C1 Steering shaft split retainer
07-29-2012, 07:54 PM
#21
Burning Brakes
Plasticman, at home now .......... bugger the sleep ........... had to try the idea I came up with for the split retainer ........... HOWEVER ........... now I have more questions...........?
Two pictures, one showing the split retainer options and one showing the gap between the steering wheel and the top bearing (upper face of the inner race) which must be close to an inch when the steering wheel is fitted (and the indicator mechanism is removed as this plays no part in the tighteness of the shaft in the column).
All of the 'split rings' are 3/4" same diameter as the steering shaft. the swagelok split ring(s) are a press fit as is the brass ring while the nylon and copper are a tight slip fit. My question is what keeps the split ring against the inner race of the top bearing .......... is it the press fit? And what stops it from working lose, initially I thought the back of the steering wheel centre pushed up against the split ring and that is why the 0.185" length was critical but this seems not to be the case.
What holds the split ring against the inner race of the top bearing to ensure any slop between the steering shaft and bearing is cancelled and remains so until the column is disassembled again? I am almost tempted to put a piece of rubber hose (or some other spacer) over the steering shaft between the split retainer and the (seated) steering wheel to ensure a constant pressure is applied to the split ring. I assume the ring is split as a solid press fit ring would be impossible to remove once installed.
If the press fit is the important factor in the success of the split ring in removing the slack then the 0.185" is irrelevant and the shaft and race contact points are crutial in removing the slop. And this means the exact design of the split ring is not inportant either as long as it provided these contact points.
Your thoughts and insight would be much appreciated.
Two pictures, one showing the split retainer options and one showing the gap between the steering wheel and the top bearing (upper face of the inner race) which must be close to an inch when the steering wheel is fitted (and the indicator mechanism is removed as this plays no part in the tighteness of the shaft in the column).
All of the 'split rings' are 3/4" same diameter as the steering shaft. the swagelok split ring(s) are a press fit as is the brass ring while the nylon and copper are a tight slip fit. My question is what keeps the split ring against the inner race of the top bearing .......... is it the press fit? And what stops it from working lose, initially I thought the back of the steering wheel centre pushed up against the split ring and that is why the 0.185" length was critical but this seems not to be the case.
What holds the split ring against the inner race of the top bearing to ensure any slop between the steering shaft and bearing is cancelled and remains so until the column is disassembled again? I am almost tempted to put a piece of rubber hose (or some other spacer) over the steering shaft between the split retainer and the (seated) steering wheel to ensure a constant pressure is applied to the split ring. I assume the ring is split as a solid press fit ring would be impossible to remove once installed.
If the press fit is the important factor in the success of the split ring in removing the slack then the 0.185" is irrelevant and the shaft and race contact points are crutial in removing the slop. And this means the exact design of the split ring is not inportant either as long as it provided these contact points.
Your thoughts and insight would be much appreciated.
you need the spring, above the retainer, to take up the slack...it puts teh pre load on teh bearing...
Last edited by knockbill; 07-29-2012 at 08:00 PM.
07-29-2012, 08:04 PM
#22
Drifting
Thread Starter
K.B,
Spring ............ what bloody spring? Picture please ............. I knew there had to be something else ............. also missing. It makes sense that there would (should) be a spring to keep the split retainer seated. Would be doubley good if I had one though.
Hmmmm, compression spring of what tension/compression force.
I'll look in my bagged up column pieces but 110% sure there is (and never was) a spring!
Thanks guys, the picture is starting to come together (I'll have to change my WTB to include the spring
)
P.S. Horn mechanism outer casting/guide is stamped D2 53 ..... gosh they prepared early for the 1960 model .......... more evidence of bubbafication!
Spring ............ what bloody spring? Picture please ............. I knew there had to be something else ............. also missing. It makes sense that there would (should) be a spring to keep the split retainer seated. Would be doubley good if I had one though.
Hmmmm, compression spring of what tension/compression force.
I'll look in my bagged up column pieces but 110% sure there is (and never was) a spring!
Thanks guys, the picture is starting to come together (I'll have to change my WTB to include the spring
)P.S. Horn mechanism outer casting/guide is stamped D2 53 ..... gosh they prepared early for the 1960 model .......... more evidence of bubbafication!
07-29-2012, 08:33 PM
#23
Burning Brakes
K.B,
Spring ............ what bloody spring? Picture please ............. I knew there had to be something else ............. also missing. It makes sense that there would (should) be a spring to keep the split retainer seated. Would be doubley good if I had one though.
Hmmmm, compression spring of what tension/compression force.
I'll look in my bagged up column pieces but 110% sure there is (and never was) a spring!
Thanks guys, the picture is starting to come together (I'll have to change my WTB to include the spring)
P.S. Horn mechanism outer casting/guide is stamped D2 53 ..... gosh they prepared early for the 1960 model .......... more evidence of bubbafication!
Spring ............ what bloody spring? Picture please ............. I knew there had to be something else ............. also missing. It makes sense that there would (should) be a spring to keep the split retainer seated. Would be doubley good if I had one though.
Hmmmm, compression spring of what tension/compression force.
I'll look in my bagged up column pieces but 110% sure there is (and never was) a spring!
Thanks guys, the picture is starting to come together (I'll have to change my WTB to include the spring
)P.S. Horn mechanism outer casting/guide is stamped D2 53 ..... gosh they prepared early for the 1960 model .......... more evidence of bubbafication!
Yeh!!
07-29-2012, 08:52 PM
#25
Burning Brakes
07-29-2012, 09:03 PM
#26
Drifting
Thread Starter
K.B.
Done, that's the swagelok and already split with the dremel AND spring ordered ......... another little problem fixed and without too much pain. I'm sure this thread will help others as well; especially those guys who had taken their box apart and never seen the split retainer either..... the local hardware stores will need to order extra 3/4" stainless swageloks.
Thanks all
Done, that's the swagelok and already split with the dremel AND spring ordered ......... another little problem fixed and without too much pain. I'm sure this thread will help others as well; especially those guys who had taken their box apart and never seen the split retainer either..... the local hardware stores will need to order extra 3/4" stainless swageloks.
Thanks all
07-29-2012, 09:23 PM
#27
Race Director
Member Since: Nov 2000
Location: Beverly Hills (Pine Ridge) Florida
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Mick,
Sorry, but was spending time in the pool with the wife & dog (Lab), and then watched Jimmy Johnson win the NASCAR race at Indy.
Looks like you got it sorted out with Bill's help. Yep, the spring you ordered bears directly on the split ring.
And I would not use brass or copper, from the wear at the chamfer I saw on mine. You would probably be replacing it on a regular basis, and sending brass or copper shavings down the column to the steering box (or at least getting shavings into the upper col. bearing).
Good luck,
Plasticman
Sorry, but was spending time in the pool with the wife & dog (Lab), and then watched Jimmy Johnson win the NASCAR race at Indy.
Looks like you got it sorted out with Bill's help. Yep, the spring you ordered bears directly on the split ring.
And I would not use brass or copper, from the wear at the chamfer I saw on mine. You would probably be replacing it on a regular basis, and sending brass or copper shavings down the column to the steering box (or at least getting shavings into the upper col. bearing).
Good luck,
Plasticman
Last edited by Plasticman; 07-29-2012 at 09:28 PM.
01-13-2018, 09:56 AM
#29
so im looking for some help in the order of what i put on for the steering wheel.
is this right.
1. Split Ring Retainer
2. Spring
3. turn signal housing
4. steering wheel
5. washer
6. Nut
7. Horn Contact
8. Screws
9 Button
Is this right. What is the placement of the split ring retainer?
is this right.
1. Split Ring Retainer
2. Spring
3. turn signal housing
4. steering wheel
5. washer
6. Nut
7. Horn Contact
8. Screws
9 Button
Is this right. What is the placement of the split ring retainer?