383 stroker vs 327 in 64 vette
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
383 stroker vs 327 in 64 vette
Hello, Happy Winter,
OK, does the 383 stroker have the same mountings as the 327.
Also will my edelbrock rpm intake fit( with upgraded carb) and my hooker super side exhaust long headers as well as the current HEI with the mech. tag. and bell housing etc. with my 5 speed keisler.
Sofar just dreaming but if it fits ????????? LOL
Thanks guys,
Frank.
OK, does the 383 stroker have the same mountings as the 327.
Also will my edelbrock rpm intake fit( with upgraded carb) and my hooker super side exhaust long headers as well as the current HEI with the mech. tag. and bell housing etc. with my 5 speed keisler.
Sofar just dreaming but if it fits ????????? LOL
Thanks guys,
Frank.
#2
Race Director
Assuming it is built on a gen 1 block, it is identical externally to an old 327, so, yes everything will fit .
Assuming it uses a neutral flywheel,and is internally balanced.
Doug
Assuming it uses a neutral flywheel,and is internally balanced.
Doug
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks Doug,
Good info I hadn't thought about. Does that mean also a gen 1 won't make as much hp as general rule.
#4
Melting Slicks
You can go as simple as swapping out short block only and keeping everything else...heads, headers, intake, carb and all, even the cam if you were so inclined. Crankcase ventilation is the only issue when changing over from the 327 block and it's been addressed dozens of times here with as many variations in execution.
#5
Melting Slicks
1) 383 Short block is identical to your 327 except for crankcase ventilation
2) Aftermarket heads with raised exhaust ports will cause you grief with sidepipes, requiring some fabrication.
3) Edelbrock RPM will not fit under stock hood. You "may" get by with a drop base air cleaner.
4)The block mounts for a SBC from 55-86 are all the same. Just ensure that it has a boss for the clutch Z bar!
2) Aftermarket heads with raised exhaust ports will cause you grief with sidepipes, requiring some fabrication.
3) Edelbrock RPM will not fit under stock hood. You "may" get by with a drop base air cleaner.
4)The block mounts for a SBC from 55-86 are all the same. Just ensure that it has a boss for the clutch Z bar!
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
You can go as simple as swapping out short block only and keeping everything else...heads, headers, intake, carb and all, even the cam if you were so inclined. Crankcase ventilation is the only issue when changing over from the 327 block and it's been addressed dozens of times here with as many variations in execution.
#7
Race Director
#8
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58 - 96 were all on the sides of the blocks, but 55 - 57 motor mount bosses were on the front of the block only.
Jim
#9
Melting Slicks
There MIGHT be an issue fitting power steering pump bracket on the GMPP ZZ (i.e. ZZ383) engines. I've heard this from two reliable sources. Can anyone confirm?
Harry
Harry
#10
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Everything has pretty much been covered above.
Without changing over to a Big Block, you can literally bolt in any first genetation all the way up to the Small Block 400 and ALLLLLLLLL parts and accessories are a bolt-on fit (as already pointed out, crankcase ventilation is the only issue to deal with). With a SB400, it can easily be opened up to as much as 420 at minimal added machining/expense.
The lighter weight of a SB400 vs the weight of a BB, retro roller cam and a set of well worked early stock double hump heads will produce an incredible beast! And it all looks factory bone stock.
If you want to eliminate the hassle of figuring out how to configure a crankcase ventilation setup, a 327 block with the rear hole CAN BE opened up to 383, which of course will require some additional machining expense. Staying with a 67-earlier 327 block will permit retaining ALLLLLLLLLLL the stock appearance features of the factory engine, such as valve covers WITHOUT holes in them.
Without changing over to a Big Block, you can literally bolt in any first genetation all the way up to the Small Block 400 and ALLLLLLLLL parts and accessories are a bolt-on fit (as already pointed out, crankcase ventilation is the only issue to deal with). With a SB400, it can easily be opened up to as much as 420 at minimal added machining/expense.
The lighter weight of a SB400 vs the weight of a BB, retro roller cam and a set of well worked early stock double hump heads will produce an incredible beast! And it all looks factory bone stock.
If you want to eliminate the hassle of figuring out how to configure a crankcase ventilation setup, a 327 block with the rear hole CAN BE opened up to 383, which of course will require some additional machining expense. Staying with a 67-earlier 327 block will permit retaining ALLLLLLLLLLL the stock appearance features of the factory engine, such as valve covers WITHOUT holes in them.
#11
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone, with all your info perhaps i'll stay with what I have. my 327 with high flowing AFR180 allum. heads, a mild comp. cam and yes an ededlbrock rpm intake with a holley 670 street avenger carb.( it just fits ) and hooker header performance side exhaust coupled to a Keisler 5 speed trans with a low 3.38 first gear and a 0.67 overdrive 5th. I think I'll just drive it and be happy, :-) until I get itchy again, LOL
#13
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When wmf62 put a GMPP ZZ4 in his 62, it came with a plastic timing cover, and a stock "short" water pump will not work (he ended up using an Edelbrock "short" pump).
It did not affect his PS pump mounting (he has R&P power steering and side mounts), but depending on mounting brackets, I can see where it might.
Plasticman
Last edited by Plasticman; 02-19-2014 at 10:08 AM.
#14
Le Mans Master
If you want to eliminate the hassle of figuring out how to configure a crankcase ventilation setup, a 327 block with the rear hole CAN BE opened up to 383, which of course will require some additional machining expense. Staying with a 67-earlier 327 block will permit retaining ALLLLLLLLLLL the stock appearance features of the factory engine, such as valve covers WITHOUT holes in them.
#15
Racer
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#16
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#17
Burning Brakes
Frank do you mean an engine dyno versus a chassis dyno? Chassis dyno you just strap her down and run the car on rollers which will give you rear wheel HP. It will yield a lower number then an engine dyno due to drive train loss. Engine dyno you would have to pull your engine out. Chassis dyno is quick and easy.
#18
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I've got a complete '65 3782870 engine that I'm planning to build for my '64 and while I'd love to make a 383 out of it I understand the associated costs can be prohibitive. Also, just finding a machine shop that I'd trust enough to do the work might not be easy for me find. If you've got a good recipe please let me know.
#19
Le Mans Master
#20
Racer
Thread Starter
Frank do you mean an engine dyno versus a chassis dyno? Chassis dyno you just strap her down and run the car on rollers which will give you rear wheel HP. It will yield a lower number then an engine dyno due to drive train loss. Engine dyno you would have to pull your engine out. Chassis dyno is quick and easy.