TheSaint

65silververt. Are the front to rear brake line you have on your car 3/6"?


Where can i buy wrenches like the one on the picture that fit the fittings on 3/16", 1/4" brake lines and master cylinder fittings

I am sure the wrenches i get here in my country is metric and does not fit proper

I think that using special wrenches like this is the best thing to do and not use regular wrenches that might destroy the fittings on the brake lines when i am going to change the brake lines on my car

Sky65

I bought a complete set from Sears. Don't remember the cost but I'm sure it was reasonable.

Tom

C1-Curt

I also bought my complete set form Sears.

Ken Sungela

Just down the road from you in Germany.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Line-Wrench-Set-Open-Rings-10-13mm-/251455452745?pt=UK_Baby_BabyFeedingUtensils_EH&hash=item3a8be9b649

Ken Sungela

oops forgot, you're in Norway but need standard size.
This listing ships to Norway.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3pc-Piece-Flare-Nut-WRENCH-SET-3-Brake-Line-SAE-3-8-7-16-1-2-9-16-5-8-11-16-/370995448958?pt=US_Hand_Tools&hash=item56610d4c7e

Michael H

A couple good friends, one a serious gear head and the other a machinist both swear by snap-on tools for brake line work. I bought two snap on wrenches that cover the spectrum of brake lines for my Chevy's on eBay and found that they are stronger and fit tighter than my Craftsman tools.

65silververt

My craftsman wrenches are super tight. I actually have to wiggle them into place on most of the brake fittings. I don't think you can go wrong with snap on though...either or, its a toss up.

TheSaint

I need to have a brake line wrenches in inches and not metric

What about this set that have the following sizes:
SAE: 1/4 X 5/16, 3/8 X 7/16, 1/2 X 9/16, 5/8 X 11/16 X 3/4 X 13/16, 7/8 X 1"
I suppose this kit have the sizes i need?

65silververt

You guys sure do like to talk about wrenches.


The car bit me for the first time yesterday. I did not initially realize that the hole on the 63 Corvettes was smaller at the # 3 location since they were hard mounted. I am soft mounting this car, so i drilled out the hole for the 64 up mount. I was using my finger to align the mount with the hole and i released the jack pressure too quickly with the other hand. Want to know how long it takes before you realize your finger is pinched between the body and frame? About .02 seconds. Fortunately i did not yank on my finger and jacked the body back up quickly to release my finger. It doesn't look terrible, but the wound is deep under the skin. I've never built a car without wounding myself at least once. I suppose this is rather minor to past injuries.

BADBIRDCAGE

KRAP that had to hurt. Car is coming along beautifully Chris.

Easy Rhino

That set has all the sizes you need and more.

65silververt

Prepping the TKO 5 speed conversion for install. I removed the bearing retainer, retrieved the bearing race from it, and installed the new bearing retainer and hydraulic throw out bearing.



Other than that, I have just been working on wiring and lots of it.

65silververt

Ok Ben, I finally have the wiring update.

I picked the American AutoWire Builders Series harness, which was around 420.00 i believe.

I mounted it on the left hand side of the firewall in the same location as the original harness. I glassed in the rectangular hole where the original harness passed through the firewall. Excuse the zip ties! They are temporary.



The kit comes with the correct floor dimmer switch, just FYI.

Brake switch wires are very straightforward. I simply used insulated plastic terminals because that was all I had at the moment, but If you want a more finished or original look, the original style push on terminals are available from American auto wire.



This kit also comes with a new headlamp switch. Since you are using the Detroit Speed headlamp motor kit like me, you will need to move the parking lamp wire to the position where it is not on when the headlamps are on. The instructions from Detroit Speed are very good, so you shouldnt have any issues figuring out what i mean. ALSO, the Detroit speed headlamp kit comes with its own harness, so none of the original harness is needed, unless you want the headlamp warning indicator to still work. The only other wires you will need to run besides turn, parking lamp, high beam, low beam, horn, and fan, are the grounds.

I could not find an extra plug for the ignition switch and I did not want to use the switch that cam with the kit, so i ended up using insulated crimp terminals.



The purple wire can be run directly to the starter solenoid or to a neutral safety switch, then to the starter solenoid. I like to use the neutral safety switch.



You are going to need to obtain the correct female clips for the parking lamps and headlamps. They can also be purchased from AAW






Horn wiring. If you want to run two horns, then you will need to run a jumper wire from the first plug. These terminals came in the kit.



The nice thing about the AAW harness is it comes with plenty of accessory feeds.



I used one of the extra 12V feeds for the headlamp motors. I used a stock style circuit breaker for the motors and the power windows.





I am using the Detroit Speed wiper motor kit, which comes with its own wiring harness, so all you need is the one feed wire from the AAW harness to connect to the detroit speed unit.



It also has a feed wire for the heater/ac unit.

I used a new stock rear harness and simply connected the wires from the AAW harness for brakes, back up lamps, running lights, sending unit, etc.

My GM engine management harness came with relays for the fuel pump and the electric radiator fan. If your harness does not have those, then you will need to purchase and install them.

Also, the AAW system only came with one courtesy lamp connection, so i had to purchase their courtesy lamp kit for 25.00

I hope that helps! Sorry the photos arent the best.

biggd

Nice job. In retrospect I should have done that on mine. I had all new stock harnesses already but after adding Speed direct headlight motors & wiper kits, Vintage air, Dakota Digital dash, and an additional 6 panel fuse box you wouldn't even recognize the original harness.
I should have just sold the original harness and bought one of those. Live and learn.

65silververt

I did that on the 66 I built last year. I ended up cutting out the majority of the front harness, so what is the point? Now that reproduction harnesses cost so much, it's like throwing money down the drain. The main harness gets hacked to pieces as well when aftermarket gauges, radio, and the vintage ac are added. Plus, i would prefer a restomod to have upgraded fuses over the original glass units.
However, the one piece that does make sense to use is the rear harness.

biggd

Ha ha, that's the only harness I didn't have. I had to buy a new one. This was my first non stock Corvette so after I was through I realized it wasn't the most efficient way to go about it. There wasn't much left of the original harness by the time I got through with it. I love the Dakota Digital dash with the 1 Cat V cable though. Makes removing the dash cluster a piece of cake.

65silververt

After having a small fire break out during a stock restoration two years ago, im scared to use old wiring. Im always amazed at how brittle the engine harness usually is. However, ive had main harnesses that appeared to be like new once unwrapped. Old wiring is always good for the connectors though!!! Those little plastic connectors get expensive fast!

65silververt

Ben, here is the Courtesy lamp kit you will want if you go with the same harness i used. Im having a hard time finding the terminals you will need on their webpage though. Probably best to order one of their catalogs and just thumb through it for the smaller items.

http://www.americanautowire.com/shop...connection-kit

http://www.americanautowire.com/shop...connection-kit

rtruman

Did you add the extra circuit for the headlight from using Quartz bulbs
the circuit breaker in the picture will open up under load with high beams on .I need to fine relay to do same thing I can split it up
tying in to the high beam switch to small relay hiding behind kick panel say a two pole dry relay to route new circuit to.Where did you buy your relay from cant fine one . Thanks Richard

65silververt

Here ya go. I haven't installed it yet, but i am going to add it.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfw-hr56/overview/