wmf62

ya know, if i didn't care about original (and i don't....); i'd take Doug's suggestion one step further and fabricate a one piece copper tubing section that includes not only the original bend but would continue up and through the firewall. that would make that whole in-car section leakproof. something similar could be done to the other hose section.
Bill

Frankie the Fink

Not trying to re-engineer it just don't need a dump out of coolant on those hot Orlando July days in traffic...

wmf62

Frank
you're no fun.....

Bill

tach drive 61

today i brave my 42 degree garage northern heat wave ! oil/change and valve adjustment !

AZDoug

Ya, know, those heater control valves aren't all THAT expensive, and if they leak, they will must likely leak at the plunger rod seal, so iffn it was me, i would replace the damn thing as long as you are under there.

Ain't no fun working under there, and coolant all over your new carpet is a real bummer, and a (most likely) 51 YO part with a rubber seal is waiting for the right time, or jostling, to fail.

I do like Bills idea about a complete copper Ell thru the firewall. Only reason GM didn't do that was rubber hose was cheaper than an extra 6" of copper pipe.

Doug

corvette-62

But some how it looks smaller than the one on my '62.

mike coletta

Frank.......replace it, and that's all I'm gonna say!!

Mike Coletta

62Jeff

It's a reproduction part from some time in the mid 1980s. I had a metal box on there until the cardboard ones were available. I installed it before taking the car to Bloomington in 1990. I can't say how accurate the cardboard one is, but I do remember it being much more expensive than the more durable but incorrect metal box.

Frankie the Fink

I think you know by now Mike that if you say to do it...I d@mn sure usually do it...or else I seem to always regret it later on !

Heater control valve has been ordered !

Redbird

Cardboard was the real deal on the heater. Early 62 #0029.

Ironcross

M2400 is just a 90 degree elbow, not what or even close...... a ordinary by-pass hose......and at 10 bucks is a joke.....you didn`t read my reply very well....the Gates hose has the elbow molded into it and at lengths up to 48 inches long...not a small by-pass hose...appears to be a 396/427 hose......

you have to do better than that an on an on......do you have another example....or maybe the customers are the ones not smart to pay 10 bucks for a by-pass hose and then shipping....... Get Gates on line,,,,

1snake

In your original post you stated "I dont think the Corvette parts stores are smart enough to have them".
I was merely pointing out that they all have them. That is all.

Jim

Steve59

I know that this post is a little old, but I just did my heater hoses on my 59 and it seems that the hoses are much longer than needed, Maybe 6" to 12" to long (at least the 3/4 return). Frank did you have to cut yours down or did you just kind of let them hang by the inner fender?

Frankie the Fink

Yes my 'correct' hoses were a little long...however they shouldn't be 'hanging' anywhere .. there is a double bracket that holds them up under the passenger side of the engine compartment on the fender and they then go from the firewall through the inner fender clamp on to another clamp up under the generator to the engine...not much slack for anything to hang at all.

i also put TWO cut off valves in the heater hoses under the passenger fender and cut them OFF last week and even with the climbing Orlando temps I swear the car runs noticeably cooler and the cockpit as well. Maybe I'm on to something here...

Redbird

I think the extra foot was for the pump to the expansion tank. Hope these photos help off my 62.

Steve59

That's pretty much the way mine are routed. From the firewall, through the double clip under the passenger side fender, down kinda under the generator, through another oval type clip and then to the respective nipples. My 3/4 hose was about 6 inches too long and caused a crimp at the motor mount (or hung down and would ride on the ignition shielding wing nut), the 5/8 hose was about 2 inches too long and hit the generator bracket. Had to cut both to fit. Looks pretty good now.

However, next question. I tried to save the heater control valve, it's original and has the capillary tube. It leaks. I did buy a replacement valve but it looks significantly different. I'll use the new one if I have to, but does anyone know if the old valves can be repaired and if so, who repairs them?

Frankie the Fink

I don't think you'll find a soul that repairs those...as the capillary tube was eliminated w-a-y back and is not a recent thing with the current repro parts. It just didn't do anything significant. Put the new valve in and keep on truckin.... If its really buggin' ya...you could take a run by Tom DeWitt on here...if he doesn't know anybody then it just ain't gonna happen.

Redbird - we need to talk about your engine bay....I've got some extra GM orange spray paint if you need it!

Steve59

Frank:
Appreciate the info. A guy on the NCRS forum gave me the name of a guy who sells them on Ebay. I took a look at the pic of the item he sells and the valve looks like the one I bought from CC with the capillary attached. My original (I believe), looks different. It's not black and the cable attachment is sorta round and not square like the repro, also, the capillary is much bigger.

In any event, decided to use the "new" one. Will keep the original and hope some day to find a rebuilder. Thanks again.
Steve

1snake

The cockpit may be cooler but if there's any difference in engine temp., it will be higher with them closed as the heater core is nothing more than an additional radiator. That heat has to go somewhere, cockpit or engine. Your choice.

Jim

Redbird

Frankie, Can't touch much in the engine bay. Car will be taken to San Diego in June for Star Bowtie judging.