bobwoodkat

I just posted another video on youtube. I have a couple questions for the Corvette guys to help me answer about the driveshaft markings.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mYxYYEgJPAM

JohnZ

Photo attached of an original driveshaft, showing the blue and orange paint rings and the green dab at the rear; the green dab (which signifies the light side of the trunnion after balancing) was to be aligned with a blue paint dab on the pinion flange when installing the driveshaft (see note in your Assembly Manual, UPC 4, sheet A2). All midyears used exactly the same driveshaft, regardless of engine/transmission/diff combination.

You have an excellent technical reference library, but the one book I don't see, which has ALL the detail information you need for a correct restoration, is the NCRS 1966 Corvette Technical Information Manual & Judging Guide (247 pages); it's available from the NCRS on-line store at www.ncrs.org.

bobwoodkat

Thank you for the info John. Looking at your picture I can see how your driveshaft was raw when the lines and dap were put on there but if you look at mine you can see they were painted over black. My question is did this sometimes happen at the factory? Also your picture has the 2 stripes and dab at the same ends where mine are on opposite ends.

I plan on getting that book I just joined NCRS this week. The car isn't going to be a full blown restoration because I plan on driving it on nice weekends. I want to get things right so that down the road if someone wants to make it a fully restored garage queen they will have a very good car to work with. I also want to bring up things like casting #s and dates and how it is suppose to look even if I don't do it that way so guys can look at my videos and the comments to get answers to questions they may have on their midyear.

KS69Coupe

Wow, what a project. My '66 was an 8 year restoration, finished in 1986. You've already gotten some great advice about pictures, zip lock bags, label everything, throw nothing and take more pictures as you go. Enjoy the journey. Looking forward to your updates. Here's a little something to get your imagination going.

Kevin

bobwoodkat

[QUOTE=KS69Coupe;1581511507]Wow, what a project. My '66 was an 8 year restoration, finished in 1986. You've already gotten some great advice about pictures, zip lock bags, label everything, throw nothing and take more pictures as you go. Enjoy the journey. Looking forward to your updates. Here's a little something to get your imagination going.

Kevin

Sweet 66 Kevin!! In my one video I showed where I had cabinets on the wall that came crashing down when that happened most of my marked boxes and coffee cans crashed all over the floor so I have lots of stuff to resort. Lucky me

JohnZ

The GM driveshaft drawing doesn't show the two paint rings at all - only the green or yellow paint dab adjacent to the rear U-joint; I've seen the original paint rings at the front or at the rear, but generally they're at the rear.

woodsdesign

The best advise I can give is that you have to do something just about every day. Even if it is just detailing a part to get it ready to install.
The biggest mistake you can make is doing nothing. Take it little by little and enjoy.

bobwoodkat

This is real good advise, it is so easy to miss a few days then you go out and think "I didn't get anything done". Next thing you know you are getting fustrated and trying hard to get caught back up which you never do and those little things start to mount and before you know it you lose interest. I know all about doing that because I did it twice with this car. Thank you for your imput!

TheSaint

If i was to restore a C2 now i would restore the car the way i want to and absolute not have the correct overspray paint as the car had when it left the factory
I might even put offset trailing arms and 1" front and 1,5" back original looking fender flares on the car and get some wide wheel on it(might even widen the knock off wheels)

bobwoodkat

This is something that racks my brain nightly! It will be a driver so I see no need to do it in the poor factory finish. I want to do it right so that down the road if someone wants to make it factory they shouldn't have much problem. Fit and finish will be as I want while still keeping the stock look.

woodsdesign

That is exactly what my approach was when building my 65 coupe. I wanted a car that I could jump in and enjoy whenever I felt like it. That is why I added upgrades like a SBC 400, TKO 600, AC, PB, PS, and suspension upgrades.
When I installed the transmission a lot of guys suggested that I cut the crossmember. That was a no no in my book. I kept all the parts so the next owner could convert it back to stock if he so chooses.
JMO

Mr D.

I think 1968Pongto has reset the bar for basket case and you no longer qualify.

bobwoodkat

Ain't that the truth. Looking at that it reminds me of the urban legend about the guy who worked for GM and filled his pockets every night with parts then went home and assembled the car.

woodsdesign

It is all about you and your situation. Don't get influenced by others. Like I said. You have to plug away. It is your passion.

Revfan

Lazarus... come out!

How is the restoration going? Still with it?

wonderful

No questions are stupid or dumb.

65 fi

I have one of those front hood surrounds in a box. I spoke with a master fiberglasser regarding the best way to join it together ( if I was ever in need of using it). He suggested sanding sufficient area on the adjacent pieces to allow for an overlap when gluing them together. Butt-joining will eventually separate due to shrinkage and a seam line will show.
IMO, the nice thing about using the original replacement panels is the press molding was done by G.M. ( at least, that is what I understand).

JohnZ

Actually, GM had NO fiberglass manufacturing/molding facilities at all; Corvette fiberglass body panels were all made by outside suppliers and arrived at St. Louis ready to assemble.

hedgehead

Tigershark3

I'm in...