Pilot Dan

Inspired by the unusually good weather in the Northeast, and some recent forum posts, I decided to give another try to installing the Hardtop on my 59 and see if I can finally figure out why it does not fit well around the door glass windows.

A little history, the car was a soft top only car, bought the top in the 80's and had it painted along with the car but never tried to install it. It has it's original windows and weatherstriping in place. It's been in storage (standing up on the header and rear window leaning evenly against the wall).

THE PROBLEM: As the photo's show, my biggest problem is the door window gap on the right side is uneven. Also, I can't get the left hold down bolt hole to line up (top is 1/4 inch too far back) which coincidentally is the gap (uniform) at the left rear window. I can drive with it the way it is with 2 bolts in the rear and the front latched down, but it does not look right.




NOTE GAPS AT TOP AND SIDE


LEFT HOLD DOWN OFF 1/4" REARWARD


LEFT WINDOW GAP SAME 1/4" TOO WIDE (AS MOUNTING HOLE ABOVE)


FIT AROUND THE DECKLID IS PRETTY GOOD

I re did the Windshield when I painted the car but did not specifically fit it to the Hard top. It has all the correct gaskets in place and ONE RUBBER SHIM on each side of the Windshield posts. The Windshield fits well as does the Soft Top and the door posts. I adjusted the windows as much as possible and the door gaps, and rear deck lid alignment are as good as possible also. I don't use the Top enough to justify sending it out for a complete restoration, but I would like to make it fit and function better if there are some things I could do myself. What do you think??? Pilot Dan

Frankie the Fink

I have to coax my bolts to line up a little too....not that unusual. Also,as I found out when installing power windows, there are window stop adjustments down inside the door at the stainless garnish level that control the height of the windows when rolled up...I had to play with mine to negotiate the best fit between the hardtop and softop.

Pilot Dan

Yes, I had adjusted the window stops. It seems like the adjustment would need to come from the front as it is off by equal amounts in 2 places on the left side. The right side looks a lot like Bill's did (WM62) before Glassworks fixed it.

wmf62

two thoughts...

yes, it does take a bit of finagling to get but rear bolts in. i have founfd it is easiest to start the deck bolts and then pull the front of the top around till the pins drop in, then latch the latches.

looking at your gap between the window frame and the quarter window AND what appears to be the gap between the window frame and the top weatherstrip near the quarter window; it looks as though it might be possible to raise the rear window stop a bit more than the front window stop (both need to be raised) and cause the window frame to tip a bit, which will close up the frame/quarter gap and the frame/top gap at the rear of the window.



my top was damaged on the pass side, so that's the reason for mine being off.

Bill

JohnZ

In the plant, 2-top cars were built with the hardtop in place first on the Trim Line, and the glass was adjusted to fit the hardtop seals. Then the hardtop was removed, and when the soft top was installed later on the Final Line, the soft top frame was adjusted to fit the glass. Had to be done that way, as you can't "adjust" the hardtop.

Frankie the Fink

Only way to do it that makes sense

Seriously though....I think the OP could adjust the stops enough to make that gap, if not perfect, very acceptable...

Of course the "new wave" of restoration techniques requires a laser level

Pilot Dan

I read quite a few threads on the NCRS forum that seem to suggest adjusting the windshield by adding additional shims under the end posts which would bring everything forward. I could get the Hardtop much better aligned if I could move the windhield header forward 1/4 inch which may be doable with more shims.
No more adjustment is possible on the door glass height to change that angle. I already did that and oriented the right side forward as much as possible. Sounds like I have a project ahead of me. Thanks for the reply, makes sense.

Pilot Dan

Bill, first of all this is all your fault for having a problem similar to mine and FIXING IT The pictures did inspire me to give it a go and let's see how big a can of worms this opens. If I can move the windshield forward, I may be able to move the door post forward and in turn the window. I'll have to think on it since everything else fits well now when the Hardtop is off.

silver67

How is the soft top frame adjustable?

Kerrmudgeon

In my experience most need a little push to coax the bolt tabs to line up at the back.
And if the windows fit your soft top good, I wouldn't mess with it, that's the one you'll have in use 95% of the time. Also there is play in the window mechanism, try pushing the window up and forward at the back by hand with the door open, then close it.....you'll be surprised!

wmf62

i accept responsibility.... i lived with mine for over 30 years before doing anything about it... ; no reason for you to do the same...

you can try rocking the windshield forward by loosening the nuts on the windshiels post studs and then a few of the t-bolt nuts.

that was the first thing Glassworks suggested but all it did in my case was aggravate the gap between the top front on the window and the top's weatherstrip. if you find it works, then adding some shims under the post should hold it in place



but, until you try you won't know for sure

Bill

Ironcross

I would say the car is the problem, not the top....either this was 2 top car or someone added the hardtop hold downs at a later date but in the wrong location....or the car was hit hard in back....or a windshield problem...which I would target that idea...the hardtops are all the same which the early Vettes had but two choices and are not interchangeable....tho some have attempted such a cross fitting...and the soft tops are flexible enough that a poor fit could easily get by unnoticed.....Previous owner might help if still available

Pilot Dan

Bill, I was thinking something like that. My plan is to remove the front pins from the Hardtop so I can move it freely over the windshield header and see if the gaps improve. If so, I will go forward with the Windshield adjustment.


Probably right since I added the Hardtop. It was born a rag top and 30+ years ago I had a chance to pick up this Hardtop very reasonably, so I went for it.

Pilot Dan

I finally made some progress today and think I have solved part of my problem. As the pictures show, I was not able to get the left hold down bolt in and by measuring was able to determine the distance the bolt alignment was off coincided with the excess spacing on the drivers side window.

So, I removed everything to study the windshield frame and discovered that the drivers side top of the windshield post has a ROUND hole for the receiver pin to enter where the passenger side has an ELONGATED hole (more of a slot). Never noticed that before. Got me to thinking and I reinstalled the top starting on the left side with the bolt that would not previously align working my way center then right. Got all the bolts started and gave a shove at the drivers side header pin and it went in, follwed by the passenger side which on my car wanted to follow instead of lead previously.

Result, now the fit is good on the left side and the gap is better on the right and I think I have found a problem with the rear window track on the right door causing that problem. Hope this helps others who may have a similar fit problem.

wmf62

Bill

Stan's Customs

Stan..

mike coletta

Dan,
The left (drivers) post is ALWAYS located (pinned) first. That goes for hardtop and soft. All 56-62 posts have the same arrangement to compensate for variances in the tops/glass/body etc. It's probably a good reason to leave laser levels out of the mix. LOL.

Mike Coletta

Pilot Dan

Mike thanks for confirming that. Since the left side is OK now, I am working on the right door glass trying to get it to sit further rearward. Have the whole right door torn apart and have isolated the problem to the front window run track roller guide. I need to figure a way to move it 1/8 rearwards. Fun times, stay tuned... I'll figure a way to make it work. As you mentioned in another post, glad I did not mess with the windshield as a first reaction, that would have been a big swing and a miss.