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[PHOTOS] Part 3 Carlisle 2013

Old 08-26-2013, 10:44 PM
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1KULC7
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Default [PHOTOS] Part 3 Carlisle 2013

Here are some more photos, little of everything.....































And for a very special photo that I took.....



Here is a photo of me taken by my wife....



Thanks for looking, hope you enjoyed

Ebvette,
Collin MacDonald

Last edited by 1KULC7; 08-26-2013 at 10:49 PM.
Old 08-26-2013, 11:02 PM
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Grey Ghost
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Thanks.

How about the bikini contest ?
Old 08-26-2013, 11:22 PM
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1KULC7
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Originally Posted by Grey Ghost
Thanks.

How about the bikini contest ?
Not my style....when your married to the best, you have no interest in the rest.....
Old 08-27-2013, 12:36 AM
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THANKS for all the pics!!! Rick
Old 08-27-2013, 01:12 AM
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great to see the GLASSWORKS boys in attendance. the did a KILLER job on my 58 hardtop. THE BEST...
Old 08-27-2013, 12:04 PM
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Sky65
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Thanks for the pics! I was parts shopping and didn't get to see many of the cars.

Tom
Old 08-27-2013, 12:41 PM
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kenmo
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Very nice photos...many thanks for sharing......
Old 08-27-2013, 01:00 PM
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Another great selection of photos. Thanks again for sharing.
Old 08-27-2013, 01:28 PM
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Thanks for the great pictures.
Bruce B
Old 08-27-2013, 10:18 PM
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Great photos... thanks for sharing, you did a tremendous job!!!
Old 08-27-2013, 10:38 PM
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Great photos! When will your coffee table book be published? I was there but didn't see everyone you have photos of. Fantastic.
Old 08-27-2013, 10:42 PM
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Something about your camera seems to make the colors more vivid. Is there a filter or something you're using?

Love the night shot of the 63.
Old 08-28-2013, 08:48 AM
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Rich Yanulis
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Originally Posted by Zoomin
Something about your camera seems to make the colors more vivid.
I also thought the photo quality was fantastic

Originally Posted by EBVette
Nikon D800 with 24-75mm Nikkor f/2.8 Lense....
So, I did a little research on EB's setup.
From my perspective, he is using a VERY expensive camera.

In this situation, the old adage applies "you get what you pay for"

Old 08-28-2013, 11:59 AM
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Fawndeuce
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Originally Posted by Zoomin
Something about your camera seems to make the colors more vivid. Is there a filter or something you're using?
I'm sure he'll chime in, but he has either played with the color saturation and sharpness settings in the camera, or more likely with that camera he is shooting RAW format and is tweaking the images in post processing using software like Lightroom.
You don't need an expensive camera to get similar effects though, most cameras now let you adjust the settings by choosing say "Vivid" for greater color saturation etc., and most have preset special effects that you can choose from.

Great pictures.

Paul
Old 08-28-2013, 12:36 PM
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Beautiful pics......thanks for sharing.

I'd guess that, at the very minimum, Collin used a polarizing filter. A few do look like the color has been manipulated further. Maybe a plain old Scottish rose-colored lens.

Last edited by 65tripleblack; 08-28-2013 at 12:41 PM.
Old 08-28-2013, 03:44 PM
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1KULC7
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As stated previously I am using a Nikon D800 with the 24-75mm F2.8 Lense and I do use LR4 for after processing. However the camera is not set to Vivid color seetings, I don't use that, its a DSLR and I use natural or flash light. The main difference is the lens. Nikkor uses a multicoated nano finish that allows proper light distribusion to the cameras CMOS, talking English, its a find ground lens that provides superior light enhancment of the photos. LR4 is used to crop, balance the light using the Histogram which I use to process each photograph. This provides you true color, remember the day was very bright and clear, which helps with the final product. Most of my photos that day was shot at ISO of 400 or 200 with Shutter of 1/160 or 1/25 with any were between aperature of f 20 thru 8 depending up the brightness of the subject and if it was in shade or sunlight. When I process the file I use the balance part of LR4 between Shadows, Light, Dark, and sharpness and do use saturation to bring out the color and sharpness, many times I have to contrast down to get a good balance on the Histogram. If you introduct too much sharpness, you end up with noise, which is very undesirable. Using the Histogram as the primary tool allows you full balance and great color rendition. Once I finish with LR4 I use Adobe Elements 11 that provides a great method to resize, and correct color balance, using layers to burn or dodge, and use the clone or paintbrush tool to eliminate unwanted distractions in the photograph.

Only use a polorizing filter (circular adjusted) near water or shooting through glass, didn't have one with me this trip. I do have a VERY GOOD (very expensive) Nikon UV filter on the lense that does take away a lot of sun flair. Many cases I use the Nikon SB 900 flash unit for fill in light. Used flash shooting Chip's Choices, as the natural light was very bad, too yellow even though I pushed the camera's speed to 64,000, most cameras only go to 32,000 on ISO, but was not happy with results go alot of noise and detail loss, so I used my flash shooting at 1/160 with f8 or f11 at 400 or 800 ISO.

Remember I went to school for this and have been doing professional photography for almost 40 years, so you do learn alot on the way about light and depth of field etc. BTW I shoot ALL my photos RAW format and in the manual mode on the camera, NEVER do I shoot program or automatic. Some conditons I will use Shutter priority, mainly shooting aircraft. For this I shot manual, RAW files and by mistake the last 50 I shot went to JPG and limited my ability to process the files they way I wanted too. I also shoot center weighted spot metering giving more more control on the overall exposure.

Final thing, please remember, its not so much the camera,as the photographer. You need to see the photograph in your head before you press the shutter. You need to understand the light and how to capture it without be over or under exposed, which LR or any other program will not fix if you don't have a good file to start with. In other words, you need to understand the technical end of light and how to operate the various controls on the camera to capture a good exposure. Cell phones and point and shoot cameras operate on an average metering system, meaning it takes the average of all the light in the frame to determine the exposure. Good for snapshoots, not good for color and light management.

The camera and lens does make a difference when you know how to use it, just like any other tool. Use the right tool for the right job, and know how to use the tool to get the job done, and you will have great photos too. If you saw me at Carlisle you would notices I lugged that heavy camera everyplace I went. Trust me that camera is heavy. You ARE NOT going to capture photos like this with a cell phone, or a point and shoot, as you have no control over the light, and the environment around you. DSLR' still the best around, Cannon or Nikon, both are great cameras. Every photograph you see was processed to get the full rendition it could. I just did not dump these online and link them, the were professionaly processed.

Hope this helps out...

Collin
Ebvette

Last edited by 1KULC7; 08-28-2013 at 04:20 PM.
Old 08-28-2013, 04:17 PM
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1KULC7
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Originally Posted by Fawndeuce
I'm sure he'll chime in, but he has either played with the color saturation and sharpness settings in the camera, or more likely with that camera he is shooting RAW format and is tweaking the images in post processing using software like Lightroom.
You don't need an expensive camera to get similar effects though, most cameras now let you adjust the settings by choosing say "Vivid" for greater color saturation etc., and most have preset special effects that you can choose from.

Great pictures.

Paul
For the most part you are right, however, the vivid setting on a non DSLR robs peter to pay paul. Because you can only provide a certain amount of processing power in a inexpensive point and shoot or cell phone camera, they have used the vivid color, or potrait, or landscape, or micro settings, all you are doing is changing the basic average program settings to allow more or less light onto the CMOS. Basically you are manipulating the set alogorithms in the programing of the camera to perform a more specialized function, and all of these functions are very limited based on the cache, ROM, and CMOS capabilities of that camera, and that is base on how much you paid for it. Not saying they don't take good photographs, but just saying you are paying for processing power. For example my D800 (cost $2800 for body no lens) has about 36.3 Mega pixals FX-format CMOS sensor, while your normal $250.point and shot has about 12 Mega Pixels with a non FX format . That is a huge difference. Very few point and shoot cameras use glass lenses, most are plastic, and of a very small milimeter, while DSLR use glass or glass composite lenses that have a much larger millimter lense that allows for a larger file to projected or captured on the memory card through a larger CMOS. Finally, processing is everything, but if you do not have the detail, proper exposure, and contrast to begin with, process is useless. You still need to understand the mechanics of light and taking a photograph to get best results consistantly....

Last edited by 1KULC7; 09-02-2013 at 10:42 PM.
Old 09-02-2013, 07:16 PM
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Great photos. Not only do you have a great camera, but you are a talented photographer.

Last edited by wonderful; 09-02-2013 at 07:32 PM.
Old 09-02-2013, 10:44 PM
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1KULC7
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Originally Posted by wonderful
Great photos. Not only do you have a great camera, but you are a talented photographer.
Thank you.

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