1965-ignition switch...car continues to run
#1
Safety Car
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Location: Clinton Township MI
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1965-ignition switch...car continues to run
Noticed this issue gradually getting more often than not. Seems like I became aware of this issue shortly after returning from Tennessee where I had the SS700 installed.
Vette's not in my garage at the moment for me to take a look under the dash at the ignition switch but this is what I'm experiencing:
Car starts and runs fine. It's when I go to shut it off, moving the key to the center I notice she wants to continue running. Could it be a wire that plugs into the switch behind the dash that might have been dislodged when the new speedometer cable was installed? If I just wiggle the key (a little to the left) she'll start to shut down, but not abruptly...like she's continuing to get some spark or completion of the running circuit (probably not the right terms to use, but that's how she feels/acts). What I've been doing to shut her off, is just leave her in gear, pull the key out (after moving the key to the center or off position) and let the clutch out.
This is the original switch. Do these things just go bad suddenly from use or am I more correct in looking for a loose connection that would cause this running condition as a result of the speedometer cable swap?
Your thoughts?
Thanks in advance. I did look for this similar issue in the archives without success.
Regards,
Jim
In God We Trust!
Vette's not in my garage at the moment for me to take a look under the dash at the ignition switch but this is what I'm experiencing:
Car starts and runs fine. It's when I go to shut it off, moving the key to the center I notice she wants to continue running. Could it be a wire that plugs into the switch behind the dash that might have been dislodged when the new speedometer cable was installed? If I just wiggle the key (a little to the left) she'll start to shut down, but not abruptly...like she's continuing to get some spark or completion of the running circuit (probably not the right terms to use, but that's how she feels/acts). What I've been doing to shut her off, is just leave her in gear, pull the key out (after moving the key to the center or off position) and let the clutch out.
This is the original switch. Do these things just go bad suddenly from use or am I more correct in looking for a loose connection that would cause this running condition as a result of the speedometer cable swap?
Your thoughts?
Thanks in advance. I did look for this similar issue in the archives without success.
Regards,
Jim
In God We Trust!
#2
Le Mans Master
Jim,
Yeah I would check that connection behind the switch first especially since the speedo cable has been replaced and some work was done back there. I don't think I would shut it off by popping the clutch though.......that could be a disaster if it continues to run ( and you're close to a wall in your garage).
Don
Yeah I would check that connection behind the switch first especially since the speedo cable has been replaced and some work was done back there. I don't think I would shut it off by popping the clutch though.......that could be a disaster if it continues to run ( and you're close to a wall in your garage).
Don
#3
Team Owner
It sounds like the ignition switch contacts aren't breaking when you turn it off. Measure the voltage on the ballast resistor and see if it goes away consistently when you turn the switch off and on. Don't leave the ignition on for more than a few seconds at a time, but connect a meter (or test lamp) to the ballast so you can see it from the driver's seat, or have someone monitor for you. The voltage should go away every time you turn the switch off. If it doesn't, the switch isn't disconnecting.
PS If the switch IS staying on and you kill the car with the clutch and walk away, you could fry your points and/or coil if the 12 volts continues to be fed to the coil.
PS If the switch IS staying on and you kill the car with the clutch and walk away, you could fry your points and/or coil if the 12 volts continues to be fed to the coil.
Last edited by 65GGvert; 02-11-2013 at 02:22 PM.
#4
Safety Car
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Good poiints guys!
5thvet, yeah, I do have to watch when I'm poppin' the clutch that there's nothing in front of me, like a wall LOL!
65GGvert, as a routine I always disconnect the battery (blade type disconnect) so there's no power. Thanks for a method of testing what's going on.
I'll report back when I can get the car into my warm garage. I'm in the middle of replacing the windshield on the '5 and am helping a neighbor out with his '90 SAAB. Should be able to get back on my '5 this weekend.
Thanks again for the responses!
Jim
In God We Trust!
5thvet, yeah, I do have to watch when I'm poppin' the clutch that there's nothing in front of me, like a wall LOL!
65GGvert, as a routine I always disconnect the battery (blade type disconnect) so there's no power. Thanks for a method of testing what's going on.
I'll report back when I can get the car into my warm garage. I'm in the middle of replacing the windshield on the '5 and am helping a neighbor out with his '90 SAAB. Should be able to get back on my '5 this weekend.
Thanks again for the responses!
Jim
In God We Trust!
#5
Drifting
Assuming no wiring has been changed, it sounds like an ignition switch going bad. same symptoms as if the switch was wired with the coil hot wire on the acc post. when the key is turned off, the alternator supplies voltage to the coil, through the acc term, and the engine keeps running. I'd say your ign switch is bad, and making that connection inside for some reason.
I guess you could test this theory by putting a test light, or volt meter, on the coil terminal. start the car. when you shut off the ign switch, the light should go out immediately. if it doesn't, you have a bad switch.
Russ
I guess you could test this theory by putting a test light, or volt meter, on the coil terminal. start the car. when you shut off the ign switch, the light should go out immediately. if it doesn't, you have a bad switch.
Russ
#7
Team Owner
To clarify, a missing or loose wire won't cause your problem. It may cause it to die, but not to continue to run with the switch off. Only getting voltage to the coil will do that. Only a SHORT in the wiring can cause that (if it were in the wiring), but I think you'll find when you measure the voltage point I gave you earlier, you'll find the ignition isn't interrupting that voltage when you turn the key off.