Blk63Vette

Hello

Im getting ready to install new carpet in my 63...I figure since Retro61 (Mike) has taken on the job of making my old crusty seats look like new..It wont look too good with old carpet in the car..Of course, some of its glued down and will need to be removed..

What is the "best way" to remove the old glue...plastic scrapper?, chemical of some sort?...looking for ideas..
Thanks
Pete

P.S. has anyone ever put down the custom fit dynamat for floor boards?...How happy are you with it??

Frankie the Fink

Nothing short of a metal scrapper worked for me....I was leery of using chemicals on my fiberglass C1 floor...

wmf62

my .02...

if you are looking for insulation value from the dynamat or any of its siblings, you are going to be disappointed...

Bill

jprop

I used a product called "Goof Off" not to be confused with Goo Gone. It easily removed the glue without harming the fiberglass. I used a wallpaper scraper to scrape off the softened glue. If you let it sit long enough it will remove paint. If you want to save the factory paint under the carpet for some reason just make sure you take it off within a couple minutes.

Blk63Vette

Thanks Jprop...

Kensmith

That's how I did mine, metal scraper. You don't have to get it all up, but do use some clean hot water to remove any dust/dirt so the adhesive will have a clean surface. I think chemicals may be absorbed into the fiberglass so I didn't use any.

Pilot Dan

I did my 64 Coupe a while back and just did the 59. Depending on what type of glue was used, usually it's the yellow brush on stuff, I like to start with a 2" metal scraper and get as much off as I can that way, vacuum up all the dust as you go. Use some simple green to get is real clean and grease free. On a couple of stubborn spots on the 59, I used some coarse sandpaper (JUST ON THE GLUE) to rough it up and got the rest off with some acetone (used sparingly) and a rag. Keep in mind the Dynamat needs a clean dust free surface to stick well but will go over traces of glue, so you dont have to go crazy. The key is to take the time to roll it on and get it really smooth. If in doubt, take a 2"
square piece of Dynamat or a piece of packing tape and test stick it to the surface and see if the adhesion is good. If you pick up dust, it's not clean enough for me yet.

To answer your second question about how happy I am with it, in the 64 Coupe, VERY. I did the entire interior including Headliner, doors and inside of doors, and even with side pipes, you can hear your tunes and have a conversation. It greatly improved the noise factor. I also used jute padding and foam backed carpet on top of that.



Pilot Dan

John S 1961

what do you like? or what system of various material do you like?

wmf62

the first thing to look for in any insulation, whether it's your house or your car, is to see if the specs give an 'R' value number; the higher the better. if you can't find one, then chances are it doesn't have much or any heat insulation value, just noise reduction.

the second thing is to put your insulation on the outside rather than inside on the floor; it's better to keep it out than to contain the heat onces it has migrated through your fiberglass. most people probably don't want the hassle or the eyesore on having it under the floor rather than on top.

check EZCool and this stuff http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AUTOM...Q5fAccessories

Bill

LB66383

I used 3M adhesive remover on my coupe to get the old stuff out. Worked great and did no damage to the 'glass. I was able to lift off the old glue with a putty knife. I put Dynamat all over the interior, and it is definitely cooler and quieter. There may be other products that are cheaper and/or insulate better, but I'm happy.

Frankie the Fink

I have the Eckler's "space age" ceramic insulation on the floor of the '61...which I covered right over two years later with a Dynamat equivalent and I agree with Bill. If there is some big advantage in insulation (even with TWO layers of different materials) I'm totally missing it. The C1 compartment is still a microwave oven in the Florida sun and heat.

Blk63Vette

Hello

I have been scrapping for the last few days I am still on the driverside floorboards...The glue used on this last carpet install is unbelieveable..

Im using goof off and a metal scrapper...Its still a very very long job..I also noticed a crack at the front of driverside floor board where emergency cable is mounted underneath floor board and small hole near accelerator pedal is..Any suggestion on how to fix this??

Thanks
Pete

PaulUptime

Would a heat gun help?

wmf62

if it's a short 'crack', then you may be able to V it out and repair it with some epoxy. anything longer than an ich or so i would recommend grinding it out and repairing with resin and fiberglass mat.

same with the hole
Bill

C-1 Generation 2

I was lucky in that my carpeting was not glued down but all the rubber on the back of the carpet was really stuck to the fiberglass.After I scraped all of rubber off using both metal and plastic scrapers I used this to insulate first:

http://www.makepaintinsulate.com/

I mixed it with high heat flat black paint and used a small roller.I put several coats on the inside floor and the underside between the frame rails and part way up the fire wall.After all the coating dried then I used foil back duct insulation.
With the soft top up the car stays unbelievably cool.I also use a $11 oscillating fan that mounted to the heater box and draws air from the cowl vent to keep air moving when stopped at stop lights.