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How to remove Heater Core on a 1963, Video

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Old 06-01-2013, 08:58 PM
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donbayers
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Default How to remove Heater Core on a 1963, Video

I made a quick video of how to take out the heater core on a 1963 because I could not find one or good pics that showed it.

It was not as bad as I was imagining and I'm confident that most could do this with some basic tools.

My next steps are to clean everything and replace the actual core.

I can see that it would be a good idea to get new gaskets etc to put it back together. Also I will take the new core over to a radiator shop and have it pressure tested.

Hope this helps anyone in the future. I'm having fun working on the car



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Old 06-02-2013, 01:15 PM
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thank you don. i am saving it. jim
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Old 06-02-2013, 02:30 PM
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mrg
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Thanks, Don ..
It's been many years since doing a heater core replacement on my car. I could use a refresher on this one too.

Even as a young guy I remember having to do some contortions to access/remove/install some right side heater box bolt.
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Old 06-02-2013, 02:59 PM
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Great video On 1964 and newer C2`s the inner and outer heater cores are fastened with 7 speed nuts

It is the same amount of speed nuts on AC cars as well
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Old 06-16-2013, 01:36 PM
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All;

Got back to the heater core job. Made another short video of cleaning and installing the new heater core in the box.

Not a Concours deal but cleaned up and functional. Got the gasket replacement kit from ZIP.

Will make final video of return install. Hope this helps someone in the future.

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Old 06-16-2013, 05:30 PM
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Nice video thumbs:
I thought that the heather core was made in the US but when i asked i was told they where made in Mexico and that i should have the heather core soldered around the water tubes to make sure it did not leak

Did the person that solder your heather core find any leaks on the new core?
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Old 06-16-2013, 05:55 PM
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Saint;

My heater core, purchased from CC, did not have any leaks. It does say Made in Mexico on it. He did reinforce the tubes and around the rest of it. Looked pretty solid after he finished with it. Cost me $25.

I will still be very careful when putting the hoses on.
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Old 06-16-2013, 05:58 PM
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I will do as you did and have it soldered
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Old 06-23-2013, 11:01 AM
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Finished the heater core install.

Again, not a concours car, not a professional video, and I'm sure not the only way to do it but hope this helps people in the future. This was really not as scary a job as I imagined.

I'm sure there are small nuances to different years within the C-2 cars with different options such as AC.

Regards

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Old 11-18-2017, 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by donbayers View Post
Finished the heater core install.

Again, not a concours car, not a professional video, and I'm sure not the only way to do it but hope this helps people in the future. This was really not as scary a job as I imagined.

I'm sure there are small nuances to different years within the C-2 cars with different options such as AC.

Regards

Heater core install final - YouTube
Thanks for this post, but I still have two pieces that I don't know where they go. One is about 1.5"x 2.5"x.5" and another one has a sticky back to it. I put one sticky on the for by the heater core, but clueless to these two. Any help is appreciated.

Thanks,
Dex.
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Old 11-18-2017, 02:41 PM
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These pics should help.














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Old 11-18-2017, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by buns View Post
These pics should help.














Thanks buns. I got the one sticky back gasket on the door like you have in the third picture, but where does the second one stick to? Now I know where to install the smaller one.

Thanks,
Dex.
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Old 11-19-2017, 06:39 PM
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Originally Posted by buns View Post
These pics should help.














I tried to read the Dr Rebuild sheet, the best I could, and it looks like both sticky back gaskets go on the door in picture 3. One on each side. Will have to figure out how to get to the back side now.

Thanks again,
Dex.
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Old 11-19-2017, 07:57 PM
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Nice video. Your car must be newer then 9000. The early design takes a bit more effort to get in and out due to the mechanism on the side. I had to pull out on the "Z" bar a little to get the clearance I needed to remove box. Does you car have the snorkel that fits on the end. It directs heat towards the drivers feet. See picture


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Old 11-19-2017, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by 58n65 View Post
I tried to read the Dr Rebuild sheet, the best I could, and it looks like both sticky back gaskets go on the door in picture 3. One on each side. Will have to figure out how to get to the back side now.
I believe that is correct.
I had my box completely apart when I installed the new seals (drilled out all the rivets) so access was not a problem.
I found another picture, a felt seal in the middle of the box. I don't remember why I didn't replace it. Maybe there was no replacement in the kit.



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Old 11-20-2017, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by MOXIE62 View Post
Nice video. Your car must be newer then 9000. The early design takes a bit more effort to get in and out due to the mechanism on the side. I had to pull out on the "Z" bar a little to get the clearance I needed to remove box. Does you car have the snorkel that fits on the end. It directs heat towards the drivers feet. See picture


Those snorkels got broken off/tossed away over the years and are the dickens to find. I've only seen a few

Here is one:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1963-Corvet...BXYaDB&vxp=mtr

And there is a bit nicer one available for a mere $500...

Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 11-20-2017 at 06:08 AM.
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Old 11-20-2017, 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by buns View Post
I believe that is correct.
I had my box completely apart when I installed the new seals (drilled out all the rivets) so access was not a problem.
I found another picture, a felt seal in the middle of the box. I don't remember why I didn't replace it. Maybe there was no replacement in the kit.



Thanks again buns!!! I hate to have to drill out the rivets but that's the only way to get in there to it. If it wasn't necessary then I wouldn't worry about it.

Thanks,
Dex.
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