Horn honks when I pull the steering wheel hard.
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Horn honks when I pull the steering wheel hard.
Whenever I take off hard or make tight hard turns, the horn honks. This happens because when I step on it, the torque forces me back into the seat, and I try to remain stabilized by holding onto the wheel real tight, it seems to tilt somewhat and something shorts in there. It honked so much at the last autocross that I was somewhat embarrassed, but spectators thought I was doing it on purpose. I've since disconnected the horns but I hate having to reconnect for regular driving, then disconnect for racing.
What could be causing this? It happened again last week when I took off from Ron's house. I attempted to peel out, and got a honk instead so I let off. Ron probably thought I was honking goodbye!
What could be causing this? It happened again last week when I took off from Ron's house. I attempted to peel out, and got a honk instead so I let off. Ron probably thought I was honking goodbye!
#2
Team Owner
Whenever I take off hard or make tight hard turns, the horn honks. This happens because when I step on it, the torque forces me back into the seat, and I try to remain stabilized by holding onto the wheel real tight, it seems to tilt somewhat and something shorts in there. It honked so much at the last autocross that I was somewhat embarrassed, but spectators thought I was doing it on purpose. I've since disconnected the horns but I hate having to reconnect for regular driving, then disconnect for racing.
What could be causing this? It happened again last week when I took off from Ron's house. I attempted to peel out, and got a honk instead so I let off. Ron probably thought I was honking goodbye!
What could be causing this? It happened again last week when I took off from Ron's house. I attempted to peel out, and got a honk instead so I let off. Ron probably thought I was honking goodbye!
Something as minor as your steering wheel not being properly torqued down can allow things to distort as you nail the gas and pull on the wheel. Next thing you know - HONK!
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 09-23-2010 at 12:14 PM.
#3
Moderator
Mine was the same. Rag joint issue. I went to my rag joint and made sure the steering column was pulled as far towards the front of the car as possible. Just loosen the pinch bolts and slide the serrated section to accomplish this. Never honked accidently since. If this doesn't cure yours you may need a new rag.
#4
Le Mans Master
I think you've got too much play between the upper and lower column bearings. Loosen the steering shaft at the rag joint such that the column can move freely there, then while someone is holding the steering wheel firmly down against the upper bearing, slide the preload spring and clamp at the lower bearing until it's almost fully compressed. There should be a slight clearance between the coils of the spring, but I don't remember the specification. Not much, but you can look it up.
Once the lower clamp has been tightened, be sure to tighten the clamp at the lower rag joint. I think that'll cure your problem.
Once the lower clamp has been tightened, be sure to tighten the clamp at the lower rag joint. I think that'll cure your problem.
#5
Melting Slicks
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C2 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
I had this problem, but had a different reason for it happening. The brass ring on the top bearing in the column has 3 tabs that hold it in place. One of the tabs came loose and it was slightly elevated off the surface. I glued it back in place and it solved my problem.
I know what you mean when you say it was embarrassing. People looked at me like I was crazy.
I know what you mean when you say it was embarrassing. People looked at me like I was crazy.
#6
Intermediate
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Sounds like a feature to me. With that much torque, it'd probably be too hard to reach all the way forward to push the horn button when you've got the pedal down.
#7
Burning Brakes
had the same thing happening on my 64. under the hood on the steering saft theres a spring that holds the lower steering bearing up. push it up tighter to the bearing and retighten. it'll keep the steering wheel from pulling out tward you and keep from shorting. worked for me!!
#8
had the same thing happening on my 64. under the hood on the steering saft theres a spring that holds the lower steering bearing up. push it up tighter to the bearing and retighten. it'll keep the steering wheel from pulling out tward you and keep from shorting. worked for me!!
#9
Le Mans Master
had the same thing happening on my 64. under the hood on the steering saft theres a spring that holds the lower steering bearing up. push it up tighter to the bearing and retighten. it'll keep the steering wheel from pulling out tward you and keep from shorting. worked for me!!
I think you've got too much play between the upper and lower column bearings. Loosen the steering shaft at the rag joint such that the column can move freely there, then while someone is holding the steering wheel firmly down against the upper bearing, slide the preload spring and clamp at the lower bearing until it's almost fully compressed. There should be a slight clearance between the coils of the spring, but I don't remember the specification. Not much, but you can look it up.
Once the lower clamp has been tightened, be sure to tighten the clamp at the lower rag joint. I think that'll cure your problem.
Once the lower clamp has been tightened, be sure to tighten the clamp at the lower rag joint. I think that'll cure your problem.
Whatever works for you . . . . . .
#10
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
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The horn works by grounding a coil in the horn relay, which then closes contacts that connect 12 volts to the horns. The wire to that coil in the horn relay is a 20-ga. black, in the curved harmonica connector under the steering column.
That wire (in the turn signal switch) connects to the flat brass ring on top of the switch. Then the bottom end of the spring-loaded horn contact/brush in the cancelling cam rides on the brass ring, and the top end of the contact/brush piece contacts the "leg" on the bottom of the horn contact assembly that screws to the steering wheel hub. When you push on the horn button, the wave washer in the horn contact assembly deflects, and completes the circuit from the brass ring on the switch to the steering wheel hub, which provides ground through the steering shaft and rag joint to the frame, and the horn blows.
Whatever is causing the momentary ground (which blows the horn) is between the turn signal switch and the horn button.
That wire (in the turn signal switch) connects to the flat brass ring on top of the switch. Then the bottom end of the spring-loaded horn contact/brush in the cancelling cam rides on the brass ring, and the top end of the contact/brush piece contacts the "leg" on the bottom of the horn contact assembly that screws to the steering wheel hub. When you push on the horn button, the wave washer in the horn contact assembly deflects, and completes the circuit from the brass ring on the switch to the steering wheel hub, which provides ground through the steering shaft and rag joint to the frame, and the horn blows.
Whatever is causing the momentary ground (which blows the horn) is between the turn signal switch and the horn button.
#11
Le Mans Master
The horn works by grounding a coil in the horn relay, which then closes contacts that connect 12 volts to the horns. The wire to that coil in the horn relay is a 20-ga. black, in the curved harmonica connector under the steering column.
That wire (in the turn signal switch) connects to the flat brass ring on top of the switch. Then the bottom end of the spring-loaded horn contact/brush in the cancelling cam rides on the brass ring, and the top end of the contact/brush piece contacts the "leg" on the bottom of the horn contact assembly that screws to the steering wheel hub. When you push on the horn button, the wave washer in the horn contact assembly deflects, and completes the circuit from the brass ring on the switch to the steering wheel hub, which provides ground through the steering shaft and rag joint to the frame, and the horn blows.
Whatever is causing the momentary ground (which blows the horn) is between the turn signal switch and the horn button.
That wire (in the turn signal switch) connects to the flat brass ring on top of the switch. Then the bottom end of the spring-loaded horn contact/brush in the cancelling cam rides on the brass ring, and the top end of the contact/brush piece contacts the "leg" on the bottom of the horn contact assembly that screws to the steering wheel hub. When you push on the horn button, the wave washer in the horn contact assembly deflects, and completes the circuit from the brass ring on the switch to the steering wheel hub, which provides ground through the steering shaft and rag joint to the frame, and the horn blows.
Whatever is causing the momentary ground (which blows the horn) is between the turn signal switch and the horn button.
#12
Le Mans Master
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Carlos,
I also had this problem. I replaced the lower and upper bearings and made sure the spring was pushed up tight for the lower bearing.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/GroupDetails/SubGroupResults.aspx?gid={9aa8fe57-5d3e-4cf1-80b1-359b56d4d087}&SearchType=_GROUP_SEARCH&G roupName=63-66+Steering+Column&
I also had this problem. I replaced the lower and upper bearings and made sure the spring was pushed up tight for the lower bearing.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/GroupDetails/SubGroupResults.aspx?gid={9aa8fe57-5d3e-4cf1-80b1-359b56d4d087}&SearchType=_GROUP_SEARCH&G roupName=63-66+Steering+Column&
#13
Carlos,
I also had this problem. I replaced the lower and upper bearings and made sure the spring was pushed up tight for the lower bearing.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/GroupDetails/SubGroupResults.aspx?gid={9aa8fe57-5d3e-4cf1-80b1-359b56d4d087}&SearchType=_GROUP_SEARCH&G roupName=63-66+Steering+Column&
I also had this problem. I replaced the lower and upper bearings and made sure the spring was pushed up tight for the lower bearing.
http://www.zip-corvette.com/GroupDetails/SubGroupResults.aspx?gid={9aa8fe57-5d3e-4cf1-80b1-359b56d4d087}&SearchType=_GROUP_SEARCH&G roupName=63-66+Steering+Column&
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Sounds like a feature to me. With that much torque, it'd probably be too hard to reach all the way forward to push the horn button when you've got the pedal down.
Ha ha, very funny! But that's exactly how it felt, so I had to hold on to something for dear life, and that was the steering wheel!
Carlos, I too had this problem. I removed the wire to the horn relay and the honking stopped!
Ha ha, very funny also! Actually, I did that for awhile!
I was at Ron's garage today and I asked him to pull on the steering wheel, and lo and behold, I saw the column pull out of the rag joint housing!!!
The pinch bolt was very tight, yet allowed the shaft to pull out, so I added a couple of lock washers and that fixed the problem! Since the bolt was only threaded half way, it wasn't compressing the column, just tightening on itself. I've been driving like that since I got the car!!!
Ha ha, very funny! But that's exactly how it felt, so I had to hold on to something for dear life, and that was the steering wheel!
Carlos, I too had this problem. I removed the wire to the horn relay and the honking stopped!
Ha ha, very funny also! Actually, I did that for awhile!
I was at Ron's garage today and I asked him to pull on the steering wheel, and lo and behold, I saw the column pull out of the rag joint housing!!!
The pinch bolt was very tight, yet allowed the shaft to pull out, so I added a couple of lock washers and that fixed the problem! Since the bolt was only threaded half way, it wasn't compressing the column, just tightening on itself. I've been driving like that since I got the car!!!
Last edited by Astrodokk; 09-25-2010 at 01:43 AM.
#15
Pinch bolt
When I first bought my '64 the pinch bolt was NOT on the flat of the shaft, this is a must for correct tightness. The curvature of the splines prevent this.
I guess the spokes of the steering wheel was not right inside the car and whoever wanted it to be correct didnt know that it must be on that flat and took the easy way to correct the alignment of the steering wheel. [Instead of the pulling the steering wheel]
BTW I have gone to car shows and looked at other C-2's and have noticed the flat in the wrong position, tried to explain this to the owner and they were not mechanically inclined and the explaination ,I think ,was futile.
If the small spines get play in them and start to wear, and strip, there is a possibility the ability to steer the car will disappear.
If my car had the bolt in the location and if I have seen others in the wrong location ,I wonder how many others there are across the USA and Canada?
Just in case check yours out.
I guess the spokes of the steering wheel was not right inside the car and whoever wanted it to be correct didnt know that it must be on that flat and took the easy way to correct the alignment of the steering wheel. [Instead of the pulling the steering wheel]
BTW I have gone to car shows and looked at other C-2's and have noticed the flat in the wrong position, tried to explain this to the owner and they were not mechanically inclined and the explaination ,I think ,was futile.
If the small spines get play in them and start to wear, and strip, there is a possibility the ability to steer the car will disappear.
If my car had the bolt in the location and if I have seen others in the wrong location ,I wonder how many others there are across the USA and Canada?
Just in case check yours out.
#16
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
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The flat on the input shaft at 12 o'clock with the gear centered didn't start until 1969; prior to that, the shaft just had a full circumferential groove at the bolt location.
#17
Le Mans Master
When I first bought my '64 the pinch bolt was NOT on the flat of the shaft, this is a must for correct tightness. The curvature of the splines prevent this.
I guess the spokes of the steering wheel was not right inside the car and whoever wanted it to be correct didnt know that it must be on that flat and took the easy way to correct the alignment of the steering wheel. [Instead of the pulling the steering wheel]
BTW I have gone to car shows and looked at other C-2's and have noticed the flat in the wrong position, tried to explain this to the owner and they were not mechanically inclined and the explaination ,I think ,was futile.
If the small spines get play in them and start to wear, and strip, there is a possibility the ability to steer the car will disappear.
If my car had the bolt in the location and if I have seen others in the wrong location ,I wonder how many others there are across the USA and Canada?
Just in case check yours out.
I guess the spokes of the steering wheel was not right inside the car and whoever wanted it to be correct didnt know that it must be on that flat and took the easy way to correct the alignment of the steering wheel. [Instead of the pulling the steering wheel]
BTW I have gone to car shows and looked at other C-2's and have noticed the flat in the wrong position, tried to explain this to the owner and they were not mechanically inclined and the explaination ,I think ,was futile.
If the small spines get play in them and start to wear, and strip, there is a possibility the ability to steer the car will disappear.
If my car had the bolt in the location and if I have seen others in the wrong location ,I wonder how many others there are across the USA and Canada?
Just in case check yours out.
The steering wheel shaft has a flat to allow the column to be adjusted in/out to some degree. But, I'm not sure how you'd get the clamp bolt in the clamp if the flat is misaligned too much! Not running without a clamp bolt, I hope!!!
Last edited by Ron Miller; 09-25-2010 at 04:22 PM.
#18
Mine has a flat on the bottom of the center steering column long solid shaft that goes all the way up to the steering wheel. The flat is where it goes into the rag joint cast coupling.[the end towards the steering wheel] I guess you misunderstood my description of where it is.
Ed
#19
Safety Car
I had this problem, but had a different reason for it happening. The brass ring on the top bearing in the column has 3 tabs that hold it in place. One of the tabs came loose and it was slightly elevated off the surface. I glued it back in place and it solved my problem.
I know what you mean when you say it was embarrassing. People looked at me like I was crazy.
I know what you mean when you say it was embarrassing. People looked at me like I was crazy.
larry
#20
Instructor
Member Since: Feb 2011
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Horn Honks
All right gang, I have the same honking problem on my 61, since I rebuilt the column. I took the entire horn assemble off the column and just had the worm gear shaft sticking out of upper rubber ring with the brass collar, with the black ground wire. Horn still honks when when turning the shaft. The only thing I think it could be is the ground wire attached the to collar. Does that sound right? I dont understand how a rag joint comes into the picture?
Thanks
Thanks