Back from viewing the 63 - Please comment
05-30-2013, 10:54 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Back from viewing the 63 - Please comment
Hi all,
Just got back from a short road trip to see a 63 convertible. I am first in line and can buy the car if I commit tomorrow at $32k. It has been in the northeast for 9 yrs. Owner says they hardly drove it 1500 miles in that time. It looks to have been a fresh restoration that has sat and now aged. Looks worse in the pics than in person (I find this happens a lot to me). Anyway, the body panels fit very nicely, doors are tight, engine runs great. A wheel cylider failure kept us from test driving.
Took many pics. Please flip through them and comment. To me it looks like a rattle can restoration of the frame, but is a pretty solid car nonetheless.
thanks,
Greg
There are 75 pics here for your viewing pleasure!
http://s217.photobucket.com/user/gcc...?sort=3&page=1
Just got back from a short road trip to see a 63 convertible. I am first in line and can buy the car if I commit tomorrow at $32k. It has been in the northeast for 9 yrs. Owner says they hardly drove it 1500 miles in that time. It looks to have been a fresh restoration that has sat and now aged. Looks worse in the pics than in person (I find this happens a lot to me). Anyway, the body panels fit very nicely, doors are tight, engine runs great. A wheel cylider failure kept us from test driving.
Took many pics. Please flip through them and comment. To me it looks like a rattle can restoration of the frame, but is a pretty solid car nonetheless.
thanks,
Greg
There are 75 pics here for your viewing pleasure!
http://s217.photobucket.com/user/gcc...?sort=3&page=1
Last edited by gccch; 05-30-2013 at 11:01 PM.
05-31-2013, 07:29 AM
#2
Drifting
Can't see how the body looks but that would be the deal breaker along with frame issues. Best to stand back and look at the body lines and surfaces. Can't do that in a cramped garage.
Can't imgagine a running/driving corvette going for less than 32K.
Didn't look at all the pics but it does look like it has lots of original parts..except for the 64 MC. Does that MC look like it is covered with brake fluid..it looks 'wet'.
Oh, ok brake issues tow the car home at 30K.
Look the body over again in the open.
Can't imgagine a running/driving corvette going for less than 32K.
Didn't look at all the pics but it does look like it has lots of original parts..except for the 64 MC. Does that MC look like it is covered with brake fluid..it looks 'wet'.
Oh, ok brake issues tow the car home at 30K.
Look the body over again in the open.
05-31-2013, 07:49 AM
#3
Melting Slicks
It appears that some of the forward lighting harness connections were not plugged in (limit switch) and that the harness wasn't routed properly through the engine compartment (hanging down over washer reservoir). Not saying that it's a deal breaker, but it would be smart to go through the wiring with a fine tooth comb if you were to purchase it - you don't know what else wasn't connected (and for what reason).
05-31-2013, 07:50 AM
#4
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2003
Location: Sitting in his Nowhere land Hanover Pa
Posts: 48,986
Received 6,929 Likes
on
4,774 Posts
2015 C2 of Year Finalist
05-31-2013, 07:53 AM
#6
Team Owner
I see that now...post was deleted prior to your comment.
Not enough coffee this morning...
Not enough coffee this morning...
05-31-2013, 07:56 AM
#7
Can't see anything that would be a deal breaker for me. The only concern I have is the amount of oxidation and rust on the carb. But, thats the NorthEast for sure. Salt in the air can do that easily. Hopefully you are able to do some work yourself because this car will need a lot of TLC to get it so its a nice driver.
I tend to look at things from the point of view of "I can do that". So if you look at that car and you say, I can do that for virtually everything you see that you would like to see restored then I think you have a winner. But, if you are going to get this back to "real pretty" and have someone else do it, then be prepared for about $7000-$10,000 for a real nice driver. In which case its not a deal.
If you can do it, then its a matter of elbow grease, and getting parts chromed. To me, I would be biting at the bit to get started, but thats me. Price seems really average, parts seem all there and as pointed out, you have a MC that is wrong year but who cares unless you want to make this a show piece.
You probably have $1500 worth of chroming to do. Another $1500 in seals, gaskets, and rebuilds (carb, transmission seals, rubbers etc) Then add $4K for things that are nice to have, or you did not know you needed.
Do a compression test. Testers are cheap, NAAPA or some other place. Fix the brake issue and make sure you test drive it. Maybe it has not been driven because it has no 2nd gear?
$32K is a high dollar but if I wanted the car, I would enjoy the work. Its not a deal though Roadsters go much cheaper than Coupes. This is a 250HP car and is the "least desireable of the 63s". Which is a negative. But, you have the right carb, the chrome in the engine compartment, etc etc so its all there but ....250HP ...... you should pay less. $28K? Not sure if he has a "lineup" or not but the car would not sell for $32K out West because of rust and 250HP and general conditon.Not seeing a huge deal here. To help you out click this
http://www.ebay.ca/sch/Cars-Trucks-/...te+Convertible
Its a numbers matching car, so its worth a little more money then some others. If you look at the listings on Ebay they did not sell for the prices in Red. Most were higher then $32K and seller would not take that money
Pop the hub caps if the wheels have the two little nubs next to the tire filler, then you have $1200+ in wheels right there.
So you have a 63Vert 250HP, out of all the 63s this would sell for the cheapest money. General condition is poor to average. I am talking myself into $28K tops? Others are better at this then I.
Good luck.
I tend to look at things from the point of view of "I can do that". So if you look at that car and you say, I can do that for virtually everything you see that you would like to see restored then I think you have a winner. But, if you are going to get this back to "real pretty" and have someone else do it, then be prepared for about $7000-$10,000 for a real nice driver. In which case its not a deal.
If you can do it, then its a matter of elbow grease, and getting parts chromed. To me, I would be biting at the bit to get started, but thats me. Price seems really average, parts seem all there and as pointed out, you have a MC that is wrong year but who cares unless you want to make this a show piece.
You probably have $1500 worth of chroming to do. Another $1500 in seals, gaskets, and rebuilds (carb, transmission seals, rubbers etc) Then add $4K for things that are nice to have, or you did not know you needed.
Do a compression test. Testers are cheap, NAAPA or some other place. Fix the brake issue and make sure you test drive it. Maybe it has not been driven because it has no 2nd gear?
$32K is a high dollar but if I wanted the car, I would enjoy the work. Its not a deal though Roadsters go much cheaper than Coupes. This is a 250HP car and is the "least desireable of the 63s". Which is a negative. But, you have the right carb, the chrome in the engine compartment, etc etc so its all there but ....250HP ...... you should pay less. $28K? Not sure if he has a "lineup" or not but the car would not sell for $32K out West because of rust and 250HP and general conditon.Not seeing a huge deal here. To help you out click this
http://www.ebay.ca/sch/Cars-Trucks-/...te+Convertible
Its a numbers matching car, so its worth a little more money then some others. If you look at the listings on Ebay they did not sell for the prices in Red. Most were higher then $32K and seller would not take that money
Pop the hub caps if the wheels have the two little nubs next to the tire filler, then you have $1200+ in wheels right there.
So you have a 63Vert 250HP, out of all the 63s this would sell for the cheapest money. General condition is poor to average. I am talking myself into $28K tops? Others are better at this then I.
Good luck.
Last edited by TC233; 05-31-2013 at 08:18 AM.
05-31-2013, 08:14 AM
#8
Drifting
Thread Starter
Can't see how the body looks but that would be the deal breaker along with frame issues. Best to stand back and look at the body lines and surfaces. Can't do that in a cramped garage.
Can't imgagine a running/driving corvette going for less than 32K.
Didn't look at all the pics but it does look like it has lots of original parts..except for the 64 MC. Does that MC look like it is covered with brake fluid..it looks 'wet'.
Oh, ok brake issues tow the car home at 30K.
Look the body over again in the open.
Can't imgagine a running/driving corvette going for less than 32K.
Didn't look at all the pics but it does look like it has lots of original parts..except for the 64 MC. Does that MC look like it is covered with brake fluid..it looks 'wet'.
Oh, ok brake issues tow the car home at 30K.
Look the body over again in the open.
05-31-2013, 08:24 AM
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
Can't see anything that would be a deal breaker for me. The only concern I have is the amount of oxidation and rust on the carb. But, thats the NorthEast for sure. Salt in the air can do that easily. Hopefully you are able to do some work yourself because this car will need a lot of TLC to get it so its a nice driver.
I tend to look at things from the point of view of "I can do that". So if you look at that car and you say, I can do that for virtually everything you see that you would like to see restored then I think you have a winner. But, if you are going to get this back to "real pretty" and have someone else do it, then be prepared for about $7000-$10,000 for a real nice driver. In which case its not a deal.
If you can do it, then its a matter of elbow grease, and getting parts chromed. To me, I would be biting at the bit to get started, but thats me. Price seems really average, parts seem all there and as pointed out, you have a MC that is wrong year but who cares unless you want to make this a show piece.
You probably have $1500 worth of chroming to do. Another $1500 in seals, gaskets, and rebuilds (carb, transmission seals, rubbers etc) Then add $4K for things that are nice to have, or you did not know you needed.
Do a compression test. Testers are cheap, NAAPA or some other place. Fix the brake issue and make sure you test drive it. Maybe it has not been driven because it has no 2nd gear?
$32K is a high dollar but if I wanted the car, I would enjoy the work. Its not a deal though Roadsters go much cheaper than Coupes. This is a 250HP car and is the "least desireable of the 63s". Which is a negative. But, you have the right carb, the chrome in the engine compartment, etc etc so its all there but ....250HP ...... you should pay less. $28K? Not sure if he has a "lineup" or not but the car would not sell for $32K out West because of rust and 250HP and general conditon.Not seeing a huge deal here. To help you out click this
http://www.ebay.ca/sch/Cars-Trucks-/...te+Convertible
Its a numbers matching car, so its worth a little more money then some others. If you look at the listings on Ebay they did not sell for the prices in Red. Most were higher then $32K and seller would not take that money
Pop the hub caps if the wheels have the two little nubs next to the tire filler, then you have $1200+ in wheels right there.
So you have a 63Vert 250HP, out of all the 63s this would sell for the cheapest money. General condition is poor to average. I am talking myself into $28K tops? Others are better at this then I.
Good luck.
I tend to look at things from the point of view of "I can do that". So if you look at that car and you say, I can do that for virtually everything you see that you would like to see restored then I think you have a winner. But, if you are going to get this back to "real pretty" and have someone else do it, then be prepared for about $7000-$10,000 for a real nice driver. In which case its not a deal.
If you can do it, then its a matter of elbow grease, and getting parts chromed. To me, I would be biting at the bit to get started, but thats me. Price seems really average, parts seem all there and as pointed out, you have a MC that is wrong year but who cares unless you want to make this a show piece.
You probably have $1500 worth of chroming to do. Another $1500 in seals, gaskets, and rebuilds (carb, transmission seals, rubbers etc) Then add $4K for things that are nice to have, or you did not know you needed.
Do a compression test. Testers are cheap, NAAPA or some other place. Fix the brake issue and make sure you test drive it. Maybe it has not been driven because it has no 2nd gear?
$32K is a high dollar but if I wanted the car, I would enjoy the work. Its not a deal though Roadsters go much cheaper than Coupes. This is a 250HP car and is the "least desireable of the 63s". Which is a negative. But, you have the right carb, the chrome in the engine compartment, etc etc so its all there but ....250HP ...... you should pay less. $28K? Not sure if he has a "lineup" or not but the car would not sell for $32K out West because of rust and 250HP and general conditon.Not seeing a huge deal here. To help you out click this
http://www.ebay.ca/sch/Cars-Trucks-/...te+Convertible
Its a numbers matching car, so its worth a little more money then some others. If you look at the listings on Ebay they did not sell for the prices in Red. Most were higher then $32K and seller would not take that money
Pop the hub caps if the wheels have the two little nubs next to the tire filler, then you have $1200+ in wheels right there.
So you have a 63Vert 250HP, out of all the 63s this would sell for the cheapest money. General condition is poor to average. I am talking myself into $28K tops? Others are better at this then I.
Good luck.
05-31-2013, 08:29 AM
#10
Race Director
Looks like it's been stored in a damp garage with lots of rust blooms on the underneath and chrome surfaces - but nothing from the photos that appears not to be still solid anyway. Needs a lot of clean up, minor repair and some cosmetics but if the motor appears right it's hard to see how you can go too wrong for the low $30s. It's certainly been awhile since it was last painted and the chasis spray-bombed. I suspect if that old paint were covering up any badly repaired body work or frame rust outs, they would be showing through it by now. No guarantees - buy low, expect the worst and hope for the best.
05-31-2013, 08:40 AM
#11
Tech Contributor
Consider as well, the "cost avoidance" you gain from not buying a car across country. Costs to travel to see the car, and ship or drive it home, should in my opinion be taken into account.
Another car just like this one, for 2k less, on the other side of the country from you (for example) had the same net cost to you because of the extra expenses.
Another car just like this one, for 2k less, on the other side of the country from you (for example) had the same net cost to you because of the extra expenses.
Last edited by 62Jeff; 05-31-2013 at 09:40 AM.
05-31-2013, 08:45 AM
#12
Melting Slicks
$32K seems reasonable but unless there are serious other issues, I can't imagine anyone putting a car like this up for sale when it isn't drivable.
If it is indeed just a wheel cylinder then a couple hundred for a brake job - with a good fluid flush/bleed would be well spent as it would theoretically allow prospective buyers the chance to get the car on the road.
If it is indeed just a wheel cylinder then a couple hundred for a brake job - with a good fluid flush/bleed would be well spent as it would theoretically allow prospective buyers the chance to get the car on the road.
05-31-2013, 08:48 AM
#13
Burning Brakes
Great posts so far.
My two cents from a new purchaser is.
1. Make sure drive train is in good working order including tranny.
2. Expect to put in some bucks to get to safe driver condition.
3. Plan for putting 10k into this car to get it where you want it. Money goes really fast especially if you have to sub out some work.
Lastly, know that it's a special thing to even own one of these cars, no matter what engine or condition, so accept it for it's flaws and expect to get stopped or honked at every single time you take it anywhere!
My two cents from a new purchaser is.
1. Make sure drive train is in good working order including tranny.
2. Expect to put in some bucks to get to safe driver condition.
3. Plan for putting 10k into this car to get it where you want it. Money goes really fast especially if you have to sub out some work.
Lastly, know that it's a special thing to even own one of these cars, no matter what engine or condition, so accept it for it's flaws and expect to get stopped or honked at every single time you take it anywhere!
05-31-2013, 08:50 AM
#14
Drifting
Thread Starter
Great points..
One thing really holding me back after sleeping on it is the fact that it is a completely base optioned car. Base HP, no options, etc. The one I was after last week was the 365 HP model in 64. 365 vs. 250... Not a small difference.
How much more should the 64 be compared to this 63? Although that one had signs of a minor accident it showed so much better overall (it was clean and was clearly kept clean). This one was not babied for the past 9 yrs, just stored and driven. I really don't like all the rattle can paint underneath.
One thing really holding me back after sleeping on it is the fact that it is a completely base optioned car. Base HP, no options, etc. The one I was after last week was the 365 HP model in 64. 365 vs. 250... Not a small difference.
How much more should the 64 be compared to this 63? Although that one had signs of a minor accident it showed so much better overall (it was clean and was clearly kept clean). This one was not babied for the past 9 yrs, just stored and driven. I really don't like all the rattle can paint underneath.
05-31-2013, 08:52 AM
#15
Drifting
Thread Starter
$32K seems reasonable but unless there are serious other issues, I can't imagine anyone putting a car like this up for sale when it isn't drivable.
If it is indeed just a wheel cylinder then a couple hundred for a brake job - with a good fluid flush/bleed would be well spent as it would theoretically allow prospective buyers the chance to get the car on the road.
If it is indeed just a wheel cylinder then a couple hundred for a brake job - with a good fluid flush/bleed would be well spent as it would theoretically allow prospective buyers the chance to get the car on the road.
05-31-2013, 08:59 AM
#16
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Feb 2011
Location: Syracuse, NY and Clearwater, FL
Posts: 2,076
Received 196 Likes
on
144 Posts
I will give some feedback. My first impression was it "looks good" then I looked more closely.
Bumpers show rust.......OK, they are 50 years old.
Frame and chassis components have some surface rust coming back thru......OK, that may be expected.
Carburetor shows a fair amount of corrosion......not a good sign.
But this is what bothers me the most. Look at the photo under the dash.
The pedal assembly is covered with rust. There should be no water or corrosion under the dashboard.
I went out and looked at my '63, my pedal assembly looks like brand new.
Bumpers show rust.......OK, they are 50 years old.
Frame and chassis components have some surface rust coming back thru......OK, that may be expected.
Carburetor shows a fair amount of corrosion......not a good sign.
But this is what bothers me the most. Look at the photo under the dash.
The pedal assembly is covered with rust. There should be no water or corrosion under the dashboard.
I went out and looked at my '63, my pedal assembly looks like brand new.
05-31-2013, 09:29 AM
#17
Drifting
Thread Starter
I am also concerned about the amount of rust showing on this one. Seems to me if it was properly stored it would not show so much rust. I have been comparing to the 64 from last week and while that one has lots of patina it looks way better to me.
05-31-2013, 09:30 AM
#18
Drifting
Thread Starter
05-31-2013, 09:34 AM
#19
Safety Car
05-31-2013, 09:45 AM
#20
Le Mans Master
Car has been in the Northeast, rust if very typical, espeically being stored. Little sanding, paint, and you are back in business, however, just make very sure it's only surface rust....
More concerned about carb rust...
Price seems right for what you are getting.... Carpet needs a good cleaning.
If you want a SWC, you will not be satisfied with Vert, so think this out and best of luck.
More concerned about carb rust...
Price seems right for what you are getting.... Carpet needs a good cleaning.
If you want a SWC, you will not be satisfied with Vert, so think this out and best of luck.