Wade Mahaffey

I have a barn find ex gasser 58 with hollow doors. The hinges and latch assembly is there. I am seeking advice on the window and tracking portion. This is going to be a race car and not a 100 point Corvette. I would also like the pros and cons over electric vs manual window operation. I have seen the tracking components in catalogs, but was hoping someone with experience could give advice to get me doing this thing right. I do have side windows and window frames that I bought at Carlisle
Wade Mahaffey

Frankie the Fink

If you just basically have door shells then you will need a lot of stuff for the window assemblies. First, get yourself an AIM (Assembly Instruction Manual) and start listing what you are missing. I don't know how much of it is available aftermarket -- like the roller channels, etc.. I DO know that much of the window sash and roller bracket stuff IS available. As far as manual vs electric...entirely personal choice. Not sure what you mean by "race car" but if that is what you are going for then I'd go simplest route - e.g. mechanical. Speed shifting at 7K RPM is hard on everything and why have the extra parts and wires knocking around??

Electric adds complexity and require wiring and running door conduits; manual is much simpler. The big difference is in the regulators so you should make the decision right off. There are two main 'kit' vendors; SPW (Specialty Power Windows) and Auto City Classic.

SPW are faster than Auto City Classic and use direct drive motors but are not original looking at all. Auto City Classic is much more original looking including the right looking door switches and polarity reversing motors (as original). The prices of the two kits are very close.

Wade Mahaffey

Thanks Frankie, as far as the racing goes, I am building the car to run in NHRA Super/Stock Eliminator. It must retain much of the stock components ie front suspension, complete factory body, bumpers ect. The whole reason for the electric windows is the ability to roll them down (while strapped in) on hot days. And also with the roll cage close to the door you would need to open the door to roll the window up/down manually. Not really concerened with the stock switch type or placement. Just looking for good fit and smooth firm operation. The plan is to be able to enjoy the car on the street as well, and down the road as racing slows down ad the aftermarket A/C. I was hoping to find a "Door Man" on here that would say "Do this" and "watch out for this" type thing. Your information is a great start, Thanks

Wade

Frankie the Fink

There are folks who have spent more time in C1 doors than me for sure. DZAuto, Rich5962, and, Mike Coletta on here are a wealth of info on C1s.

I went with the SPW power windows to allow passenger side operation on hot days...or to roll down the far window when the other fella at a stop light wants to talk about the car on cold days. In your case then I would say go with the SPW kit as I did. You can even mount the switches in the stock metal door panels where the old window crank handles went (as I did)....as you may find a used set of metal door panels that already have window crank holes cut in them. The SPW door wire conduits require a little fabrication so the operating angle isn't so severe when opening/closing door. I went with the factory conduits for this reason which are available in repro form. SPW windows are also faster operating.


Here is an old post by Mike Coletta on door assembly I saved (with due respect to Mike):

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1. Don't put the rubber on until you fit the door. It will make the alignment process a lot easier. You should also leave the latch/catch off until the door is in the hole with correct gaps.
2. Fit the post, including the lower front track (post extension), and then take it out. It should be installed AFTER the glass is in the door.
3. Install the regulator first, then the latch (star wheel), bellcrank assembly (3 screws), and the rods. There is no need to install the locks or outside door handles until you have the glass in the door, and aligned.
4. Install the front lower post extension. It will be held loosely by the lower adjustment bolt only.
5. Install the glass by aligning the front wheel to the lower front post extension track. The post is not in yet, and the rear channel is not in yet.
6. While holding the glass up, install the lower main channel. This is the one that is on the bottom of the glass, and uses two guide wheels from the regulator. Clip the glass on to the channel, and install the four small screws that hold the glass to the regulator.
7. Slide the curved inner channel on to the remaining regulator wheel, and install with the two phillips head/star washer 1/4 X 20 screws. There is a left and a right. If you get them wrong, the window won't work.
8. Wind the window up to the top, and slide the rear channel up from the bottom on to the back of the glass. Again, there is a left and a right. They are not interchangeable.
9. NOW, slide the post into place and fasten it with two large head phillips screws with star washers (1/4 X 20), and two short hex screws. One is inboard and goes into the post at the top of the door, and one goes in through the hole in the very FRONT of the post. The adjustment on the post is done with the inboard top hex screw (fore/aft), and the very bottom of the post extension to move in/out or left/right.
10. Now you can install the lock/door handle and related rods. If you have the right clips, you just turn the adjustment barrel on the push button, and "snap" the end into the clip. The lock rods are fixed (again there is a left/right), and just snap into the star wheel mechanism.
11. The mirror can be put on at anytime.
12. The inside door pull and lock belcrank can be installed last.


Some afterthoughts:


1. Install the cat wiskers to the stainless OUT of the car, and install the outer assemblies after the glass is in the door, but BEFORE you attach the glass to the regulator. The inboard assembly will go on last.
2. The upper window stops should also be installed AFTER the glass is put into the door, but BEFORE you attach it to the regulator.
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cbernhardt

I used the SPW power windows in my '59. Although not shown in the picture below, it will have a roll cage in it also. I made a switch panel that fits on the tunnel for most of the racing switches (line lock, cooling fans, fuel pump, etc.) and put the PW switch there also.

Charles

Frankie the Fink

I don't see a door conduit Charles. Are you the guy that run the wires through a groove in the lower door hinge ? IIRC that was a pretty slick deal...