After 33 years
08-28-2011, 03:08 PM
#21
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LOL, there are a couple of rooms in the house that would fit right in on the Hoarders show. Not rotting garbage, but mountains of clothes and every imagiable type of household item. I've moved the car and will be posting more pictures next week when I can start looking at codes and stampings. I'll be back.
Last edited by Packrat66; 08-29-2011 at 09:46 AM.
09-01-2011, 01:24 AM
#23
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Ok guys I'm back. I've got some more "as found" pictures of the '66. Along with two tags to decode. I still haven't had the time to get the numbers off the block, carb, tranny, etc. This car was bought in Pennsyvania in '72 driven for another 6 years and parked. It's got 65,000+ on the odometer. Lots of extra parts and pieces inside.
http://public.fotki.com/Packrat66/66-vette/
Here's what else I found in the garage. Chevy mystery motor with engine specs. Can anyone tell me what I've got here by the specs? http://public.fotki.com/Packrat66/chevy-engine/
http://public.fotki.com/Packrat66/66-vette/
Here's what else I found in the garage. Chevy mystery motor with engine specs. Can anyone tell me what I've got here by the specs? http://public.fotki.com/Packrat66/chevy-engine/
Last edited by Packrat66; 09-01-2011 at 01:38 AM.
09-01-2011, 01:29 AM
#24
Tech Contributor
The trim tag decodes to:
1966 Coupe
Blue/White vinyl interior
Bright Blue exterior
AO Smith body number 292
The VIN tag decodes to a car built on October 7, 1965
1966 Coupe
Blue/White vinyl interior
Bright Blue exterior
AO Smith body number 292
The VIN tag decodes to a car built on October 7, 1965
09-01-2011, 10:34 AM
#25
Cool.
I think you should call them and tell them your car won't start and see if they will come out to make it run.
Looks like a little work to do. I'd see if the engine was free. Pull the spark plugs, squirt a little oil in each hole, pour a little diesel fuel down the carb (oily to lube cylinders, thin enough to flow through the intake to each one), and try to rotate the engine by hand.
You may have to use a breaker bar to get enough leverage, and be gentle, rocking back and forth to get the oil worked around the rings in case the cylinders are rusty.
If you get it so you can turn it several full rotations, then find an alternator, check the fluids, and see if you can fire it up.
I'd change the rubber fuel lines and the gas filter, as they are 30 years old and probably ready to fall apart.
You might was to disconnect the fuel line and run a temporary line to a gas can away from the engine in case the gas tank and gas lines are a mess or clogged.
Looks like fun.
i know I'd be spending every waking moment to make it run and drive up and down the driveway. But those 30 year old Goodyears should be used only for show, painting the car, or letting it sit in the garage. Driving anywhere but around the yard, off the trailer, or such at a walking speed will be a problem you really don't want.
I think you should call them and tell them your car won't start and see if they will come out to make it run.
Looks like a little work to do. I'd see if the engine was free. Pull the spark plugs, squirt a little oil in each hole, pour a little diesel fuel down the carb (oily to lube cylinders, thin enough to flow through the intake to each one), and try to rotate the engine by hand.
You may have to use a breaker bar to get enough leverage, and be gentle, rocking back and forth to get the oil worked around the rings in case the cylinders are rusty.
If you get it so you can turn it several full rotations, then find an alternator, check the fluids, and see if you can fire it up.
I'd change the rubber fuel lines and the gas filter, as they are 30 years old and probably ready to fall apart.
You might was to disconnect the fuel line and run a temporary line to a gas can away from the engine in case the gas tank and gas lines are a mess or clogged.
Looks like fun.
i know I'd be spending every waking moment to make it run and drive up and down the driveway. But those 30 year old Goodyears should be used only for show, painting the car, or letting it sit in the garage. Driving anywhere but around the yard, off the trailer, or such at a walking speed will be a problem you really don't want.
09-01-2011, 11:49 AM
#26
Race Director
Cool find! I wonder what those add on toggle switches on the left top center dash were for?
As for the "mystery engine" - it looks like a street build motor set up to go in the car. The 9.5:1 compression is a clue. The mechanicals all look to be 70's/80's vintage parts.
I'd say go ahead and open the envelope that says "Engine Specs"! Post it here, and you'll get lots of feedback as to what you've got!
Your original post said the car was parked due to a problem with the engine or transmission. With this other engine having been sitting there ready to go in the car, my guess is you now know that the engine was the problem!
Best wishes with your project!
As for the "mystery engine" - it looks like a street build motor set up to go in the car. The 9.5:1 compression is a clue. The mechanicals all look to be 70's/80's vintage parts.
I'd say go ahead and open the envelope that says "Engine Specs"! Post it here, and you'll get lots of feedback as to what you've got!
Your original post said the car was parked due to a problem with the engine or transmission. With this other engine having been sitting there ready to go in the car, my guess is you now know that the engine was the problem!
Best wishes with your project!
09-01-2011, 01:49 PM
#29
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Thanks for the info guys. The car was purchased (after having one owner) in Pennsylvania (Plymouth Meeting)for $1,582 in 1972. It then made it's way out to the West coast by that owner who I believe was the second owner. He drove it for another 6 years and "parked" it.
The contents of the "mystery engine" envelope are in the photo album. I know enough about mechanics to do tune ups,cosmetic, and bolt on stuff, but I'm a finish carpenter by trade. So the specs in the envelope are Greek to me. My son and I intend to do as much work on the car as we can. I'll have to leave an engine or tranny rebuild to someone else. I have a feeling that the engine and trans are original, but will have to get the car to my space to really go over it.
One of the replys I got says the interior code says it's blue and white. The carpet is black and worn through on the drivers side. The seats are also black, and the dash is blue. The driver side door panel is black and looks original to the car by it's age. Could it have been blue and black originally or is the code proof positive of blue and white? I don't really care about this being a perfect by the code restoration or some trailer queen. I want to drive the Hell out of it. I certainly would want to keep an all matching number car if possible, but I'm not going to get **** about it. As for those "mystery toggles" on the dash, your guess is as good as mine. They can be removed and the dash repaired.
Thanks for the input everyone. More codes and pictures as time allows.
Any way you look at it it's gonna be fun!
The contents of the "mystery engine" envelope are in the photo album. I know enough about mechanics to do tune ups,cosmetic, and bolt on stuff, but I'm a finish carpenter by trade. So the specs in the envelope are Greek to me. My son and I intend to do as much work on the car as we can. I'll have to leave an engine or tranny rebuild to someone else. I have a feeling that the engine and trans are original, but will have to get the car to my space to really go over it.
One of the replys I got says the interior code says it's blue and white. The carpet is black and worn through on the drivers side. The seats are also black, and the dash is blue. The driver side door panel is black and looks original to the car by it's age. Could it have been blue and black originally or is the code proof positive of blue and white? I don't really care about this being a perfect by the code restoration or some trailer queen. I want to drive the Hell out of it. I certainly would want to keep an all matching number car if possible, but I'm not going to get **** about it. As for those "mystery toggles" on the dash, your guess is as good as mine. They can be removed and the dash repaired.
Thanks for the input everyone. More codes and pictures as time allows.
Any way you look at it it's gonna be fun!
Last edited by Packrat66; 09-29-2011 at 09:41 PM.
09-01-2011, 02:28 PM
#30
Race Director
Thanks for the info guys. The car was purchased in Pennsylvania (Plymouth Meeting)for $1,582 in 1972. It then made it's way out to the West coast by that owner who I believe was the second owner. He drove it for another 6 years and "parked" it.
The contents of the "mystery engine" envelope are in the photo album. I know enough about mechanics to do tune ups,cosmetic, and bolt on stuff, but I'm a finish carpenter by trade. So the specs in the envelope are Greek to me. My son and I intend to do as much work on the car as we can. I'll have to leave an engine or tranny rebuild to someone else. I have a feeling that the engine and trans are original, but will have to get the car to my space to really go over it.
One of the replys I got says the interior code says it's blue and white. The carpet is black and worn through on the drivers side. The seats are also black, and the dash is blue. The driver side door panel is black and looks original to the car by it's age. Could it have been blue and black originally or is the code proof positive of blue and white? I don't really care about this being a perfect by the code restoration or some trailer queen. I want to drive the Hell out of it. I certainly would want to keep an all matching number car if possible, but I'm not going to get **** about it. As for those "mystery toggles" on the dash, your guess is as good as mine. They can be removed and the dash repaired.
Thanks for the input everyone. More codes and pictures as time allows.
Any way you look at it it's gonna be fun!
The contents of the "mystery engine" envelope are in the photo album. I know enough about mechanics to do tune ups,cosmetic, and bolt on stuff, but I'm a finish carpenter by trade. So the specs in the envelope are Greek to me. My son and I intend to do as much work on the car as we can. I'll have to leave an engine or tranny rebuild to someone else. I have a feeling that the engine and trans are original, but will have to get the car to my space to really go over it.
One of the replys I got says the interior code says it's blue and white. The carpet is black and worn through on the drivers side. The seats are also black, and the dash is blue. The driver side door panel is black and looks original to the car by it's age. Could it have been blue and black originally or is the code proof positive of blue and white? I don't really care about this being a perfect by the code restoration or some trailer queen. I want to drive the Hell out of it. I certainly would want to keep an all matching number car if possible, but I'm not going to get **** about it. As for those "mystery toggles" on the dash, your guess is as good as mine. They can be removed and the dash repaired.
Thanks for the input everyone. More codes and pictures as time allows.
Any way you look at it it's gonna be fun!
Sounds like all that may be a moot question anyway, as you want to keep it original and thus will likely be rebuilding the original engine rather than using the "mystery" one. Next step should be to get some photos of the casting numbers and stamp pad data and post 'em up here to verify the engine in the car. You can also do that with the "mystery" one to see what it originally was.
09-01-2011, 09:48 PM
#33
Burning Brakes
Welcome
Welcome to the Forum Packrat66, great looking car.
I had the same expierience with my car, it sat for almost 20yrs. Joining this forum was the best move I made, the information and physical help here is invaluable. I said physical, because I met members on here that weren't that far away, and have actually come over and helped me. I also have been able to find many parts that I've needed and members send em over, what more could I ask for, it's a great community.
The best advice I got IMHO, was, If your going to have to rebuild the engine anyway, you might as well go ahead and try to get it running and see where you are from that point. I was told to oil up the cylinders, let it sit and then do it again, after a few times I was able to rock it enough to see the fan move, temporarily put in some light weight oil, clean gas, turned it over and saw the oil pressure building up, so I went for it, and sure enough it fired up.
Have since done the brakes over and have been able to drive it around the neighborhood a little. While toolin' around the block I make a mental list of all the stuff I need to do over the winter when I can then take it apart for bigger fixes.....so good luck and keep us posted!!
I had the same expierience with my car, it sat for almost 20yrs. Joining this forum was the best move I made, the information and physical help here is invaluable. I said physical, because I met members on here that weren't that far away, and have actually come over and helped me. I also have been able to find many parts that I've needed and members send em over, what more could I ask for, it's a great community.
The best advice I got IMHO, was, If your going to have to rebuild the engine anyway, you might as well go ahead and try to get it running and see where you are from that point. I was told to oil up the cylinders, let it sit and then do it again, after a few times I was able to rock it enough to see the fan move, temporarily put in some light weight oil, clean gas, turned it over and saw the oil pressure building up, so I went for it, and sure enough it fired up.
Have since done the brakes over and have been able to drive it around the neighborhood a little. While toolin' around the block I make a mental list of all the stuff I need to do over the winter when I can then take it apart for bigger fixes.....so good luck and keep us posted!!
09-01-2011, 09:52 PM
#34
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Thanks for the welcome Oaker. That's what I'm going to do. See if she runs, and find out what's needed mechanically. If I rebuild the engine, in your opinion, should I keep it bone stock or warm it up a little. What kind of horsepower can I get out of this mill without changing it's outward appearance,and still be a good cruiser. Drivers side door needs glass. Who are you guys using for repro parts like glass, interior door panels,headliners, trim, and such. I haven't found the front bumpers yet, but I've still got a lot of digging to do. If something needs to be replaced I want to use quality parts. Not some Chinese knockoffs.
Last edited by Packrat66; 09-01-2011 at 10:27 PM.
09-02-2011, 08:45 AM
#35
Melting Slicks
My own personal opinion is that if you ever have to rebuild the motor, why not warm it up a bit. If you must keep the stock look, nobody can SEE the cam.....Just hear it.
09-02-2011, 10:39 AM
#38
Le Mans Master
Amazing and I bet anyone who takes the time to bag and tag the engine specs, did a fine job of taking care of everything else.
Gordon
Gordon
09-02-2011, 12:30 PM
#40
Le Mans Master
The Engine is a 350, .030 over. The heads look like the standard GM head from that era, most likeley 72 or 76cc but you can check the casting numbers under the valve cover and verify what heads these are. Pistons are most likely flat tops with 4 valve reliefs.
The car looks unbelieveable, great find.
The car looks unbelieveable, great find.