65tripleblack

I was unclear. Krylon still sells the industrial 5 ball, which is lacquer. They also sell a 5 ball which is enamel. Those that see the 5 ball logo and don't know better may be expecting lacquer when they buy this, and some others:

http://www.tcpglobal.com/spraypaintd...oor-paint.aspx


as stated, it must say "Industrial" on the can, with the 5 ball logo, in order to be lacquer.

Yes, Krylon also sells a line of lacquer spray paint as well, but this is not the old, familiar stuff that we all have the best results with.

b_pappy

Well good info to know. Thanks guys!
Bruce

Ktholin

I just finished painting my engine compartment with a epoxy primer followed by a singe stage polyurethane "semi-flat" black. Despite two attempts to get the proper sheen using flattener, I am disappointed in the results (too much gloss).

After reading the posts on Krylon 1613, I am thinking this is the way to go.

Questions: 1. Can Krylon be applied directly over a newly painted PU coat? Other than sanding, is there any surface prep you recommend?
2. How uniform can the finish be using a rattle can, particularly when painting the entire engine bay?

Thanks for your help!

A new member

Ken Sungela

I'm currently using 1613 "5 ball" on some parts including brake pedal assembly and conv. top frame. I tried applying it directly to the bare metal that was sandblasted, but the paint has very little "filling" capability. However, over a primed surface, it looks extremely uniform and would have no hesitation using it on a larger surfaces like the engine compartment. I can't comment on the application over a new coat of PU. Maybe call Krylon and ask their Tech. Dept. 800-251-2486

DansYellow66

I would not try to use it to paint an entire engine bay for a professional result. You will get dry areas and overspray on other areas. If I had access to a spray gun I would go to a PPG dealer and buy a quart of semi-flattened black lacquer. If you decide to use in on something like an engine bay, mask it off into manageable areas like each wheelwell and the upper firewall and lower firewall. If you mask at panel bonding joints and back tape the edges you can concentrate on applying the paint to a manageable area smoothly and once un-masked it should look fine.

One thing I remember about Krylon 1613 is that a light dust coat and then a single medium coat gives a nice semi-flat finish. If you apply a second medium coat after the first flashes off - it will be a little glossier - more semi-gloss. So depending on the amount of gloss you are looking for you can work it that way.

Ktholin

Thanks for the info. I appreciate your response. I am thinking that because it is a semi flat, it may be easier to lay down a more uniform appearing coat.

I do have a compressor and gun. The paint store did not get the proper sheen despite two separate trips. One issue may be that they sell a generic brand paint. Perhaps I should locate a PPG dealer who might be able to provide a better product. I'm just disappointed after spending weeks prepping and sanding to get such a disappointing result. Thanks again.

66softtop

I know this is a real late post but wanted to pipe in. I just bought this stuff at O'Riley's Auto Parts yesterday.

IMSA GTO

I buy mine from Travers Tool. $5.29 per can in 6+ quantity order.

http://www.travers.com/101214-81-010...rSearch=krylon 1613

gccch

Has anyone painted a complete frame using rattle cans? I bought 5 cans thinking it would be handy for all the minor pieces along the way, but now I am wondering if it could make sense to paint my entire frame rather than go out and buy a spray gun. I do have a good compressor already available.

66softtop

I'm in the process of doing mine. Started while the wheels were off to rebuild calipers. Then decided to climb under further. Very easy job. I'm priming first then finish coat.