This maybe a stupid question
03-10-2014, 10:13 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
This maybe a stupid question
Hello
I looked at my differential carrier. The carrier bolt have worn and oblong holes in the carrier. I have a 1964 carrier that has two welded washers on each side.
My question is...how much of a PITA will this be to swap the old carrier for the new carrier..
Somehow the "easy stuff" is always a PITA
I looked at my differential carrier. The carrier bolt have worn and oblong holes in the carrier. I have a 1964 carrier that has two welded washers on each side.
My question is...how much of a PITA will this be to swap the old carrier for the new carrier..
Somehow the "easy stuff" is always a PITA
03-11-2014, 01:01 AM
#2
Drifting
The only stupid question is the one that doesn't get asked!!
It's not an easy job. All of the obvious stuff -- spring, halfshafts, driveshaft, etc., have to be disconnected. The diff is attached to the crossmember with "blind" bolts. They're coming in from the top and can't be reached. Some people remove the crossmember and diff as a unit. Only two bolts holding the crossmember, but getting the crossmember off the bushings that it attaches to is a multi-beer job. It may be a good idea though; your bushings are probably in need of replacement after all these years.
Some people, so I've heard, have drilled holes in the floor in the back of the passenger compartment to get at the diff mounting bolts without removing the crossmember.
It's not an easy job. All of the obvious stuff -- spring, halfshafts, driveshaft, etc., have to be disconnected. The diff is attached to the crossmember with "blind" bolts. They're coming in from the top and can't be reached. Some people remove the crossmember and diff as a unit. Only two bolts holding the crossmember, but getting the crossmember off the bushings that it attaches to is a multi-beer job. It may be a good idea though; your bushings are probably in need of replacement after all these years.
Some people, so I've heard, have drilled holes in the floor in the back of the passenger compartment to get at the diff mounting bolts without removing the crossmember.
03-11-2014, 07:06 AM
#3
Team Owner
It will get you more focused help if you title your thread something pertaining to your question. "stupid question", or "help" as an entire title may not attract the expert you need and makes it difficult for you and anyone else trying to search for similar help to find that help. Everyone complains about the effectiveness of search on the forum, and using titles that define your issue would help with that.
IDg~~60_57.JPG)
03-11-2014, 10:00 AM
#6
Melting Slicks
I think there is a procedure in the shop manual for cutting a hole in the jack well behind the seats to get one the Long bolt(s) out. It applied just to early C2's (63-64?).
To pull the snubber bolt, pull the driveshaft first. You should be able to get a wrench on the bolt then.
You can avoid cutting the hole, if you're willing to do enough disassembly to drop the rear crossmember, then only the snubber bolt needs to come out.
Be patient, it's just nuts and bolts...
Harry
Edit.. I should have added that it MAY be possible to swap the rear end out by pulling just the snubber bolt and splitting the housing by pulling the 8 bolts that connect the cover to the rest of the assembly. You'll have to get the exhaust system, the halfshafts and strut rod bracket out of the way first.
To pull the snubber bolt, pull the driveshaft first. You should be able to get a wrench on the bolt then.
You can avoid cutting the hole, if you're willing to do enough disassembly to drop the rear crossmember, then only the snubber bolt needs to come out.
Be patient, it's just nuts and bolts...
Harry
Edit.. I should have added that it MAY be possible to swap the rear end out by pulling just the snubber bolt and splitting the housing by pulling the 8 bolts that connect the cover to the rest of the assembly. You'll have to get the exhaust system, the halfshafts and strut rod bracket out of the way first.
Last edited by 66since71; 03-11-2014 at 11:44 AM.
03-11-2014, 10:34 AM
#7
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 1999
Location: Beverly Hills/Pine Ridge Florida
Posts: 10,733
Received 561 Likes
on
349 Posts
I've pulled rear ends by reaching over the X member and removing the 4 5/8" bolts with a 6 point socket.
You have to balance the rear on a floor jack.........then lower it down.
Chuck
PS: I gotta think about this.
IIRC, you've got one bolt that goes all the way through, and 2 bolts that screw into the housing itself. Sound right?
You have to balance the rear on a floor jack.........then lower it down.
Chuck
PS: I gotta think about this.
IIRC, you've got one bolt that goes all the way through, and 2 bolts that screw into the housing itself. Sound right?
03-11-2014, 05:15 PM
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I've pulled rear ends by reaching over the X member and removing the 4 5/8" bolts with a 6 point socket.
You have to balance the rear on a floor jack.........then lower it down.
Chuck
PS: I gotta think about this.
IIRC, you've got one bolt that goes all the way through, and 2 bolts that screw into the housing itself. Sound right?
You have to balance the rear on a floor jack.........then lower it down.
Chuck
PS: I gotta think about this.
IIRC, you've got one bolt that goes all the way through, and 2 bolts that screw into the housing itself. Sound right?
03-14-2014, 01:02 AM
#9
Drifting
You will need to modify the later part with the two holes for the Parking Brake cable bracket.
In restoring my '63 vert. - I found my holes were oblong as well. I modified a later diff. carrier identical to one shown here with the washers - one of the few not original rear suspension parts on my car.
In restoring my '63 vert. - I found my holes were oblong as well. I modified a later diff. carrier identical to one shown here with the washers - one of the few not original rear suspension parts on my car.