Quick Fuel Carb Install - L79
04-06-2013, 12:28 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Quick Fuel Carb Install - L79
Well, after living with my "Blueprinted" stock Holley carb on my newly-acquired 1967 Coupe for about THREE days, I was ready for a change! After talking with the FANTASTIC folks at Quick Fuel, we spec'd out a "Hot Rod" series 600cfm carb to replace my Holley. My friend Don "5th Vette" and I completed it today - WHAT a difference! Caution: If you have NO interest in a close to "R&R" replacement carb that works about 1000% better - smoother idle, faster cold & hot starting, less fuel/exhaust smell, NO leaking, and lighter, then this thread is not for you! However, if you're sick and tired of the inherent foibles of the Holley carburetor, and are ready to install a NEW carb that will require NO permanent alterations to your stock '66-'67 L79, then read on: As indicated, this carb flows slightly more cfm from the stock 585cfm at 600. Electric choke and MECHANICAL secondaries at my request - I just like the "snap" you get when mechanical secondaries kick in! Quick Fuel also added a fuel runner between the front and back bowls, like the stock Holley:
As of this writing, you'll need a Holley part - #26-25 - which you can buy online for under $20. This is a "swivel fuel bowl fitting" that allows you to come out of the side of the front fuel bowl at the same angle as the original Holley 3810. In the photo above, you can see that we attached this to the ORIGINAL steel fuel line with a small section of 5/16" Gates rubber fuel line. The only thing alittle "ghetto" about this install is that we left the original screw-in fitting on the line - we zip-tied it close to the rubber line. Quick Fuel says that an EXACT fuel bowl w/proper angle and built-in fuel filter is forthcoming! Before installing the carb, you'll have to fire up your Dremel and "relieve" some aluminum from the front, so that the "indexed" stock air cleaner will fit/line up:
Take your time on this step; slow going, but it came out reasonably "neat". Next step is to install an inline fuel filter, since the original Holley 3810 had a built-in filter that the Quick Fuel lacks. I chose a Wix #33033. You can see it below, nestled neatly in-between the frame and the engine, hiding under my AC compressor:
You'll need to remove the stock 3/8" rubber line here (it prolly needs replacing ANYWAY, w/the ***** fuel these days!) - getcherself some new Gates 3/8" line and a handful of clamps and there it is!
So - all that's left is the electric choke. My car has (Dealer-installed in 1967) Transistor Ignition, so I couldn't tap off the ballast resistor. I opted for the black wire going up to the windshield washer pump motor (I ganked the washer bag a few days ago; NEVER use the stock w/s washer system anyway!) - we just popped it off the pump motor and ran a section of wire zip-tied onto the temp. wire/insulation up to the choke, w/the appropriate spade connectors on each end:
Next step - tap the gas pedal, turn the key, and enjoy quick starting, a "proper" choke/fast idle, and neck-snapping acceleration ever' time you depress the loud pedal - Yes Please!
As of this writing, you'll need a Holley part - #26-25 - which you can buy online for under $20. This is a "swivel fuel bowl fitting" that allows you to come out of the side of the front fuel bowl at the same angle as the original Holley 3810. In the photo above, you can see that we attached this to the ORIGINAL steel fuel line with a small section of 5/16" Gates rubber fuel line. The only thing alittle "ghetto" about this install is that we left the original screw-in fitting on the line - we zip-tied it close to the rubber line. Quick Fuel says that an EXACT fuel bowl w/proper angle and built-in fuel filter is forthcoming! Before installing the carb, you'll have to fire up your Dremel and "relieve" some aluminum from the front, so that the "indexed" stock air cleaner will fit/line up:
Take your time on this step; slow going, but it came out reasonably "neat". Next step is to install an inline fuel filter, since the original Holley 3810 had a built-in filter that the Quick Fuel lacks. I chose a Wix #33033. You can see it below, nestled neatly in-between the frame and the engine, hiding under my AC compressor:
You'll need to remove the stock 3/8" rubber line here (it prolly needs replacing ANYWAY, w/the ***** fuel these days!) - getcherself some new Gates 3/8" line and a handful of clamps and there it is!
So - all that's left is the electric choke. My car has (Dealer-installed in 1967) Transistor Ignition, so I couldn't tap off the ballast resistor. I opted for the black wire going up to the windshield washer pump motor (I ganked the washer bag a few days ago; NEVER use the stock w/s washer system anyway!) - we just popped it off the pump motor and ran a section of wire zip-tied onto the temp. wire/insulation up to the choke, w/the appropriate spade connectors on each end:
Next step - tap the gas pedal, turn the key, and enjoy quick starting, a "proper" choke/fast idle, and neck-snapping acceleration ever' time you depress the loud pedal - Yes Please!
04-06-2013, 12:46 AM
#2
Safety Car
Where did you buy the carb?
04-06-2013, 12:48 AM
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
04-06-2013, 12:50 AM
#4
Safety Car
04-06-2013, 05:56 AM
#5
Team Owner
Really happy with mine too. They did tell me to up the idle air bleeds and that I would need to up the power valve as well....5 minute job for both items. The carb has float bowl sight glasses that make setting the level a breeze; along with mixture screws with real 'heads' on them so a screwdriver actually works. And, the choke works like a choke should.
A very nice piece, and - as stated. a bolt on replacement for a Holley 4150. I don't do rubber fuel lines over a hot aluminum manifold so it was the Mr. Gasket kit with fuel pressure gauge for me.
Double throttle return spring are a good idea too (I run two of them as shown).
The only downside I see is that the Holley optional 'step-up' idle solenoid for A/C-equipped carbs won't fit the Q/F carb (and Q/F apparently doesn't offer their own). That thing only worked marginally anyway so no big loss. Holley jets and power valves will work in the Q/F but the Q/F power valves are "four door" valves and a little nicer.
Have to say working on my NOM Chevelle (unlike my nearly all original Corvette) has a nice sense of freedom about it. I can put upgrades on it, try different stuff and screw around with a few 'bling' options without offending the originality Gods...
A very nice piece, and - as stated. a bolt on replacement for a Holley 4150. I don't do rubber fuel lines over a hot aluminum manifold so it was the Mr. Gasket kit with fuel pressure gauge for me.
Double throttle return spring are a good idea too (I run two of them as shown).
The only downside I see is that the Holley optional 'step-up' idle solenoid for A/C-equipped carbs won't fit the Q/F carb (and Q/F apparently doesn't offer their own). That thing only worked marginally anyway so no big loss. Holley jets and power valves will work in the Q/F but the Q/F power valves are "four door" valves and a little nicer.
Have to say working on my NOM Chevelle (unlike my nearly all original Corvette) has a nice sense of freedom about it. I can put upgrades on it, try different stuff and screw around with a few 'bling' options without offending the originality Gods...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 04-06-2013 at 07:03 AM.
04-06-2013, 10:12 AM
#6
This couldn't have come at a better time, thanks! I've been debating what to do about my '66 carb and your solution looks and sounds perfect.
04-06-2013, 10:30 AM
#7
Safety Car
Well, after living with my "Blueprinted" stock Holley carb on my newly-acquired 1967 Coupe for about THREE days, I was ready for a change! After talking with the FANTASTIC folks at Quick Fuel, we spec'd out a "Hot Rod" series 600cfm carb to replace my Holley. My friend Don "5th Vette" and I completed it today - WHAT a difference! Caution: If you have NO interest in a close to "R&R" replacement carb that works about 1000% better - smoother idle, faster cold & hot starting, less fuel/exhaust smell, NO leaking, and lighter, then this thread is not for you! However, if you're sick and tired of the inherent foibles of the Holley carburetor, and are ready to install a NEW carb that will require NO permanent alterations to your stock '66-'67 L79, then read on: As indicated, this carb flows slightly more cfm from the stock 585cfm at 600. Electric choke and MECHANICAL secondaries at my request - I just like the "snap" you get when mechanical secondaries kick in! Quick Fuel also added a fuel runner between the front and back bowls, like the stock Holley:
As of this writing, you'll need a Holley part - #26-25 - which you can buy online for under $20. This is a "swivel fuel bowl fitting" that allows you to come out of the side of the front fuel bowl at the same angle as the original Holley 3810. In the photo above, you can see that we attached this to the ORIGINAL steel fuel line with a small section of 5/16" Gates rubber fuel line. The only thing alittle "ghetto" about this install is that we left the original screw-in fitting on the line - we zip-tied it close to the rubber line. Quick Fuel says that an EXACT fuel bowl w/proper angle and built-in fuel filter is forthcoming! Before installing the carb, you'll have to fire up your Dremel and "relieve" some aluminum from the front, so that the "indexed" stock air cleaner will fit/line up:
Take your time on this step; slow going, but it came out reasonably "neat". Next step is to install an inline fuel filter, since the original Holley 3810 had a built-in filter that the Quick Fuel lacks. I chose a Wix #33033. You can see it below, nestled neatly in-between the frame and the engine, hiding under my AC compressor:
You'll need to remove the stock 3/8" rubber line here (it prolly needs replacing ANYWAY, w/the ***** fuel these days!) - getcherself some new Gates 3/8" line and a handful of clamps and there it is!
So - all that's left is the electric choke. My car has (Dealer-installed in 1967) Transistor Ignition, so I couldn't tap off the ballast resistor. I opted for the black wire going up to the windshield washer pump motor (I ganked the washer bag a few days ago; NEVER use the stock w/s washer system anyway!) - we just popped it off the pump motor and ran a section of wire zip-tied onto the temp. wire/insulation up to the choke, w/the appropriate spade connectors on each end:
Next step - tap the gas pedal, turn the key, and enjoy quick starting, a "proper" choke/fast idle, and neck-snapping acceleration ever' time you depress the loud pedal - Yes Please!
As of this writing, you'll need a Holley part - #26-25 - which you can buy online for under $20. This is a "swivel fuel bowl fitting" that allows you to come out of the side of the front fuel bowl at the same angle as the original Holley 3810. In the photo above, you can see that we attached this to the ORIGINAL steel fuel line with a small section of 5/16" Gates rubber fuel line. The only thing alittle "ghetto" about this install is that we left the original screw-in fitting on the line - we zip-tied it close to the rubber line. Quick Fuel says that an EXACT fuel bowl w/proper angle and built-in fuel filter is forthcoming! Before installing the carb, you'll have to fire up your Dremel and "relieve" some aluminum from the front, so that the "indexed" stock air cleaner will fit/line up:
Take your time on this step; slow going, but it came out reasonably "neat". Next step is to install an inline fuel filter, since the original Holley 3810 had a built-in filter that the Quick Fuel lacks. I chose a Wix #33033. You can see it below, nestled neatly in-between the frame and the engine, hiding under my AC compressor:
You'll need to remove the stock 3/8" rubber line here (it prolly needs replacing ANYWAY, w/the ***** fuel these days!) - getcherself some new Gates 3/8" line and a handful of clamps and there it is!
So - all that's left is the electric choke. My car has (Dealer-installed in 1967) Transistor Ignition, so I couldn't tap off the ballast resistor. I opted for the black wire going up to the windshield washer pump motor (I ganked the washer bag a few days ago; NEVER use the stock w/s washer system anyway!) - we just popped it off the pump motor and ran a section of wire zip-tied onto the temp. wire/insulation up to the choke, w/the appropriate spade connectors on each end:
Next step - tap the gas pedal, turn the key, and enjoy quick starting, a "proper" choke/fast idle, and neck-snapping acceleration ever' time you depress the loud pedal - Yes Please!
The 650 is a good size for your stock L79. It took some ***** to use a DP instead of the Hoover air flapper. What's your axle ratio?
Let me know how it responds if/when you mash it from a roll. If it bogs or can't "take" all the fuel, we can work on it.
Joe
04-06-2013, 10:47 AM
#9
12.14 w/ the original 327
Really happy with mine too. They did tell me to up the idle air bleeds and that I would need to up the power valve as well....5 minute job for both items. The carb has float bowl sight glasses that make setting the level a breeze; along with mixture screws with real 'heads' on them so a screwdriver actually works. And, the choke works like a choke should.
A very nice piece, and - as stated. a bolt on replacement for a Holley 4150. I don't do rubber fuel lines over a hot aluminum manifold so it was the Mr. Gasket kit with fuel pressure gauge for me.
Double throttle return spring are a good idea too (I run two of them as shown).
The only downside I see is that the Holley optional 'step-up' idle solenoid for A/C-equipped carbs won't fit the Q/F carb (and Q/F apparently doesn't offer their own). That thing only worked marginally anyway so no big loss. Holley jets and power valves will work in the Q/F but the Q/F power valves are "four door" valves and a little nicer.
Have to say working on my NOM Chevelle (unlike my nearly all original Corvette) has a nice sense of freedom about it. I can put upgrades on it, try different stuff and screw around with a few 'bling' options without offending the originality Gods...
A very nice piece, and - as stated. a bolt on replacement for a Holley 4150. I don't do rubber fuel lines over a hot aluminum manifold so it was the Mr. Gasket kit with fuel pressure gauge for me.
Double throttle return spring are a good idea too (I run two of them as shown).
The only downside I see is that the Holley optional 'step-up' idle solenoid for A/C-equipped carbs won't fit the Q/F carb (and Q/F apparently doesn't offer their own). That thing only worked marginally anyway so no big loss. Holley jets and power valves will work in the Q/F but the Q/F power valves are "four door" valves and a little nicer.
Have to say working on my NOM Chevelle (unlike my nearly all original Corvette) has a nice sense of freedom about it. I can put upgrades on it, try different stuff and screw around with a few 'bling' options without offending the originality Gods...
04-06-2013, 10:48 AM
#10
Le Mans Master
quick fuel is a great company and i have used their stuff for a while now
their carb kits are good too and usually cheaper than "pure holley"
the design is holley's but improved on by quick fuel, like msd does with their distributors vs. stockers, they both do essentially the same thing but with better more tuneable components, thanks to the hot rodding industry.....jmo
their carb kits are good too and usually cheaper than "pure holley"
the design is holley's but improved on by quick fuel, like msd does with their distributors vs. stockers, they both do essentially the same thing but with better more tuneable components, thanks to the hot rodding industry.....jmo
04-06-2013, 11:14 AM
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
Nice job!
The 650 is a good size for your stock L79. It took some ***** to use a DP instead of the Hoover air flapper. What's your axle ratio?
Let me know how it responds if/when you mash it from a roll. If it bogs or can't "take" all the fuel, we can work on it.
Joe
The 650 is a good size for your stock L79. It took some ***** to use a DP instead of the Hoover air flapper. What's your axle ratio?
Let me know how it responds if/when you mash it from a roll. If it bogs or can't "take" all the fuel, we can work on it.
Joe
RE ratio is 3.73; throttle response is INSTANTANEOUS - no bogging anyTIME! As Don said: "Best $400 that you've spent on this car so far!"
04-06-2013, 05:55 PM
#12
Safety Car
Joe - Well, it's a 600, not a 650. Not sure why it "took some *****" to use a double pumper over the vacuum secondaries - having driven dozens of cars w/vacuum secondaries ("I'm WAITING for those secondaries to kick in..."), vs. a few cars w/mechanical secondary carbs ("Ba-BAM - THERE those secondaries are!"), that was "Option #1" on my new carb checklist! The "seat of the pants" difference is remarkable; plus you can HEAR the secondaries kickin' in - sounds like a Tweaker suckin' down a Slurpee, LOL!
RE ratio is 3.73; throttle response is INSTANTANEOUS - no bogging anyTIME! As Don said: "Best $400 that you've spent on this car so far!"
RE ratio is 3.73; throttle response is INSTANTANEOUS - no bogging anyTIME! As Don said: "Best $400 that you've spent on this car so far!"
The comment about the "*****" was made facetiously, as there is a decent percentage of folks here who are conservative to a fault. The light car combined with the good axle ratio, manual trans, and relatively small throttle size makes the DP a no brainer.
04-06-2013, 07:57 PM
#14
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
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Well, after living with my "Blueprinted" stock Holley carb on my newly-acquired 1967 Coupe for about THREE days, I was ready for a change!
Caution: If you have NO interest in a close to "R&R" replacement carb that works about 1000% better - smoother idle, faster cold & hot starting, less fuel/exhaust smell, NO leaking, and lighter, then this thread is not for you! However, if you're sick and tired of the inherent foibles of the Holley carburetor,
Caution: If you have NO interest in a close to "R&R" replacement carb that works about 1000% better - smoother idle, faster cold & hot starting, less fuel/exhaust smell, NO leaking, and lighter, then this thread is not for you! However, if you're sick and tired of the inherent foibles of the Holley carburetor,
04-06-2013, 10:00 PM
#15
Team Owner
Have you tried the upper throttle position? You would need a bushing. it would give you a wider sweep of the gas pedal for a given amount of throttle opening. I prefer it on our 62. With the lower position, I found myself hitting the pedal a little hard and occasionally lighting the tires up when I didn't intend to.
04-06-2013, 10:19 PM
#16
Le Mans Master
..it's all about being happy, happy, happy....
04-07-2013, 08:48 AM
#17
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Apr 2009
Location: Virginia Beach VA
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Ganzman, thanks for the DIY. Did QF indicate to you when the Holley style front bowl will be available and do you plan to use it? Also, please let us know how your fuel economy works out compared to the Holley. I have the same engine with a replacement 3367 that I had rebuilt two years ago.it still works good but I don't care for the vacuum secondaries. The choke works fine so no issues there. It has started to weep gas at several spots and this is getting worst. I just don't want to put any more money into it. I would probably get a manual choke.
04-07-2013, 11:34 AM
#18
Racer
Thread Starter
Ganzman, thanks for the DIY. Did QF indicate to you when the Holley style front bowl will be available and do you plan to use it? Also, please let us know how your fuel economy works out compared to the Holley. I have the same engine with a replacement 3367 that I had rebuilt two years ago.it still works good but I don't care for the vacuum secondaries. The choke works fine so no issues there. It has started to weep gas at several spots and this is getting worst. I just don't want to put any more money into it. I would probably get a manual choke.
I didn't drive the car more than ~100 miles with that crappy Holley before replacing it, so it will be hard for me to "A-B" the fuel economy. Furthermore, ANY "fuel economy" discussions that *I* might offer would be immaterial to most folks, since I now (and will CONTINUE to) drive my car like I STOLE it EACH & EVERY time I get behind the wheel - the mechanical secondaries just "assist" that effort, LOL...
04-08-2013, 08:57 AM
#19
Melting Slicks
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Marc - No, he didn't; I got the impression that it would be pretty soon though. I WILL be retrofitting it to mine, just because I want the fuel filter to be "handier" to access - easy retrofit though, since all I'll need to do is replace the rubber line where I installed the inline filter from the steel line on the frame to the fuel pump.
I didn't drive the car more than ~100 miles with that crappy Holley before replacing it, so it will be hard for me to "A-B" the fuel economy. Furthermore, ANY "fuel economy" discussions that *I* might offer would be immaterial to most folks, since I now (and will CONTINUE to) drive my car like I STOLE it EACH & EVERY time I get behind the wheel - the mechanical secondaries just "assist" that effort, LOL...
I didn't drive the car more than ~100 miles with that crappy Holley before replacing it, so it will be hard for me to "A-B" the fuel economy. Furthermore, ANY "fuel economy" discussions that *I* might offer would be immaterial to most folks, since I now (and will CONTINUE to) drive my car like I STOLE it EACH & EVERY time I get behind the wheel - the mechanical secondaries just "assist" that effort, LOL...
04-08-2013, 10:37 AM
#20
Racer
Thread Starter
