327/365Hp ?
#1
327/365Hp ?
I recently purchased a 1964 stingray touted as a "327/365". Now, the engine had been decked (number removed), which I knew going in. I had a reputable guy inspect it, and while there are indications that the car truly is as noted above (and he agreed, but could not certify) , the lack of the engine number means that it cannot be confirmed. I purchased the car based on the fact that it was NOT a 327/365 and the pricing reflected that.
Now, I tend to think (based on some evidence) that the motor may be a 327/365, here are the facts. It has...
1. aluminum intake with winters snowflake
2. Holley carb
3. peeling 365 sticker on valve covers
The thing that concerns me is that the tachometer does not have the 6500 redline.... Car was also supposed to be an original 38K mile car (two owner/family owned, original for the most part), and again, the inspector felt that this was true, but could not verify that. Maybe the tach and car are original, but different motor? Tried to verify through GM and VIN number, but found out that there is no way to determine what was in the car originally by the VIN alone.
Is there any other way to determine what engine this is, for sure? In the long run, it doesn't matter, I love the car, but I don't want to say I have a 327/365 and then a true corvette guy sees the tach......
Thanks,
Kim
Now, I tend to think (based on some evidence) that the motor may be a 327/365, here are the facts. It has...
1. aluminum intake with winters snowflake
2. Holley carb
3. peeling 365 sticker on valve covers
The thing that concerns me is that the tachometer does not have the 6500 redline.... Car was also supposed to be an original 38K mile car (two owner/family owned, original for the most part), and again, the inspector felt that this was true, but could not verify that. Maybe the tach and car are original, but different motor? Tried to verify through GM and VIN number, but found out that there is no way to determine what was in the car originally by the VIN alone.
Is there any other way to determine what engine this is, for sure? In the long run, it doesn't matter, I love the car, but I don't want to say I have a 327/365 and then a true corvette guy sees the tach......
Thanks,
Kim
#2
I recently purchased a 1964 stingray touted as a "327/365". Now, the engine had been decked (number removed), which I knew going in. I had a reputable guy inspect it, and while there are indications that the car truly is as noted above (and he agreed, but could not certify) , the lack of the engine number means that it cannot be confirmed. I purchased the car based on the fact that it was NOT a 327/365 and the pricing reflected that.
Now, I tend to think (based on some evidence) that the motor may be a 327/365, here are the facts. It has...
1. aluminum intake with winters snowflake
2. Holley carb
3. peeling 365 sticker on valve covers
The thing that concerns me is that the tachometer does not have the 6500 redline.... Car was also supposed to be an original 38K mile car (two owner/family owned, original for the most part), and again, the inspector felt that this was true, but could not verify that. Maybe the tach and car are original, but different motor? Tried to verify through GM and VIN number, but found out that there is no way to determine what was in the car originally by the VIN alone.
Is there any other way to determine what engine this is, for sure? In the long run, it doesn't matter, I love the car, but I don't want to say I have a 327/365 and then a true corvette guy sees the tach......
Thanks,
Kim
Now, I tend to think (based on some evidence) that the motor may be a 327/365, here are the facts. It has...
1. aluminum intake with winters snowflake
2. Holley carb
3. peeling 365 sticker on valve covers
The thing that concerns me is that the tachometer does not have the 6500 redline.... Car was also supposed to be an original 38K mile car (two owner/family owned, original for the most part), and again, the inspector felt that this was true, but could not verify that. Maybe the tach and car are original, but different motor? Tried to verify through GM and VIN number, but found out that there is no way to determine what was in the car originally by the VIN alone.
Is there any other way to determine what engine this is, for sure? In the long run, it doesn't matter, I love the car, but I don't want to say I have a 327/365 and then a true corvette guy sees the tach......
Thanks,
Kim
Back in the day decking a block was not unusual. The engine casting #'s on the drivers side back and the casting date cast into the back passinger side can help. From what I can see in your pics it looks like the real deal.
The early 1965 L-79 engines had a lower tach redline and that may true of the some 64's so check closer as it may be correct.
#3
Race Director
Good advice from "tbarb". In addition, I would check the List Number and date code from the carb, distributor metal band number and date, the aluminum manifold casting/part number, casting codes and dates on the heads, and whether it has the 5 quart oversized oil pan that was only used on the SHP motors (6 qt oil system).
Finally, just listen to the engine. The 327/365 HP engine with the 30-30 factory cam has a very distinct and special sound. Very lopy idle, that doesn't want to idle well below about 900 RPM. To many of us, this sound is awesome…………especially thru a set of 4-tube headers and glass packs.
Without having the engine apart, or having the engine pad stamping, you need to look at the sum of the parts (along with the date codes) to get the best idea of what you really have.
Larry
Finally, just listen to the engine. The 327/365 HP engine with the 30-30 factory cam has a very distinct and special sound. Very lopy idle, that doesn't want to idle well below about 900 RPM. To many of us, this sound is awesome…………especially thru a set of 4-tube headers and glass packs.
Without having the engine apart, or having the engine pad stamping, you need to look at the sum of the parts (along with the date codes) to get the best idea of what you really have.
Larry
Last edited by Powershift; 06-17-2014 at 11:37 AM.
#4
Team Owner
Kim,
Back in the day decking a block was not unusual. The engine casting #'s on the drivers side back and the casting date cast into the back passinger side can help. From what I can see in your pics it looks like the real deal.
The early 1965 L-79 engines had a lower tach redline and that may true of the some 64's so check closer as it may be correct.
Back in the day decking a block was not unusual. The engine casting #'s on the drivers side back and the casting date cast into the back passinger side can help. From what I can see in your pics it looks like the real deal.
The early 1965 L-79 engines had a lower tach redline and that may true of the some 64's so check closer as it may be correct.
In addition to the things listed, a 365 hp car should also have solid lifters
#5
Race Director
Larry
#7
Le Mans Master
#8
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
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The only way to know what you really have is to tear it down and look at the parts/pieces in the engine.
One thing. If it's not too late, can you verify what camshaft is in the engine from the seller? It will be important down the road. If you're happey with the car and the way it runs, that would be my only concern.
One thing. If it's not too late, can you verify what camshaft is in the engine from the seller? It will be important down the road. If you're happey with the car and the way it runs, that would be my only concern.
#9
Melting Slicks
Just do a re-stamp.... shhh, no one will ever know.
#11
Instructor
You have many correct L76 parts but some are not pictured
Do you have an idler and 2 pulley set.....should have the large diameter alternator pulley for 6500 rpm....I think your transmission just be a M21 and you could not order PS. The waterpump, bypass hose, oil fill tube and cap are all special to L76, get an assembly manual and look under L 76 it lists all parts needed.
I recently purchased a 1964 stingray touted as a "327/365". Now, the engine had been decked (number removed), which I knew going in. I had a reputable guy inspect it, and while there are indications that the car truly is as noted above (and he agreed, but could not certify) , the lack of the engine number means that it cannot be confirmed. I purchased the car based on the fact that it was NOT a 327/365 and the pricing reflected that.
Now, I tend to think (based on some evidence) that the motor may be a 327/365, here are the facts. It has...
1. aluminum intake with winters snowflake
2. Holley carb
3. peeling 365 sticker on valve covers
The thing that concerns me is that the tachometer does not have the 6500 redline.... Car was also supposed to be an original 38K mile car (two owner/family owned, original for the most part), and again, the inspector felt that this was true, but could not verify that. Maybe the tach and car are original, but different motor? Tried to verify through GM and VIN number, but found out that there is no way to determine what was in the car originally by the VIN alone.
Is there any other way to determine what engine this is, for sure? In the long run, it doesn't matter, I love the car, but I don't want to say I have a 327/365 and then a true corvette guy sees the tach......
Thanks,
Kim
Now, I tend to think (based on some evidence) that the motor may be a 327/365, here are the facts. It has...
1. aluminum intake with winters snowflake
2. Holley carb
3. peeling 365 sticker on valve covers
The thing that concerns me is that the tachometer does not have the 6500 redline.... Car was also supposed to be an original 38K mile car (two owner/family owned, original for the most part), and again, the inspector felt that this was true, but could not verify that. Maybe the tach and car are original, but different motor? Tried to verify through GM and VIN number, but found out that there is no way to determine what was in the car originally by the VIN alone.
Is there any other way to determine what engine this is, for sure? In the long run, it doesn't matter, I love the car, but I don't want to say I have a 327/365 and then a true corvette guy sees the tach......
Thanks,
Kim
#12
Team Owner
I agree, I just don't understand tbarb's mixing in the L79 lower redline that "may be true in 64" and make it correct (for L76?). I'm confused by the reference.
#13
Both the 64/65 vette 327/365 had the 6500 RPM redline.
The 327/365 also had unique to them
5 quart oil pan (6 quart system)
No power steering
Idler puley on drivers side of engine.
80 psi oil gauge - 60 psi relief spring on oil pump
Aluminum intake (winters 461)
1.60/2.02 heads (remove valve covers and look at the numbers
Holley 2818 carb.
Unique part number on distributor band
Chrome dip stick
2.5" exhaust manifolds
30-30 camshaft
Forged 2880 crank with bolt for balancer
Forged pistons
The 327/365 also had unique to them
5 quart oil pan (6 quart system)
No power steering
Idler puley on drivers side of engine.
80 psi oil gauge - 60 psi relief spring on oil pump
Aluminum intake (winters 461)
1.60/2.02 heads (remove valve covers and look at the numbers
Holley 2818 carb.
Unique part number on distributor band
Chrome dip stick
2.5" exhaust manifolds
30-30 camshaft
Forged 2880 crank with bolt for balancer
Forged pistons
Last edited by ghostrider20; 06-18-2014 at 01:17 AM.
#14
Le Mans Master
I know my car was a 250 or 300 hp car and like I said earlier all '64s have a 80 psi oil pressure gauge and all '64s have a 240° temp gauge. I checked my car and verified my findings with many of the parts suppliers.
#15
Looking at the pictures posted, it seems like a correct L-76 engine, on the back of the dash cluster there should be some identifying broadcast code that may help.
#16
Tech Contributor
To my knowledge, the same head was used whether a 1.94 or 2.02" intake valve was present, the difference being the machining of the valve areas.
A borescope through the spark plug hole is the easiest way to look for the 1.94 versus 2.02 intake valve, sans removing the head.
Tom (DZAuto) posted these excellent pictures showing the size of the gap between intake and exhaust valves in both the 1.94 and 2.02 intake configuration. Using a borescope on my own 65 I was able to confirm my L79 clone was built using 1.94 valves.
From this post:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1585430245-post26.html
2.02 Intake valves
1.94 Intake valves
A borescope through the spark plug hole is the easiest way to look for the 1.94 versus 2.02 intake valve, sans removing the head.
Tom (DZAuto) posted these excellent pictures showing the size of the gap between intake and exhaust valves in both the 1.94 and 2.02 intake configuration. Using a borescope on my own 65 I was able to confirm my L79 clone was built using 1.94 valves.
From this post:
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1585430245-post26.html
2.02 Intake valves
1.94 Intake valves
#17
Drifting
I own one of these and will be glad to help with details. All of the above is true. The NCRS judging guide for 63-64 will do most of the above and more. Pretty much every detail is listed in this guide with part numbers. Will be money well spent if you want to fix the details later also.
Steve
Steve
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64_365 (01-18-2019)
#18
Le Mans Master
As many have said i would check the the date on the heads, intake, exhaust manifolds, bell housing, fuel lines from the pump to carb, oil pan and so on that only used on L76 engines
If the engine/date of the engine and the L76 parts and dates matches within a certain time before the the date on your car that would indicate that it is a original L76 SPH car
Here is a couple of drawings of the L76 engine from the 1964 assembly manual showing the pulley and fuel line
If the engine/date of the engine and the L76 parts and dates matches within a certain time before the the date on your car that would indicate that it is a original L76 SPH car
Here is a couple of drawings of the L76 engine from the 1964 assembly manual showing the pulley and fuel line
Last edited by TheSaint; 06-18-2014 at 09:49 AM.
#19
I am trying to confirm what it is. Most indicators point to a 327/365, with the exception of the tach, which is supposedly stock (as is the motor). but the tach has a 5300 redline.
#20
As many have said i would check the the date on the heads, intake, exhaust manifolds, bell housing, fuel lines from the pump to carb, oil pan and so on that only used on L76 engines
If the engine/date of the engine and the L76 parts and dates matches within a certain time before the the date on your car that would indicate that it is a original L76 SPH car
Here is a couple of drawings of the L76 engine from the 1964 assembly manual showing the pulley and fuel line
If the engine/date of the engine and the L76 parts and dates matches within a certain time before the the date on your car that would indicate that it is a original L76 SPH car
Here is a couple of drawings of the L76 engine from the 1964 assembly manual showing the pulley and fuel line