Stuck FI distributor
07-22-2014, 02:49 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Stuck FI distributor
I'm re-setting the timing on a 63 SWC fuelie, and I'm pretty sure the distributor is one tooth in advance. The problem is that I can't get the distributor up out of the engine so as to move things over one tooth. The FI distributor set up includes a pair of big aluminum spacers with gaskets in between and indexing pins to keep the gaskets aligned. Imagine trying to slip the distributor and this assembly intact into the block!. I was delighted when I got it all in and in the the right place, but when I started the engine it sounded like I was one tooth in advance based on pushing and pulling gently on the vacuum can. Now, I can't get the distributor up out of the block using "appropriate" force. I have disconnected the oil lines for the distributor, so that's not the problem. Has anyone else had this problem, and if so what's the solution?
07-22-2014, 03:43 PM
#3
Race Director
I'm re-setting the timing on a 63 SWC fuelie, and I'm pretty sure the distributor is one tooth in advance. The problem is that I can't get the distributor up out of the engine so as to move things over one tooth. The FI distributor set up includes a pair of big aluminum spacers with gaskets in between and indexing pins to keep the gaskets aligned. Imagine trying to slip the distributor and this assembly intact into the block!. I was delighted when I got it all in and in the the right place, but when I started the engine it sounded like I was one tooth in advance based on pushing and pulling gently on the vacuum can. Now, I can't get the distributor up out of the block using "appropriate" force. I have disconnected the oil lines for the distributor, so that's not the problem. Has anyone else had this problem, and if so what's the solution?
Right?
07-22-2014, 03:47 PM
#4
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I thought there was only one aluminum spacer and two gaskets.
You say it sounded like it was advanced, did you use a timing light to verify?
After taking off the distributor hold down the distributor should lift up enough to move the rotor one tooth.
I an not imagine what is preventing the distributor from being raised.
Joe
You say it sounded like it was advanced, did you use a timing light to verify?
After taking off the distributor hold down the distributor should lift up enough to move the rotor one tooth.
I an not imagine what is preventing the distributor from being raised.
Joe
07-22-2014, 05:34 PM
#5
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I have seen them from time/time where they needed a little encouragement to pop out of the hole. Maybe like slight misalignment between the intake manifold and the block? Or even sludge back in the old days.
07-22-2014, 08:35 PM
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
Stuck Distributor
I can see the single spacer in the last post picture, just next to the FI drive cable. I have the distributor out, now, with a little jiggling. I have just one spacer on the shaft but two gaskets. Now to see if I can get the distributor back into the engine with the right spacing....
07-22-2014, 09:05 PM
#8
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St. Jude Donor '07
I can see the single spacer in the last post picture, just next to the FI drive cable. I have the distributor out, now, with a little jiggling. I have just one spacer on the shaft but two gaskets. Now to see if I can get the distributor back into the engine with the right spacing....
remember, the distributor base has a notch that the spacer roll pin fits into (the other end of the pin is in a hole in the intake manifold), the base of the distributor does not turn, only the top half...
Bill
07-24-2014, 05:32 PM
#9
Instructor
Thread Starter
Stuck Distributor, now un-stuck
it might take a bit of 'finessing' as the distributor has to drop down and pick up the oil pump shaft. patience and persistence is your friend...
remember, the distributor base has a notch that the spacer roll pin fits into (the other end of the pin is in a hole in the intake manifold), the base of the distributor does not turn, only the top half...
Bill
remember, the distributor base has a notch that the spacer roll pin fits into (the other end of the pin is in a hole in the intake manifold), the base of the distributor does not turn, only the top half...
Bill
I am down to one gasket and one spacer, and the distributor seems to be seated in the slot in the manifold near the hold-down foot. The electrode on the rotor points at the bottom rear passenger side rocker cover bolt. Balancer mark is at TDC. Vacuum can points midway between the coil and the back corner of the FI box, so I should be ready to start? I don't have too many shots at this since the cardboard block-to- spacer gaskets appear to be hard to get from NAPA. The blue synthetic ones are abundant.
07-24-2014, 06:03 PM
#10
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St. Jude Donor '07
Thanks, Bill,
I am down to one gasket and one spacer, and the distributor seems to be seated in the slot in the manifold near the hold-down foot. The electrode on the rotor points at the bottom rear passenger side rocker cover bolt. Balancer mark is at TDC. Vacuum can points midway between the coil and the back corner of the FI box, so I should be ready to start? I don't have too many shots at this since the cardboard block-to- spacer gaskets appear to be hard to get from NAPA. The blue synthetic ones are abundant.
I am down to one gasket and one spacer, and the distributor seems to be seated in the slot in the manifold near the hold-down foot. The electrode on the rotor points at the bottom rear passenger side rocker cover bolt. Balancer mark is at TDC. Vacuum can points midway between the coil and the back corner of the FI box, so I should be ready to start? I don't have too many shots at this since the cardboard block-to- spacer gaskets appear to be hard to get from NAPA. The blue synthetic ones are abundant.
if you have to, you can use some ultra black RTV or something similar in lieu of a gasket as the spacer and its gaskets do not move after the dist is clamped down.
good luck
Bill
by the way, the distributor gaskets are just good old regular distributor gaskets, just cut a slight notch to clear the locating pin in top/bottom of the spacer...
07-24-2014, 07:16 PM
#11
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Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, two things that need to be clarified here.
FIRST, NOT ALL FI units required a spacer for the distributor. The 57-58 base plates had a raised hole for the distributor (just like all regular intake manifolds). Thus, NO SPACER was used between the distributor and base plate on 57-58 FI units. With the 59-later FI units, the hole in the base plate was made much lower (requiring the spacer/2 gaskets) to make it easier to remove the dist.
Next, FI distributor gaskets with the notch ARE NOT, repeat, ARE NOT difficult to find! You make them from a REGULAR gasket sumply by using a hand held single hole punch to punch the notch. Use whatever type of gasket material you prefer, paper, cork, fiber, etc.
TOOOOOOOOOOOO EASY!
FIRST, NOT ALL FI units required a spacer for the distributor. The 57-58 base plates had a raised hole for the distributor (just like all regular intake manifolds). Thus, NO SPACER was used between the distributor and base plate on 57-58 FI units. With the 59-later FI units, the hole in the base plate was made much lower (requiring the spacer/2 gaskets) to make it easier to remove the dist.
Next, FI distributor gaskets with the notch ARE NOT, repeat, ARE NOT difficult to find! You make them from a REGULAR gasket sumply by using a hand held single hole punch to punch the notch. Use whatever type of gasket material you prefer, paper, cork, fiber, etc.
TOOOOOOOOOOOO EASY!
Last edited by DZAUTO; 07-24-2014 at 07:19 PM.
07-24-2014, 08:43 PM
#13
Instructor
Thread Starter
Stuck Distributor, now un-stuck
Mmmmmmmmmmmmmmm, two things that need to be clarified here.
FIRST, NOT ALL FI units required a spacer for the distributor. The 57-58 base plates had a raised hole for the distributor (just like all regular intake manifolds). Thus, NO SPACER was used between the distributor and base plate on 57-58 FI units. With the 59-later FI units, the hole in the base plate was made much lower (requiring the spacer/2 gaskets) to make it easier to remove the dist.
Next, FI distributor gaskets with the notch ARE NOT, repeat, ARE NOT difficult to find! You make them from a REGULAR gasket sumply by using a hand held single hole punch to punch the notch. Use whatever type of gasket material you prefer, paper, cork, fiber, etc.
TOOOOOOOOOOOO EASY!
I have used the hole punch trick, and it's effective. NAPA sells the blue Fel-Pro gaskets, but the local store can't get the cardboard ones. I had the blue gaskets in my car for about 6 months, mostly not running, and when i went back to re-index my timing the blue gaskets had turned into a gooey mess. Maybe due to an oil leak, as I have a bit of drippage?
FIRST, NOT ALL FI units required a spacer for the distributor. The 57-58 base plates had a raised hole for the distributor (just like all regular intake manifolds). Thus, NO SPACER was used between the distributor and base plate on 57-58 FI units. With the 59-later FI units, the hole in the base plate was made much lower (requiring the spacer/2 gaskets) to make it easier to remove the dist.
Next, FI distributor gaskets with the notch ARE NOT, repeat, ARE NOT difficult to find! You make them from a REGULAR gasket sumply by using a hand held single hole punch to punch the notch. Use whatever type of gasket material you prefer, paper, cork, fiber, etc.
TOOOOOOOOOOOO EASY!
I have used the hole punch trick, and it's effective. NAPA sells the blue Fel-Pro gaskets, but the local store can't get the cardboard ones. I had the blue gaskets in my car for about 6 months, mostly not running, and when i went back to re-index my timing the blue gaskets had turned into a gooey mess. Maybe due to an oil leak, as I have a bit of drippage?