knock off Q
#41
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#42
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Here's a picture of the "safety pin" from my 1963.
After the car spent a year in the body shop, I was driving it home. A wheel fell off, breaking up the 1/4 panel and my new paint.
A kid ran up to me while I was still sitting in the car and said he found it in the street.
After the car spent a year in the body shop, I was driving it home. A wheel fell off, breaking up the 1/4 panel and my new paint.
A kid ran up to me while I was still sitting in the car and said he found it in the street.
#44
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I think it's funny you're worried about hitting the fender. You don't have to come anyways close to it to tighten the spinner. And, I'm a whole lot older than you.
#46
Melting Slicks
Here's a picture of the "safety pin" from my 1963.
After the car spent a year in the body shop, I was driving it home. A wheel fell off, breaking up the 1/4 panel and my new paint.
A kid ran up to me while I was still sitting in the car and said he found it in the street.
After the car spent a year in the body shop, I was driving it home. A wheel fell off, breaking up the 1/4 panel and my new paint.
A kid ran up to me while I was still sitting in the car and said he found it in the street.
#47
Melting Slicks
QUOTE=Karfever;1578707031]As some of you may know, a week ago I bought a 65 Coupe with repro-knock offs. I drove the car 110 miles home, took it out again Saturday and felt a slight vibration coming home. I didn't think much about it until I went out to clean the car on Sunday. When I went to wipe off the right front wheel, the spinner spun! It wasn't even tight at all and could of easily fell off resulting in a catastrophic failure, three wheels instead of four.
I did alot of research and found out what caused my issue and know know how to correctly install these wheels. My problem was the result of improper installation, the wheel was incorrectly 'clocked' on the bolt on hub. There are longer lug nuts which when used will prevent the wheel for being incorrectly installed, I know have these and am checking all wheels. Also in my case the aluminum pin was sheared off.
These wheels are nice to look at but require knowledge to insure they are installed as designed, not by some 'bubba' who knows not what he does.[/QUOTE]
Thats why Im the only one who puts on my knock off wheels..8 years later no problems..
I did alot of research and found out what caused my issue and know know how to correctly install these wheels. My problem was the result of improper installation, the wheel was incorrectly 'clocked' on the bolt on hub. There are longer lug nuts which when used will prevent the wheel for being incorrectly installed, I know have these and am checking all wheels. Also in my case the aluminum pin was sheared off.
These wheels are nice to look at but require knowledge to insure they are installed as designed, not by some 'bubba' who knows not what he does.[/QUOTE]
Thats why Im the only one who puts on my knock off wheels..8 years later no problems..
#48
Team Owner
#52
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I bet you that knock off was NOT put on properly!!!! I drove my Vette home from a Speciality Corvette shop and knock off was on finger tight...The mechanic didnt have a lead hammer and used a Dead blow hammer instead!!! Ironic thing was I had a lead hammer in the back storage compartment..
#53
tool to fit K/Os right
at first it seems I owe an old gentleman an appology:
MikeM: I thought you're a young man picking on the ol' f...t's in the forum. Forgive me that I assumed you of younger age and therefore did not see the sarcasm in your comment.
Same happened to a friends 65 Coupe. His mechanic used a piece of wood with his words: "to protect the spinners". Fate arrived undoubtedly: the wheel came loose. Thank to the ADAC he made it home.
We have a open 65 with k/O wheels so I got scared and tried to learn by questions on this forum and run some tests by tacking and vise versa " beating the bejesus out of the spinners" . With and without inserted safety pins. The same result as on the photo of the teethed pin came out of my tests when I hammered a spinner off without taking the safety pin out. (Seems the painters did that too)
Finally I ran into a very interesting supplier yesterday.
www.oldtimertools.de.
That tool, with incorporated torque wrench to come up with the necessary 250 to 350nm, is avaliable for all sorts of wire wheel spinners including Dayton and Hallybrands, last not least the K&H Knock offs.
That tool seems to be the answer to fit wheels properly, to prevent blows into the wires, wheel dishs, fender rims, or the own foot or leg.
MikeM: I thought you're a young man picking on the ol' f...t's in the forum. Forgive me that I assumed you of younger age and therefore did not see the sarcasm in your comment.
The mechanic didnt have a lead hammer and used a Dead blow hammer instead!!!
We have a open 65 with k/O wheels so I got scared and tried to learn by questions on this forum and run some tests by tacking and vise versa " beating the bejesus out of the spinners" . With and without inserted safety pins. The same result as on the photo of the teethed pin came out of my tests when I hammered a spinner off without taking the safety pin out. (Seems the painters did that too)
Finally I ran into a very interesting supplier yesterday.
www.oldtimertools.de.
That tool, with incorporated torque wrench to come up with the necessary 250 to 350nm, is avaliable for all sorts of wire wheel spinners including Dayton and Hallybrands, last not least the K&H Knock offs.
That tool seems to be the answer to fit wheels properly, to prevent blows into the wires, wheel dishs, fender rims, or the own foot or leg.
#54
Team Owner
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Location: Greenville, Indiana
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Finally I ran into a very interesting supplier yesterday.
www.oldtimertools.de.
That tool, with incorporated torque wrench to come up with the necessary 250 to 350nm, is avaliable for all sorts of wire wheel spinners including Dayton and Hallybrands, last not least the K&H Knock offs.
That tool seems to be the answer to fit wheels properly, to prevent blows into the wires, wheel dishs, fender rims, or the own foot or leg.
There is a tool made in this country that does the same thing and is just about as useful from what I've read of the owners that have used it. "Portka" tool.
The very best tool to tighten/loosen your spinners in most owners opinion is a 5-6 pound lead hammer. You can get more torque on the spinner with the hammer than you can with the wrench unless you're a 500 lb gorilla.
With just an average amount of hand/eye co-ordination, there is no reason for you to be beating your fenders, paint, wheels or even your foot with a 5-6 pound lead hammer. If you can drive a standard shift with a clutch pedal and put on the turn signals at the same time, you should have sufficient co-ordination to use the lead hammer without fear of damage to your car or your body.
PS. If you put the wheel on the adaptor and you can turn the spinner about seven turns, it's installed correctly over the drive pins. If you can turn the spinner only a couple turns, it's wrong!
Last edited by MikeM; 09-19-2011 at 06:38 AM.
#55
Melting Slicks
If you want the German tool, go for it but make sure it will torque up to 610 nm as that is equivalent to the design 450 ft/lbs prescribed for assembly.
There is a tool made in this country that does the same thing and is just about as useful from what I've read of the owners that have used it. "Portka" tool.
The very best tool to tighten/loosen your spinners in most owners opinion is a 5-6 pound lead hammer. You can get more torque on the spinner with the hammer than you can with the wrench unless you're a 500 lb gorilla.
With just an average amount of hand/eye co-ordination, there is no reason for you to be beating your fenders, paint, wheels or even your foot with a 5-6 pound lead hammer. If you can drive a standard shift with a clutch pedal and put on the turn signals at the same time, you should have sufficient co-ordination to use the lead hammer without fear of damage to your car or your body.
PS. If you put the wheel on the adaptor and you can turn the spinner about seven turns, it's installed correctly over the drive pins. If you can turn the spinner only a couple turns, it's wrong!
There is a tool made in this country that does the same thing and is just about as useful from what I've read of the owners that have used it. "Portka" tool.
The very best tool to tighten/loosen your spinners in most owners opinion is a 5-6 pound lead hammer. You can get more torque on the spinner with the hammer than you can with the wrench unless you're a 500 lb gorilla.
With just an average amount of hand/eye co-ordination, there is no reason for you to be beating your fenders, paint, wheels or even your foot with a 5-6 pound lead hammer. If you can drive a standard shift with a clutch pedal and put on the turn signals at the same time, you should have sufficient co-ordination to use the lead hammer without fear of damage to your car or your body.
PS. If you put the wheel on the adaptor and you can turn the spinner about seven turns, it's installed correctly over the drive pins. If you can turn the spinner only a couple turns, it's wrong!
Hello
I dont know why other people try to use something "different" instead of the good "old fashion" lead hammer...
I like beating the hell out of them ...I know its on there tight ....
However, make sure its on the ground when beating the hell out of it...A couple years ago. I was at a car show (yeah I know..was just a spectator)....I watched in horror.. a Ferrari expert.. with a 60's era Ferrari with the wheel off the ground beating the hell out of his knock off wire wheel with a lead hammer trying to get it off...Smiling as he beating on the wire wheel...Saying these old "knock off" can be difficult to take off...
Ahhhh Yeah...Im not "rocket scientist" like this guy is...I cant image this being good for your front suspension...I was going to say something....But then again this guy is an expert..
So, I watched him struggle for a couple more minutes then went to look at some more over priced Ferrari's
Last edited by Blk63Vette; 09-19-2011 at 09:27 PM.
#56
torque up to 610 nm as that is equivalent to the design 450 ft/lbs prescribed for assembly
Mike, I will stick with my hammer because with a lever I cannot produce 610nm to tighten or slacken the spinner. Bet the wheel will turn over before the 600 figures are reached.
Would you mind to let me know where I find the assembly description with the explicit 450ft/lbs? Was that in service bulletins, or somewhere else?
#57
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I love this forum for the accumulated specific knowledge I find here.
Mike, I will stick with my hammer because with a lever I cannot produce 610nm to tighten or slacken the spinner. Bet the wheel will turn over before the 600 figures are reached.
Would you mind to let me know where I find the assembly description with the explicit 450ft/lbs? Was that in service bulletins, or somewhere else?
Mike, I will stick with my hammer because with a lever I cannot produce 610nm to tighten or slacken the spinner. Bet the wheel will turn over before the 600 figures are reached.
Would you mind to let me know where I find the assembly description with the explicit 450ft/lbs? Was that in service bulletins, or somewhere else?
http://willcoxcorvette.com/instructi...tion_sheet.pdf
Note the engineering installation instructions specifically address indexing the wheel correctly, without any rotational play and seven rounds of the spinner on a CORRECTLY INSTALLED WHEEL. The torque spec is also listed.
If you adhere to what "engineering" specified in their assembly instructions, there's no reason to believe you have to use the stupid little pins, the magic markers or the long pry bars to tighten the spinners and keep the wheels on the car. It's that simple.
#58
Team Owner
In a nutshell, This is what I did when I changed the tires on my knock-off's a couple of weeks ago.
When reinstalling the wheel:
First, I made sure the long lugs fit in the large holes for them and the small pilot shafts fit in the smaller holes designed for them.
The wheel does not move forward or backward at this time. It is securely fitted to the adapter.
I then placed the cone cover over the adapter followed by the spinner.
I hand tighten the spinner till it is snug to the cone and adapter.
I then pull out my ****** thumper (get your mind out of the gutter) and whack the snot out of the spinner in the direction to tighten it further.
After tightening all of the spinners I lower the car to the ground and start to whack the spinners again and again and again.
After My arm recovers from all that whacking (again, get your mind out of the gutter) I drive the car around for a while.
Then I start to think about the pin locations. I start to bang on the spinners again, in a tightening direction, until I get a hole to line up. The pin should slip in, narrow side first, with your fingers. You should not have to bang the pin in. If it doesn't slip in by hand, it isn't lined up and you need to bang on the spinner some more, in a tightening direct of course.
After the pin is in, I place the center cap back on by hand and give it a little pop with the palm of my hand to seat it.
Done!
Periodically remove the center caps and check the spinners. If it appears to be loosening at all, whack it some more. The pins will let you know real quick if the spinner is loosening.
If it seems to be loosening too much, remove the wheel and recheck everything to make sure something isn't wrong.
When reinstalling the wheel:
First, I made sure the long lugs fit in the large holes for them and the small pilot shafts fit in the smaller holes designed for them.
The wheel does not move forward or backward at this time. It is securely fitted to the adapter.
I then placed the cone cover over the adapter followed by the spinner.
I hand tighten the spinner till it is snug to the cone and adapter.
I then pull out my ****** thumper (get your mind out of the gutter) and whack the snot out of the spinner in the direction to tighten it further.
After tightening all of the spinners I lower the car to the ground and start to whack the spinners again and again and again.
After My arm recovers from all that whacking (again, get your mind out of the gutter) I drive the car around for a while.
Then I start to think about the pin locations. I start to bang on the spinners again, in a tightening direction, until I get a hole to line up. The pin should slip in, narrow side first, with your fingers. You should not have to bang the pin in. If it doesn't slip in by hand, it isn't lined up and you need to bang on the spinner some more, in a tightening direct of course.
After the pin is in, I place the center cap back on by hand and give it a little pop with the palm of my hand to seat it.
Done!
Periodically remove the center caps and check the spinners. If it appears to be loosening at all, whack it some more. The pins will let you know real quick if the spinner is loosening.
If it seems to be loosening too much, remove the wheel and recheck everything to make sure something isn't wrong.
#59
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In a nutshell, This is what I did when I changed the tires on my knock-off's a couple of weeks ago.
When reinstalling the wheel:
First, I made sure the long lugs fit in the large holes for them and the small pilot shafts fit in the smaller holes designed for them.
The wheel does not move forward or backward at this time. It is securely fitted to the adapter.
I then placed the cone cover over the adapter followed by the spinner.
I hand tighten the spinner till it is snug to the cone and adapter.
I then pull out my ****** thumper (get your mind out of the gutter) and whack the snot out of the spinner in the direction to tighten it further.
After tightening all of the spinners I lower the car to the ground and start to whack the spinners again and again and again.
After My arm recovers from all that whacking (again, get your mind out of the gutter) I drive the car around for a while.
Then I start to think about the pin locations. I start to bang on the spinners again, in a tightening direction, until I get a hole to line up. The pin should slip in, narrow side first, with your fingers. You should not have to bang the pin in. If it doesn't slip in by hand, it isn't lined up and you need to bang on the spinner some more, in a tightening direct of course.
After the pin is in, I place the center cap back on by hand and give it a little pop with the palm of my hand to seat it.
Done!
Periodically remove the center caps and check the spinners. If it appears to be loosening at all, whack it some more. The pins will let you know real quick if the spinner is loosening.
If it seems to be loosening too much, remove the wheel and recheck everything to make sure something isn't wrong.
When reinstalling the wheel:
First, I made sure the long lugs fit in the large holes for them and the small pilot shafts fit in the smaller holes designed for them.
The wheel does not move forward or backward at this time. It is securely fitted to the adapter.
I then placed the cone cover over the adapter followed by the spinner.
I hand tighten the spinner till it is snug to the cone and adapter.
I then pull out my ****** thumper (get your mind out of the gutter) and whack the snot out of the spinner in the direction to tighten it further.
After tightening all of the spinners I lower the car to the ground and start to whack the spinners again and again and again.
After My arm recovers from all that whacking (again, get your mind out of the gutter) I drive the car around for a while.
Then I start to think about the pin locations. I start to bang on the spinners again, in a tightening direction, until I get a hole to line up. The pin should slip in, narrow side first, with your fingers. You should not have to bang the pin in. If it doesn't slip in by hand, it isn't lined up and you need to bang on the spinner some more, in a tightening direct of course.
After the pin is in, I place the center cap back on by hand and give it a little pop with the palm of my hand to seat it.
Done!
Periodically remove the center caps and check the spinners. If it appears to be loosening at all, whack it some more. The pins will let you know real quick if the spinner is loosening.
If it seems to be loosening too much, remove the wheel and recheck everything to make sure something isn't wrong.
I may have missed it in earlier posts, but this is the first time I've grasped that the pins are narrow at one end. I've seen new pins in their plastic pouches & always just assumed the entire pin was the same diameter, ie, straight.
Is the damaged pin in Vettebuyer5869's post narrower at one end?