Dave Hadley

(1962 door assembly, and adjustment)
i have completly disassembled my 62 fuel car and am in the end process of primer and paint. I have been advised to paint the car completly apart then assemble it. There are lots of 'innards' in the doors, all the mechanisms tracks, latches or what have you are new or restored and ready to go back in the door. I have an aim but it really doesn't tell me what 'sequence' these parts should go back in the door. Can anyone advise?

jimh_1962

The doors are a PITA. Its a one hand job no pun intended.

1. Get all of the weatherstripping on the door before attaching it to the hinges.
2. Install the mirror and the window post.
3. Prefit the window felt and the trim and verify the door will close properly against the winsheild post.
3. Install the front runner and leave it loose so the regulator can go past it.
4. Install the regulator. This will take some work since there is a rubber seal which goes on the regulator before the opening.
5. Install the door latch outside locks, rods and locking mechanism.
6. Install the middle and rear runner. Dont forget the felt liner.
7. Install the side window glass with runner.
8. adjust windowstops so these keep the glass from going to far up.
9. Install the reveal moulding with the glass partly up. Fun... ugh!
10. Install the door end posts.
11. Seal the parts on the door. using cauking and weatherstripping glue.
12. Adjust door fit and verify latches and locks work. (inside)
13. Install door panel.
14. Install armrest, window crank, door **** and lock ****.

Now, do it all over again except for the mirror on the other side.

Note read the archives for more detail notes.

Dave Hadley

Thans, i'll give it a go.

Frankie the Fink

Guess which section of the '61/'62 AIM has the most pages devoted to it ? The doors!

Anyway take it from me...the door post fit is one of the most crucial fit points on these cars. If they fit too loosely in the door it will look sloppy -- too tight and the first time the door is slammed the paint at the bottom of the post will crack. This is the only spot on my '61 paintjob that looks less than a "10" because of this very issue.

mike coletta

It can be done this way.....but it WOULD be a PITA!! Here is my 2 cents worth.
1. Don't put the rubber on until you fit the door. It will make the alignment process a lot easier. You should also leave the latch/catch off until the door is in the hole with correct gaps.
2. Fit the post, including the lower front track (post extension), and then take it out. It should be installed AFTER the glass is in the door.
3. Install the regulator first, then the latch (star wheel), bellcrank assembly (3 screws), and the rods. There is no need to install the locks or outside door handles until you have the glass in the door, and aligned.
4. Install the front lower post extension. It will be held loosely by the lower adjustment bolt only.
5. Install the glass by aligning the front wheel to the lower front post extension track. The post is not in yet, and the rear channel is not in yet.
6. While holding the glass up, install the lower main channel. This is the one that is on the bottom of the glass, and uses two guide wheels from the regulator. Clip the glass on to the channel, and install the four small screws that hold the glass to the regulator.
7. Slide the curved inner channel on to the remaining regulator wheel, and install with the two phillips head/star washer 1/4 X 20 screws. There is a left and a right. If you get them wrong, the window won't work.
8. Wind the window up to the top, and slide the rear channel up from the bottom on to the back of the glass. Again, there is a left and a right. They are not interchangeable.
9. NOW, slide the post into place and fasten it with two large head phillips screws with star washers (1/4 X 20), and two short hex screws. One is inboard and goes into the post at the top of the door, and one goes in through the hole in the very FRONT of the post. The adjustment on the post is done with the inboard top hex screw (fore/aft), and the very bottom of the post extension to move in/out or left/right.
10. Now you can install the lock/door handle and related rods. If you have the right clips, you just turn the adjustment barrel on the push button, and "snap" the end into the clip. The lock rods are fixed (again there is a left/right), and just snap into the star wheel mechanism.
11. The mirror can be put on at anytime.
12. The inside door pull and lock belcrank can be installed last.

Good luck!!!

Mike Coletta

Some afterthoughts:
1. Install the cat wiskers to the stainless OUT of the car, and install the outer assemblies after the glass is in the door, but BEFORE you attach the glass to the regulator. The inboard assembly will go on last.
2. The upper window stops should also be installed AFTER the glass is put into the door, but BEFORE you attach it to the regulator.

Dave Hadley

Thanks to all, this is a tremendous help.

toms silver 60

Looks more like major PITA!
I'm very glad Mike did mine.
Good luck.

havasumark

Just wanted to say thanks to Mike and Jim for posting this door/window assembly process. This will be a great help tp me as I'm approaching this step in the restoration process on my 62 corvette.
Thanks again,
Mark

Frankie the Fink

Well here is another little tidbit then to help you get the regulators in while staying sane:

havasumark

Thanks Frankie,
This will come in handy. I brings back bad memories of when I took them out roughly 10 years ago. This will make the install process a pleasant one.....unlike the removal process LoL!!!

Thanks,
Mark

dcstreetrods

Mike
i hope you can help me with a big problem. I am assembling a resto mod 61 new everything include paint. I installed my door latches yesterday. The passenger side is now jammed closed. It will open about one inch and then hits something metal to metal. I think it might be catching on the "hook" at the bottom of the latch. I have loosened the door hinges and tried to lift the door but it still catches and will not open. Any ideas will be much appreciated.

Sabre34

PM sent.