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Hello Forum: I have a '65 Coupe (327/365 L76). I bought it in May and it was in pretty good condition. A few things were screwy, so I brought it out to Corvette Specialists in San Dimas, CA, to get it right. They did a fantastic job and the car runs magnificently. My only complaint it that the cockpit reeks of fumes. I, personally, like that smell, but my neighbors (and my wife) -- not so much. Below you will see (if I can load them) a few pictures. Here are my questions: that black wheel on the side of the carb has the word "lean" on it, with an arrow. Is that what Holley carbs had originally? Do I just need to turn it to make the mix less rich? I would emphasize, the car runs GREAT right now. And, in the other photo -- the one of my finger -- this car has new, correct side pipes from Allen's and has just a few hundred miles on it since then. Doesn't that carbon on my finger mean it is running too rich?
One last thing -- if you you want to help, thank you. I've had much help from people on this Forum, and I'm grateful for it. 62Jeff leads that list for me. But if you just want to be a dick and make jokes about my lack of Corvette sophistication, please find another thread.
My only complaint it that the cockpit reeks of fumes. I, personally, like that smell, but my neighbors (and my wife) -- not so much. Below you will see (if I can load them) a few pictures. Here are my questions: that black wheel on the side of the carb has the word "lean" on it, with an arrow. Is that what Holley carbs had originally? Do I just need to turn it to make the mix less rich? I would emphasize, the car runs GREAT right now. And, in the other photo -- the one of my finger -- this car has new, correct side pipes from Allen's and has just a few hundred miles on it since then. Doesn't that carbon on my finger mean it is running too rich?
The black thing on the side of the carb is only to adjust the choke, it has no effect on the carb, once its warmed up, if set right.
An L76 will idle a little rich, due to the cam and will stink up your garage with exhaust fumes pretty quick (especially with side pipes) if you let it idle in there too long.
The black deposits at the end of your pipes is pretty normal.
So when you say "reeks of fumes" do you mean fuel or exhaust ?
Was the motor warmed up (at operating temp) when you shot that photo? If so, it looks as though the choke isn't opening completely which would cause a rich condition and fumes in which case you would need to adjust that black wheel. It's not uncommon to have to tweak a few things to suit a particular motor after a carb rebuild.
My garage and interior has a gas smell due to my 65 L79 Holley -it's a great aroma that some don't get.
In addition, the exhaust is a little sooty - like yours - but I have pulled the plugs and they are not sooty and it runs well so I am leaving it alone.
Small adjustments to the carb can go south quickly so keep good documentation if you adjust in case you need to put it back.
From your pictures it looks like the primary metering block has been replaced or off the carburetor.
The fuel today with ethonal will evaporate much faster than the old leaded gasoline when your car was built. Keep in mind the cars of this era have carburetors vented to atmosphere so this evaporation will smell the garage for days after engine shut down.
The best way to help with this is to keep your engine in good tune and you might try to wire the heat riser valve open. If the spark plugs have a good color to them, I would leave the carburetor alone.
So when you say "reeks of fumes" do you mean fuel or exhaust ?
You need to determine which it is. Some exhaust odor is going to happen no matter what in these cars. In the garage it should dissipate within 12 hours or so. If the odor lingers and is expecially pungent, go get your lawn mower gas can and take a sniff of the spout on it. If the smell is the same then it could be a small gas leak and they seem to linger for a longer period of time.
It's surprising how a couple of drips of raw fuel on th bottom of a fuel pump or fuel block line can stink up a garage really good for days. So after a drive in it, inspect the entire fuel system from tank to carb for signs of any fuel drips. Don't forget the top of the gas tank where the collar screws down to it. If the smell is particularly bad after filling the tank it could be a leaky gasket there.
As mentioned above, the primary metering block is the newer configuration with a push-on vacuum line fitting.
But yours is plugged. So where are you getting vacuum for the distributor? Hopefully not from the PCV vacuum fitting on the driver's side of the carb, which has a metering orifice. The PCV hose from the oil fill tube is what belongs on that 90* fitting.
The black thing on the side of the carb is only to adjust the choke, it has no effect on the carb, once its warmed up, if set right.
An L76 will idle a little rich, due to the cam and will stink up your garage with exhaust fumes pretty quick (especially with side pipes) if you let it idle in there too long.
The black deposits at the end of your pipes is pretty normal.
So when you say "reeks of fumes" do you mean fuel or exhaust ?
Thanks for the info. The smell is of exhaust. If I put the A/C on and close the windows, the smell goes away, so I'm assuming it's coming from the side pipes.
Was the motor warmed up (at operating temp) when you shot that photo? If so, it looks as though the choke isn't opening completely which would cause a rich condition and fumes in which case you would need to adjust that black wheel. It's not uncommon to have to tweak a few things to suit a particular motor after a carb rebuild.
Thanks. I should have noted in my original post that the car was not running when I took the photo. I'll check the position of the choke when it is running and report back later.
My garage and interior has a gas smell due to my 65 L79 Holley -it's a great aroma that some don't get.
In addition, the exhaust is a little sooty - like yours - but I have pulled the plugs and they are not sooty and it runs well so I am leaving it alone.
Small adjustments to the carb can go south quickly so keep good documentation if you adjust in case you need to put it back.
Phil
Yes, I'm disinclined to futz around with the carb because the car runs great right now. I don't mind the smell, but not everybody shares my feelings about it. Thanks.
From your pictures it looks like the primary metering block has been replaced or off the carburetor.
The fuel today with ethonal will evaporate much faster than the old leaded gasoline when your car was built. Keep in mind the cars of this era have carburetors vented to atmosphere so this evaporation will smell the garage for days after engine shut down.
The best way to help with this is to keep your engine in good tune and you might try to wire the heat riser valve open. If the spark plugs have a good color to them, I would leave the carburetor alone.
You need to determine which it is. Some exhaust odor is going to happen no matter what in these cars. In the garage it should dissipate within 12 hours or so. If the odor lingers and is expecially pungent, go get your lawn mower gas can and take a sniff of the spout on it. If the smell is the same then it could be a small gas leak and they seem to linger for a longer period of time.
It's surprising how a couple of drips of raw fuel on th bottom of a fuel pump or fuel block line can stink up a garage really good for days. So after a drive in it, inspect the entire fuel system from tank to carb for signs of any fuel drips. Don't forget the top of the gas tank where the collar screws down to it. If the smell is particularly bad after filling the tank it could be a leaky gasket there.
Pretty sure the smell is exhaust, but I will check the fuel system today. Thanks.
As mentioned above, the primary metering block is the newer configuration with a push-on vacuum line fitting.
But yours is plugged. So where are you getting vacuum for the distributor? Hopefully not from the PCV vacuum fitting on the driver's side of the carb, which has a metering orifice. The PCV hose from the oil fill tube is what belongs on that 90* fitting.
Mike: I'm a little out of my pay scale on all this, but here is a shot of the other side of the carb. Does this answer your question?
Mike: I'm a little out of my pay scale on all this, but here is a shot of the other side of the carb. Does this answer your question?
Cool, an A/C car!
That hose going aft should instead go forward to the oil fill tube, which should have a fitting for it. Still can't figure out where your distributor VA can is hooked up to. Perhaps the manifold vacuum port behind the carburetor. A not-so-close photo would help.
The Assy Instruction Manual shows you the hose routing in UPC L76, and C60 if your A/C is factory. Looks like it is, since I see the top of the STV. L76 with C60 is a rare beast if original.
Your carburetor is a service replacement for your original 2818 unit, and has a nipple (which is currently plugged) where the older type compression fitting was. This is for the vacuum advance hose to the distributor. In the photo, pay particular attention to the chrome tube into the primary metering block, which is coupled to a hose to the vac advance diaphragm on the distributor.
Do you have anything similar to this? If not, you should run a hose from the plugged nipple to the distributor as in the photo.
If you don't have the necessary 16 degrees vacuum advance at idle, the engine will run richer than it normally would.
You should smell some fumes, but if everything is adjusted properly, they shouldn't be overpowering.
Mike: I just took the car for a long cruise and I will post some other pictures after it cools off a bit. In the meantime, the car has a MSD ignition system. I'm assuming that is why there isn't a hose going to the distributor. Correct? When I post some wider pictures you'll be able to see. Thanks.
Your carburetor is a service replacement for your original 2818 unit, and has a nipple (which is currently plugged) where the older type compression fitting was. This is for the vacuum advance hose to the distributor. In the photo, pay particular attention to the chrome tube into the primary metering block, which is coupled to a hose to the vac advance diaphragm on the distributor.
Do you have anything similar to this? If not, you should run a hose from the plugged nipple to the distributor as in the photo.
If you don't have the necessary 16 degrees vacuum advance at idle, the engine will run richer than it normally would.
You should smell some fumes, but if everything is adjusted properly, they shouldn't be overpowering.
Thanks for the photo. As I just mentioned to Mike, the car has a MSD ignition system which might account for the lack of VA to the distributor. I'll post some other pictures in a little bit. Thanks.
Hello Guys:
Here are some wider-angle pictures of the engine. As stated earlier, it has an MSD ignition system which I think you can see under the shielding. The knowledgeable guys I know around here, including Chris Wickersham, believe that the car may have been originally factory A/C, but the compressor is certainly not original. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Kerouac,
While there may be a few tweaks that still need to be made the fumes/exhaust smell is, to a degree, just the nature of the beast. People these days aren't used to the smell of ANY exhaust fumes. You say the car is running "magnificently". My philosophy has always been "if it ain't broke don't fix it"! I say screw the neighbors, and just close the windows and run the a/c when the wife is riding along.
As far as the pics, the only thing I'd be concerned with is the rubber fuel line. I'd go hard line or at the very least put some shielding over it.
Gary
Last edited by Gary's '66; 08-23-2014 at 01:21 PM.
Kerouac,
While there may be a few tweaks that still need to be made the fumes/exhaust smell is, to a degree, just the nature of the beast. People these days aren't used to the smell of ANY exhaust fumes. You say the car is running "magnificently". My philosophy has always been "if it ain't broke don't fix it"! I say screw the neighbors, and just close the windows and run the a/c when the wife is riding along.
Gary
I'm inclined to agree, Gary. I, personally, LOVE the smell. It's better than Hai Karate!
08-23-2014, 02:14 AM
1965 Holley Carb… Help!
You need to determine which it is. Some exhaust odor is going to happen no matter what in these cars. In the garage it should dissipate within 12 hours or so. If the odor lingers and is expecially pungent, go get your lawn mower gas can and take a sniff of the spout on it. If the smell is the same then it could be a small gas leak and they seem to linger for a longer period of time. 
and just close the windows and run the a/c when the wife is riding along.