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How is the original Rochester fuel injection for regular driving?

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Old 05-05-2012, 01:37 PM
  #41  
MikeM
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Originally Posted by Mike Ward
Dan- this seems to be a regional thing only. MikeM has no issues with E10 in his area nor do people up this way.
I have no isssues as long as the gasoline I have in storage is kept in sealed containers to keep the alcohol from attracting water.

I have had issues with E10, several years past before I understood the necessity of keeping moisture out of the fuel. You get some moisture in the fuel, it'll mix and run on through but maybe not really well. You get too much moisture in your fuel and the engine wither won't run, run poorly and/or, sooner or later, you'll have a wad of snotty looking glob hanging around the main jet(s) in your carburetor. The first sign of this is you'll notice (small engines) you have to run the engine with the choke partially on. The next sign, the engine will eventually stall.

It's been my experience, when E10 evaporates, it leaves little/no deposits behind. If it does, it probably had water in it and that's what makes the gooey deposit.

I just started up a 30 year old weedeater this morning that hadn't been run in about five years. Sat empty of fuel. I put fresh E10 in it,(no primer bulb) pulled the starter rope four times and it fired and ran perfect. Fired my Sportster up the other day. it hasn't been run since last fall. Fired right up and idled fine. I have cars that don't get started but every couple years but they start run with no problem.

That's my general experience with E10. Just keep the water out of it and no problems.
Old 05-05-2012, 02:00 PM
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BLACK62
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Originally Posted by MikeM
In another thread, you had bought your car and paid a premium for an "orginal" engine, only to find out it was a restamp! You said you were going to send the car back. Then said you and the dealer had come to some agreement.

Do I have you confused with someone else?
You are not confused at all - that is my story, but I wasn't sure what you meant saying if it runs - grab it? I think I need to be VERY careful this time!!
Old 05-05-2012, 02:21 PM
  #43  
Ironcross
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all kinds of expert opinions here, especially those that never owned one as new or at any time are probably the best.....

there cute aren't they and everyone should own one

wait until one of the new FI owners hydraulics the engine, now that's a whole new experience that was never mentioned and almost uniquely limited to FI Vettes......



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Last edited by Ironcross; 02-10-2014 at 06:19 PM.
Old 05-05-2012, 02:24 PM
  #44  
32361ARTHUR
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Originally Posted by MikeM
I have no isssues as long as the gasoline I have in storage is kept in sealed containers to keep the alcohol from attracting water.

I have had issues with E10, several years past before I understood the necessity of keeping moisture out of the fuel. You get some moisture in the fuel, it'll mix and run on through but maybe not really well. You get too much moisture in your fuel and the engine wither won't run, run poorly and/or, sooner or later, you'll have a wad of snotty looking glob hanging around the main jet(s) in your carburetor. The first sign of this is you'll notice (small engines) you have to run the engine with the choke partially on. The next sign, the engine will eventually stall.

It's been my experience, when E10 evaporates, it leaves little/no deposits behind. If it does, it probably had water in it and that's what makes the gooey deposit.

I just started up a 30 year old weedeater this morning that hadn't been run in about five years. Sat empty of fuel. I put fresh E10 in it,(no primer bulb) pulled the starter rope four times and it fired and ran perfect. Fired my Sportster up the other day. it hasn't been run since last fall. Fired right up and idled fine. I have cars that don't get started but every couple years but they start run with no problem.

That's my general experience with E10. Just keep the water out of it and no problems.
I wish my experience was as good as yours. Here in Las Vegas we don't get much moisture so I can't blame that for my gas problems. My cars and trucks seem to do alright with the pump gas but not my antique bikes (TRIUMPH, VINCENT, ARIEL, HARLEY,) or my old outboard motor. I think it might be because we get the same blend they use for Los Angeles which is only 91 octane with additives to make the California Air Resource Board happy. I and others here in Las Vegas have turned to racing gas with no further problems. Since most of the vehicles that we put racing gas in sit for longer periods and even when ridden don't use all their gas up the gas can get to be quite old. I am fortunate that the price of race gas isn't to big an issue with me and this solves all my problems. I wish we still had the same gas we had when I was a kid in the fifties, that stuff smelled good and would stay good for years. Times change and it is what it is. I have V8 small blocks in two of my bikes and they present no problems on the 91 pump gas but they get ridden often and are always getting fresh gas in them.

Last edited by 32361ARTHUR; 05-05-2012 at 02:29 PM.
Old 02-10-2014, 04:26 AM
  #45  
sptrainboy
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Mike M .....what fuel injection system is this in the picture. I am interested in a Rochester FI unit....
thanks

Last edited by sptrainboy; 02-10-2014 at 04:29 AM.
Old 02-10-2014, 09:24 AM
  #46  
BLACK62
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Originally Posted by sptrainboy
Mike M .....what fuel injection system is this in the picture. I am interested in a Rochester FI unit....
thanks
Mine was the original Rochester but I found out the car was not at all as presented to me. IE having original motor etc but just a restamped engine to spears to be original and pump up the price. I made a deal and returned that Corvette at considerable cost but now have an authentic all original 62 with all original parts including engine. But not fuel injection. I doubt there are many truly original FILE engine cars out there because people bought that hot engine to go and they were used pretty hard. Watch out for fakes!!
Old 02-10-2014, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by BLACK62

Watch out for fakes!!
I think it's better said to not pay extra for "fakes", whatever fake is.

My '63 is a fake but I didn't pay extra for the car, I just built it that way and it runs like a demon! Shows good as original too!

So, the only difference I can see between a real one and a fake is about $20K on the price of the car and like you said, probably most of the ones remaining in the market are "fakes". Whatever that is.



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