Wiring Harness
#21
Instructor
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Member Since: Feb 2011
Location: Crestview Fl
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I am big on the learning curve. I figure you can do just about anything, screw it up a couple times, and it still would not cost as much as it would to pay someone else to do it. At least almost anything.
I am going to see what else I can get in trouble with while I a waiting for my guages.
Oh, I have not changed the two front motor mount grounds. They look like they have been locked in for life. I am going to shoot them with a little PSB and see if I can take out the bolts without stripping them or worse. If they are anything like the horn bolts, I cant wait to mess with them. When I did the wiring for the horn, the bolts broke off and I ended up taking the hood off and spending another hour and a half fixing the brackets they bolted into.
I am going to see what else I can get in trouble with while I a waiting for my guages.
Oh, I have not changed the two front motor mount grounds. They look like they have been locked in for life. I am going to shoot them with a little PSB and see if I can take out the bolts without stripping them or worse. If they are anything like the horn bolts, I cant wait to mess with them. When I did the wiring for the horn, the bolts broke off and I ended up taking the hood off and spending another hour and a half fixing the brackets they bolted into.
#22
Melting Slicks
That was a long time ago.....
#23
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Location: Bradenton Florida
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In the photo above showing the wiring on the ballast resistor, it appears that the wire running to the + side of the coil is on the DS of the balllast resistor. I understand that the DS of the ballast resistor has a full 12 volts whenever the ignition is on. In the photo above, does that means the coil would receive a constant 12 v since the voltage has not been reduced by the resistor. Do I understand the wiring so far?
If the above is correct, it is also my understanding of basic points style distributor, if you have an externally ballasted coil, you want the + side of the coil connected the the ballast side which has been reduced by the resistor and not the full 12 v side or DS. Correct. Is the coil in the photo above connected to the full constant 12 volts and is that because you are running an electronic or upgraded ignition versus a standard points style ignition?
In the wiring that I have done on 50's era cars with a 12 volt system, the coil is usually fed by a constant voltage of about only 6-7 volts and not 12 volts. Some systems temporarily apply 12 volts during starting but then drop back down to 6-7 volts to the coil after the starter has disengaged. I always had to be careful not to apply too much constant voltage for fear of burning out the points prematurely.
Thanks for any clarification you might offer. Doug
If the above is correct, it is also my understanding of basic points style distributor, if you have an externally ballasted coil, you want the + side of the coil connected the the ballast side which has been reduced by the resistor and not the full 12 v side or DS. Correct. Is the coil in the photo above connected to the full constant 12 volts and is that because you are running an electronic or upgraded ignition versus a standard points style ignition?
In the wiring that I have done on 50's era cars with a 12 volt system, the coil is usually fed by a constant voltage of about only 6-7 volts and not 12 volts. Some systems temporarily apply 12 volts during starting but then drop back down to 6-7 volts to the coil after the starter has disengaged. I always had to be careful not to apply too much constant voltage for fear of burning out the points prematurely.
Thanks for any clarification you might offer. Doug
Last edited by Doug1964; 01-14-2012 at 12:22 AM.
#24
Team Owner
Roger is running a Pertronix ignition....and how you wire it depends on whether you are running a stock coil or a low resistance aftermarket coil. I run the Pertronix III with a FlameThrower coil -- this is how its wired on my car.