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'67 327 idle engine stall

 
Old 11-04-2012, 10:55 AM
  #21  
KSL '67 101234
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Originally Posted by 63split63 View Post
The whistle sound you hear could be a vaccume leak. Check for leaks , be sure to check between the carb body and the throttle plate . Holley carb body,s warp due to over tight throttle body screws .
If it is warped it needs to be surfaced .

Bill
Bill thanks for your reply. Berryman's Chemtool fuel treatment cleared the jets so the carb no longer whistles. I am running one more treatment with Chevron premium 91 octane gas (the gas brand I like to use) to ensure that the carbs are clean. I also injected Berrymans into the 4 jets on both the primary and secondary ports via a syringe, and then suctioned them. The whistling sound was coming from these jets, which I diagnosed when I covered each, one at a time with my finger. When the whistle stopped I knew which jet was plugged.

Last edited by KSL '67 101234; 09-29-2013 at 09:20 PM.
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Old 11-04-2012, 11:07 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by MikeM View Post
The high stall converter could be addressing a symptom and not the problem but it is an alternative if nothing else works.
Mike, I fixed the stall issue. During removal of the spark plugs, which I replaced with new, I found 3 plugs that were less than finger tight, two that were finger tight, and the remaining that took a socket wrench to remove. I also installed a new distributor cap. I started it up, set the idle at 850, adjusted the air to fuel mixture, reset the idle to 850, checked the timing and dwell - they were at 4 and 28, respectively, so I made no adjustements, closed the hood and placed it in gear. The engine RPM dropped to 650-575, but gave no indication that it wanted to stall. The engine purred like only a 327 can - IN GEAR! So for less than $30 the problem was fixed. The Berryman's Chemtool fuel treatment cleared the jets so the carb no longer whistles. That was another $5. So for a total of $35, crisis averted as we like to say in my family, and for a savings of $800-$900 by not installing a torque converter that was not the problem.
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Old 11-04-2012, 01:28 PM
  #23  
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Nice when the simplest explanation is the one that works. Good for you that was the case here.
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Old 04-15-2019, 08:13 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by MikeM View Post
If you're idling at 650 rpm in neutral, that's probably too low to start with. Set it up to 750 rpm in neutral.

Next, check your vacuum advance timing and see if it is dropping off when you pull it in gear. If the timing falls off, that alone will drop your idle speed and can cause a stall.

I'd do this before thinking about changing converters or transmissions.
Thank you for the detailed simple correction. I have a 1959 with exactly the same issue as described. I followed your instructions that
corrected the problem.

Awesome, it only required the idle being stepped up from 550 to 650-700. Runs much better and no stalling.

Iím a novice at this mechanic stuff but this is an excellent forum.
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Old 04-15-2019, 08:18 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Matt Gruber View Post
easy test:
idle in N, warmed up.
turn in 1 idle mix screw. it should stall.
reset screw to smooth idle.
turn in #2 screw, it should stall.
if either screw has no effect, carb needs rebuild.
normal is 1-2 turns out.
My recently acquired 59 was stalling and running rough just as the other owner.

i read and followed your instructions attemptingbthe easy idle set first. The result in stepping up the idle from 559 to 650-700 made a huge difference.

things are running quite smoothly without the previous issues.

thanks from a new owner.
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Old 04-16-2019, 08:31 AM
  #26  
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Even though you've solved the idle instability problem, there's another test you should do and the result may require a new 10-dollar part that may improve idle quality.

"Modifed cam" was a red flag. I expect it has more overlap than the OE cam and high overlap cams and an auto trans are not a good combination.

Measure manifold vacuum with the engine idling in DRIVE. Then with the engine off pump down the VAC to determine how much vacuum is required to pull it to the limit. Does is pass the Two-Inch Rule? If not, buy and install a VAC that does.

The above assumes full time vacuum advance, but if it's ported, convert to full time.

Duke
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