supersport396

I just had my 66 326 rebuilt at Pat Musi's. Had to go .060 over and used a 350hp spec cam & compression lowered to 9.5:1.

I have a 1111069 distributor which is a 64 365hp unit & want to set it up correctly for my application.

Any advidce as to what weights/springs/can/initial/mechanical/total timing etc. to use? Should I just shoot for the 350 HP distributor specs?

Thanks
Brian

JohnZ

The 350hp distributor specs should work fine for your application.

Jebbysan

If you lowered the compression to 9.5 to 1 try:
12-14 initial/ 36-38 degrees total.
It will like more lead with less cylinder pressure.
The stock 0/24 is a little limp wristed.
First thing guys did when these cars were new was bump the timing and recurve.

The stock distributor should pull 24 with the weights that are on it....spring you will have to play with....but all in by 2800 seems to
work best as even with a 3.36 axle like I have, 4th gear=3000rpm.

You want the advance all in at cruising speed...makes for smooth running...and decent mileage.

I get 15mpg@ 70mph with the 14/37 degree setup. And it plain purrs at that speed.

Jebby

supersport396

Jebby,

The stock distributor spec is 24 @ 2350rpm. you think that's too soon?

JohnZ

Shouldn't be an issue with your reduced compression ratio; all-in at 2350 was a little touchy with the original 11:1 compression - some ran better with the curve lengthened to 2800 or so.

Jebbysan

I believe it is with todays fuels.....bring it in too early under a heavy load and it will ping....especially with a stick....

Back then they set timing light to accomodate everyone...everywhere....and to cover their ***....
The fuel quality was better then as well.....

You fail to mention what cam they used......this will affect base timing.

I read an article recently where they tested two 327's and two 350's
built to stock spec for a comparo....they all made peak power at 36 degrees. It is just where a Chevy likes to be....around that number....dyno'd hundreds of them....funny thing is a well tuned Big Block Open Chamber likes to be around there too!

Mr Gasket makes a cheap curve kit for the old distributors and you can play with that.....
To do it without a curve machine you need an MSD timing tape on the stock balancer though.

Peace!
Jebby

Jebbysan

And not to debunk John Z.....I mean it might ping say....
climbing in fourth at 45 MPH with your foot in it.....that is a
lot of load....

Free running second...or third gear...you may never hear anything...

Jebby

supersport396

It's a 327 350 copy...i forgot what brand. How much vacum do you think or what canister to use?

Jebbysan

The settings I gave you should work just fine....I run 14 initial with the same cam.

Vacuum cannister should be an Acell or MSD adjustable....screwing in the screw throught the port with an allen clockwise will give you more advance and vice versa.

I don't have much vacuum advance.....it pulls about 6 more degrees at cruising speed....that is all my motor wants...although I run a 3.36 reargear and my cam is degreed tight already at 106 intake c/l

You will have to do the cruising dyno and adjust for best results....

This seems like a lot of text and work....but when you get it right it is forever and makes the difference between a finely tuned ride....and one that somebody is constantly messing with.....

Enjoy!

Jebby

JohnZ

What's your manifold vacuum reading at normal idle? That's what determines the specs for a vacuum advance unit.

supersport396

Yes, you're right. Befor the rebuild, it was around 18-19 but i haven't really done more on this than break in the cam and change the oil so I will play with that next.

Thank you and Jebby for your input!!!