Super T10 in a C1(61)
04-15-2012, 12:21 AM
#21
Racer
I didn't have any clearance problems . as far as the drive shaft goes I had a new one made up with the first design super t-10, I don't remember if I had to change the length. But I would not use a stock unit . Have a new one made up withe a chrome molly tube. When you have the trans in just push the yoke in as far as it will go and pull it out 1 inch and measure the distance from the center to center of the u joints, make shure you have the weight on the rear axle. I don't run a 4 speed any more but i still have that trans with the shifter I will take a picture of the adapter plate and send it to you.
04-16-2012, 05:18 PM
#22
Pro
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2010
Location: North Las Vegas Nevada
Posts: 560
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I didn't have any clearance problems . as far as the drive shaft goes I had a new one made up with the first design super t-10, I don't remember if I had to change the length. But I would not use a stock unit . Have a new one made up withe a chrome molly tube. When you have the trans in just push the yoke in as far as it will go and pull it out 1 inch and measure the distance from the center to center of the u joints, make shure you have the weight on the rear axle. I don't run a 4 speed any more but i still have that trans with the shifter I will take a picture of the adapter plate and send it to you.
Do you recall if you had to modify the shift linkage at all?
I've decided to go ahead with the ST10 swap. It gets me the ratios I need (with room to go to a 3.08 diff if the highway rpm really begins to bug me) for the same cost as a rebuilt muncie.
I will do my best to document the swap for future reference.
Thanks for everyone's input, advice and offers!
DT
04-16-2012, 08:28 PM
#23
Racer
Pictures would be greatly appreciated! Thank you!
Do you recall if you had to modify the shift linkage at all?
I've decided to go ahead with the ST10 swap. It gets me the ratios I need (with room to go to a 3.08 diff if the highway rpm really begins to bug me) for the same cost as a rebuilt muncie.
I will do my best to document the swap for future reference.
Thanks for everyone's input, advice and offers!
DT
Do you recall if you had to modify the shift linkage at all?
I've decided to go ahead with the ST10 swap. It gets me the ratios I need (with room to go to a 3.08 diff if the highway rpm really begins to bug me) for the same cost as a rebuilt muncie.
I will do my best to document the swap for future reference.
Thanks for everyone's input, advice and offers!
DT
Here's some pictures
04-17-2012, 12:38 PM
#24
Pro
Thread Starter
Member Since: May 2010
Location: North Las Vegas Nevada
Posts: 560
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
So it looks like I will have to:
1. Replace clutch disk.
2. Make adapter plate to reposition shifter.
3. Modify or make new driveshaft for 32 spline yoke and check for proper length.
Thanks for the pics!
DT
04-27-2012, 06:18 PM
#25
Instructor
Member Since: Jan 2007
Location: The Hills TX
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My 62 came with a t-10. I have had many transmisions. 1st desine super t-10 with an iron case and the 2nd disine super t-10 with an iron case also a 2.88 first gear. I used a hurst comp plus shifter , I had to make an adapter plate out of some 3/16 inch steel that mounted on the trans first with som flat head cap screws, then drilled and tapped holes to remount the shifter in it's new location.I had to get a new yoke that was for 32 spline and made a new drive shaft.
With everything in proper position, the 3/4 lever on the hurst shifter hits the top of the crossmember where the exhaust goes thru. I have tried raising the transmission, but then the front u-joint hits the tunnel.
Your adapter plate would allow me to raise the shifter slightly while leaving the transmission at the right level.
Thanks! At least I know a solution! What a great tool the search function is. Now I just need to fab an adapter plate.
