R-M Diamont paint...?? Opinions?
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
R-M Diamont paint...?? Opinions?
It looks as if I may have the services of an accompolished painter on my project... Well I did have at least...even though today he seems a slightly less enthusiastic. We'll see I guess.....could just be me?
While he is comfortable spraying anything that I want...in fact said that whatever I really wanted would be fine..no problem! The subject really came up over metallics like B/C silvers.
Since Silver Metalic used to be more difficult for less experienced painters back in the day ...I wanted to test the water regarding his comfort zone. Silver Metallic seems to be no issue for him at all.
At that point I asked him if he had a paint that he personally perferred over the others. He said that he was really comfortable with all the quality paints...but had had good results with R-M Diamont, and had used it quite a lot. I had planned on PPG...but maybe, using something he has used extensively, would be better for the project?
What think ye gentlemen...about R-M Diamont paint. Good , Bad or Indifferent....particularly for a metallic silver base /clear??
....and of course , by all means state "your" favorite base/clear product, assuming the end result MUST be NICE.
Thanks...Stan
While he is comfortable spraying anything that I want...in fact said that whatever I really wanted would be fine..no problem! The subject really came up over metallics like B/C silvers.
Since Silver Metalic used to be more difficult for less experienced painters back in the day ...I wanted to test the water regarding his comfort zone. Silver Metallic seems to be no issue for him at all.
At that point I asked him if he had a paint that he personally perferred over the others. He said that he was really comfortable with all the quality paints...but had had good results with R-M Diamont, and had used it quite a lot. I had planned on PPG...but maybe, using something he has used extensively, would be better for the project?
What think ye gentlemen...about R-M Diamont paint. Good , Bad or Indifferent....particularly for a metallic silver base /clear??
....and of course , by all means state "your" favorite base/clear product, assuming the end result MUST be NICE.
Thanks...Stan
#2
Le Mans Master
R-M is a middle of the road paint made by BASF. Glasurit (made by BASF as well) is far superior BUT it's very expensive.
Most paint makers produce different qualilty lines of paint. PPG for example has "Value-Pro", "Omni" and "Shop-Line" which in my opinion are crap, but they also have "Deltron" which is very good.
I like the Dupont ChromaPremier system. When I paint my 65 in a few months, I'll be using Pro-Spray base and SPI clear.
There aren't any bargains when buying paint. You get what you pay for.
Jim
Most paint makers produce different qualilty lines of paint. PPG for example has "Value-Pro", "Omni" and "Shop-Line" which in my opinion are crap, but they also have "Deltron" which is very good.
I like the Dupont ChromaPremier system. When I paint my 65 in a few months, I'll be using Pro-Spray base and SPI clear.
There aren't any bargains when buying paint. You get what you pay for.
Jim
Last edited by 1snake; 01-31-2012 at 08:31 PM.
#3
Le Mans Master
Used to shoot R-M lacquer back in the 70's-80s. I really like Glasurit 55 line, will shoot my '67 with it. Have used PPG on a few projects, I thought the old "Deltron" was pretty good. My buddy shoots nothing but Spies Hecker now, easy to use system and looks great and cheaper than Glasurit. Last car I shot I used SPI base and Universal clear on. SPI stopped selling base colors, but their primers and clears are great value, I thought the Universal clear took some getting used to when shooting it, maybe because its a high solids clear?? Another friend shoots only Sherwin Williams, I think its more about what you are used to using.
BTW, don't event think about spraying these primers/paints/clears without a Fresh Air Supply Respirator and protective clothing, its all nasty sh*t.
Last edited by Scott Marzahl; 01-31-2012 at 09:15 PM.
#4
Le Mans Master
Jim
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
R-M is a middle of the road paint made by BASF. Glasurit (made by BASF as well) is far superior BUT it's very expensive.
Most paint makers produce different qualilty lines of paint. PPG for example has "Value-Pro", "Omni" and "Shop-Line" which in my opinion are crap, but they also have "Deltron" which is very good.
I like the Dupont ChromaPremier system. When I paint my 65 in a few months, I'll be using Pro-Spray base and SPI clear.
There aren't any bargains when buying paint. You get what you pay for.
Jim
Most paint makers produce different qualilty lines of paint. PPG for example has "Value-Pro", "Omni" and "Shop-Line" which in my opinion are crap, but they also have "Deltron" which is very good.
I like the Dupont ChromaPremier system. When I paint my 65 in a few months, I'll be using Pro-Spray base and SPI clear.
There aren't any bargains when buying paint. You get what you pay for.
Jim
Quote: Glasurit (made by BASF as well) is far superior BUT it's very expensive.
What would be a guess as to the difference in the price of the R-M and the Glasurit? Just curious as maybe some others will be ...I don't know within $500 dollars.
I would also like to know what makes a paint really superior...not talking about any of the value lines, but what separates the best (like Glasurit) from the rest.
Being around car business all my life...I've seen some very decent paint jobs with less than the best. Not much exposure to the best in that element...so I don't really know what the main difference is after you get past a certain level.
Maybe someone could enlighten me a little?
...not that I plan on scimping on material cost at all. I was just seeing if I could make it easier on the painter..and still use material he had intimate knowledge about. Regardless..a value line paint is not what will be used.
Thanks..Stan
Last edited by Stan's Customs; 02-01-2012 at 01:26 AM.
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Used to shoot R-M lacquer back in the 70's-80s. I really like Glasurit 55 line, will shoot my '67 with it. Have used PPG on a few projects, I thought the old "Deltron" was pretty good. My buddy shoots nothing but Spies Hecker now, easy to use system and looks great and cheaper than Glasurit. Last car I shot I used SPI base and Universal clear on. SPI stopped selling base colors, but their primers and clears are great value, I thought the Universal clear took some getting used to when shooting it, maybe because its a high solids clear?? Another friend shoots only Sherwin Williams, I think its more about what you are used to using.
BTW, don't event think about spraying these primers/paints/clears without a Fresh Air Supply Respirator and protective clothing, its all nasty sh*t.
Is there some way to use a shop compressor for the fresh air?? I know the compressor air is warm and sometimes a little oily on big shop compressors. I do have water traps and good filtration for the air supply lines and paint guns.
Any recommendations where to buy a reasonably priced fresh air system...for a hobby shop, 1 or 2 paint jobs a year? Most of the locals I know use 3-M respirators..no fresh air supply on piece work.
Stan..
Last edited by Stan's Customs; 02-01-2012 at 01:36 AM.
#8
Le Mans Master
Well I was young and dumb once, shot a '65 mustang with Deltron and was sick as a dog using a 3M charcoal mask in a home garage. I should have known better, one painter that worked in my grandad's shop when Imron first came out ended up in the hospital using a charcoal mask. There was little to no information on how bad it was.
You can often find clean used Supplied Air System brand on Ebay for $400-$500 also new ones. New from Summit for less than $700, you have to decide if your lungs and kidneys and life are worth that before you use a cheap charcoal respirator that does not work with Isocyanates. Gloves, a paint suit and sealed eye protection are needed.
http://www.sp2.org/newsletters/sp2vo...1iss8topic.php
What's the difference in paint quality, in a nutshell, namely the polymers, quality of pigments used and amount of solids in the paint. It may take you 4 coats to shoot a panel with cheap paint to get coverage vs 2 coats of quality paint.
You can often find clean used Supplied Air System brand on Ebay for $400-$500 also new ones. New from Summit for less than $700, you have to decide if your lungs and kidneys and life are worth that before you use a cheap charcoal respirator that does not work with Isocyanates. Gloves, a paint suit and sealed eye protection are needed.
http://www.sp2.org/newsletters/sp2vo...1iss8topic.php
What's the difference in paint quality, in a nutshell, namely the polymers, quality of pigments used and amount of solids in the paint. It may take you 4 coats to shoot a panel with cheap paint to get coverage vs 2 coats of quality paint.
Last edited by Scott Marzahl; 02-01-2012 at 09:56 AM.
#9
Le Mans Master
I bought my supplied air from these guys. Len is a great guy and has been a painter forever. He also has a forum. http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/m...tegory_Code=HP
Jim
Jim
#11
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#14
Drifting
be very careful of just using a reg air compressor. if you go that way, find out what filters
the dive shops use. too many contaminants in those plain compressors. should have pre and after filters i believe. jmho jim
been years since i was a sport diver.
the dive shops use. too many contaminants in those plain compressors. should have pre and after filters i believe. jmho jim
been years since i was a sport diver.
#15
Drifting
R-M is a middle of the road paint made by BASF. Glasurit (made by BASF as well) is far superior BUT it's very expensive.
Most paint makers produce different qualilty lines of paint. PPG for example has "Value-Pro", "Omni" and "Shop-Line" which in my opinion are crap, but they also have "Deltron" which is very good.
I like the Dupont ChromaPremier system. When I paint my 65 in a few months, I'll be using Pro-Spray base and SPI clear.
There aren't any bargains when buying paint. You get what you pay for.
Jim
Most paint makers produce different qualilty lines of paint. PPG for example has "Value-Pro", "Omni" and "Shop-Line" which in my opinion are crap, but they also have "Deltron" which is very good.
I like the Dupont ChromaPremier system. When I paint my 65 in a few months, I'll be using Pro-Spray base and SPI clear.
There aren't any bargains when buying paint. You get what you pay for.
Jim
#16
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Did you know Diamont is the domestic version of glasurit? they interchange with each other aside from tint #s they are the same I have a RM diamont mixing bank and it is not middle of the road paint . Lessonal is sikens cheap line and is also ok . IMO PPG has always been a low grade paint . Dupont Chroma base is good most likely the best for covering up less than perfect prep as it will fill 400 scratches and drys fast enough not to lift feather edges . We use Diamont on our strip and paints and either lessonal or Chromabase for our cheap resale paint jobs.
...and maybe my painter does know something after all ??
How do you like the clears......
Stan...
#17
Did you know Diamont is the domestic version of glasurit? they interchange with each other aside from tint #s they are the same I have a RM diamont mixing bank and it is not middle of the road paint . Lessonal is sikens cheap line and is also ok . IMO PPG has always been a low grade paint . Dupont Chroma base is good most likely the best for covering up less than perfect prep as it will fill 400 scratches and drys fast enough not to lift feather edges . We use Diamont on our strip and paints and either lessonal or Chromabase for our cheap resale paint jobs.
#18
Drifting
Diamont on my '66 GTO I've had since high school. Painted 1990, won best paint awards and 'best in show' at a 1500 car, show. Has help up incredibly well.
Last edited by karkrafter; 05-20-2016 at 11:22 PM.
#19
Burning Brakes
I painted my 64 Corvette with Diamont back in 2002 and it still looks like the day I painted it. When I taught paint and body Diamont was all we used. Very good system, you won't go wrong with Diamont.
Diamont is very much like lacquer the base color is not activated. It can be reduced and saved. The clear is activated.
Speaking of Imron when I started painting there was enamel and lacquer. Enamel would fade out after about 6 months and lacquer had to be sanded and polished, very time consuming. So we would paint it in lacquer and then put 2 coats of Imron clear over the lacquer to keep from polishing it.
Diamont is very much like lacquer the base color is not activated. It can be reduced and saved. The clear is activated.
Speaking of Imron when I started painting there was enamel and lacquer. Enamel would fade out after about 6 months and lacquer had to be sanded and polished, very time consuming. So we would paint it in lacquer and then put 2 coats of Imron clear over the lacquer to keep from polishing it.
Last edited by 64Corvette; 05-20-2016 at 10:16 PM.