts: 270
Received 1 Like on 1 Post

Default

Didn't mention this earlier because I did not think it was relevant. After the October problem, while it was put away for the winter, I replaced the flywheel ( had a couple of bad teeth on the ring gear) and the starter (those bad teeth didn't do the starter much good) with new, not rebuilt. So I'm pretty much ruling out any starter issue. Also, it cranks like a dream with that full set of teeth, just won't ignite when warm.

I'm going to put the new coil in, and hope for the best. The existing coil is original to the car, so I thinking my problem was the dying coil.

Thanks for all of your ideas.

Peter
Old 05-02-2011, 07:43 PM
  #15  
wombvette
Le Mans Master
 
wombvette's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jan 2000
Location: New Hill NC
Posts: 8,918
Likes: 0
Received 24 Likes on 23 Posts

Default

Classic Holley-itis.
Old 05-02-2011, 08:51 PM
  #16  
Kerrmudgeon
Race Director
 
Kerrmudgeon's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2009
Location: Canada's capital
Posts: 19,777
Received 4,583 Likes on 2,157 Posts
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (appearance mods)
C1 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019

Default

Pick up a can of quickstart (ether) and the next time it won't start, put just a puff of it down the carb and try it again, that will tell you if it's a fuel delivery problem. Sounds to me more like a weak spark problem. If the coil is on it's way out, when it's hot it won't put out peak power. Just an idea....good luck!
Old 05-02-2011, 10:03 PM
  #17  
John BX NY
Drifting
 
John BX NY's Avatar
 
Member Since: Dec 2006
Location: Bronx New York
Posts: 1,817
Received 337 Likes on 229 Posts

Default

I had the same exact problem with my 67 SB. Turned out to be a fuel percolation issue that went away when I wired the heat riser valve in the open position...........

Get notified of new replies

To '67 SB - why won't it re-start when warmed up

Old 05-02-2011, 10:53 PM
  #18  
Allcoupedup
Melting Slicks
 
Allcoupedup's Avatar
 
Member Since: Nov 2002
Location: Wheaton IL
Posts: 2,460
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Kensmith
Or flood the carb if it doesn't start?
Isn't cranking with carb WOT the way to reverse flooding? The cranking vacuum isn't enough to pull fuel from the main circuits so the A/F mixture should be mostly air causing fuel sitting in the manifold to evaporate.

Brian
Old 05-03-2011, 01:41 PM
  #19  
64tux
Burning Brakes
 
64tux's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2005
Location: MANCHESTER IOWA
Posts: 846
Received 7 Likes on 6 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by pchalpin
Didn't mention this earlier because I did not think it was relevant. After the October problem, while it was put away for the winter, I replaced the flywheel ( had a couple of bad teeth on the ring gear) and the starter (those bad teeth didn't do the starter much good) with new, not rebuilt. So I'm pretty much ruling out any starter issue. Also, it cranks like a dream with that full set of teeth, just won't ignite when warm.

I'm going to put the new coil in, and hope for the best. The existing coil is original to the car, so I thinking my problem was the dying coil.

Thanks for all of your ideas.

Peter
i've had the same problem with daily driver a had a couple years ago. kept changing things. still wouldn't start when hot. finally figured out the starter was getting too hot and wouldn't start till it cooled off. put a shield between starter and exhaust and no problem!!
Old 05-03-2011, 02:22 PM
  #20  
66since71
Melting Slicks
 
66since71's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2006
Location: DFW
Posts: 2,660
Received 4 Likes on 4 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Allcoupedup
Isn't cranking with carb WOT the way to reverse flooding? The cranking vacuum isn't enough to pull fuel from the main circuits so the A/F mixture should be mostly air causing fuel sitting in the manifold to evaporate.

Brian
Actually, yes. Cranking it hot with WOT, presumes the pump shot will ignite or that there has been some fuel expansion out of the carb onto the floor of the mainfold. If it fires, then the engine starts to make some vacuum.

I know if you look down the venturis on mine when its hot, fuel is dribbling out of them. I have always presumed that's a percolation effect. Anyway, its probably closer to flooded than not in that case.

The 66 owners manual actually calls for 1/2 throttle for hot starts (more vacuum), and full for flooded. I just took my friend's advise, used full throttle and it works!

Harry


Quick Reply: '67 SB - why won't it re-start when warmed up



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:03 PM.