Weird problem on '63
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Weird problem on '63
See post 14 for update on this problem.
A couple of weeks ago up in Carlisle I had to use the windshield wipers on my '63. The drivers side wiper kept hitting the A-pillar trim, since it was raining cats and dogs I soldiered on until I got to the hotel. This was the first time I'd used the wipers in the 18 months I've owned the car so the problem has been there all along I just didn't know about it.
I tried moving the wiper down closer to the base of the windshield but even with the wiper touching the lower trim I couldn't get it to stop hitting the side trim. I'm lucky enough to have a '66 so I've pulled the drivers side wiper arm off of it and installed it on the '63. No difference This is very confusing; I have the wipers installed correctly (drivers side below the passenger side), all the pivots and joints on the wipers system seem to be installed correctly and not worn out.
Anyone got any ideas?
A couple of weeks ago up in Carlisle I had to use the windshield wipers on my '63. The drivers side wiper kept hitting the A-pillar trim, since it was raining cats and dogs I soldiered on until I got to the hotel. This was the first time I'd used the wipers in the 18 months I've owned the car so the problem has been there all along I just didn't know about it.
I tried moving the wiper down closer to the base of the windshield but even with the wiper touching the lower trim I couldn't get it to stop hitting the side trim. I'm lucky enough to have a '66 so I've pulled the drivers side wiper arm off of it and installed it on the '63. No difference This is very confusing; I have the wipers installed correctly (drivers side below the passenger side), all the pivots and joints on the wipers system seem to be installed correctly and not worn out.
Anyone got any ideas?
Last edited by VetteJohn; 08-14-2016 at 09:34 AM. Reason: Update
#2
A couple of weeks ago up in Carlisle I had to use the windshield wipers on my '63. The drivers side wiper kept hitting the A-pillar trim, since it was raining cats and dogs I soldiered on until I got to the hotel. This was the first time I'd used the wipers in the 18 months I've owned the car so the problem has been there all along I just didn't know about it.
I tried moving the wiper down closer to the base of the windshield but even with the wiper touching the lower trim I couldn't get it to stop hitting the side trim. I'm lucky enough to have a '66 so I've pulled the drivers side wiper arm off of it and installed it on the '63. No difference This is very confusing; I have the wipers installed correctly (drivers side below the passenger side), all the pivots and joints on the wipers system seem to be installed correctly and not worn out.
Anyone got any ideas?
I tried moving the wiper down closer to the base of the windshield but even with the wiper touching the lower trim I couldn't get it to stop hitting the side trim. I'm lucky enough to have a '66 so I've pulled the drivers side wiper arm off of it and installed it on the '63. No difference This is very confusing; I have the wipers installed correctly (drivers side below the passenger side), all the pivots and joints on the wipers system seem to be installed correctly and not worn out.
Anyone got any ideas?
#3
Team Owner
Seems like if he swapped wiper arms with a known good setup (his '66) and the problem still occurs that the wiper arm screw adjustment is off the hook as the culprit.
Still - can't hurt to try.
The '63 AIM isn't a lot of help:
Still - can't hurt to try.
The '63 AIM isn't a lot of help:
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 09-02-2014 at 11:36 AM.
#4
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Tried that!
I tried adjusting the arm position with the adjusting screw. I ended up with the blade parallel to the lower trim and touching it. Still hit the side trim.
Thanks for the AIM picture, I found that yesterday, it's as clean as mud! I can just imagine the reaction from the UAW guy when he saw that in the AIM
Thanks for the AIM picture, I found that yesterday, it's as clean as mud! I can just imagine the reaction from the UAW guy when he saw that in the AIM
#5
I tried adjusting the arm position with the adjusting screw. I ended up with the blade parallel to the lower trim and touching it. Still hit the side trim.
Thanks for the AIM picture, I found that yesterday, it's as clean as mud! I can just imagine the reaction from the UAW guy when he saw that in the AIM
Thanks for the AIM picture, I found that yesterday, it's as clean as mud! I can just imagine the reaction from the UAW guy when he saw that in the AIM
Could it be possible the wiper transmission bell cranks are upside down, were they out of the car.
If not then the motor may not be parking properly and not allowing you to install on the correct spline.
#6
Instructor
Just an idea when working on wiper arm movement to save the windshield from getting scratched by the blade and also when the windshield is dry the arm does not swing as far as on a wet windshield remove the wiper arm and wrap a piece of masking tape around the output shaft and attach a 2 inch nail to it. Adjust the nail till it points to the desired rest position and use that as the wiper arm. Use that for checking for proper rotation.
#7
Safety Car
Member Since: Nov 2004
Location: going faster miles an hour...with the radio on in browns mills new jersey
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Wasn't there a thread recently where it was determined that the OP (in that thread) had an improper (too long) arm attached to the wiper motor.
IIRC he was having the same issues.
Measure the length of the arm attached to the motor - from the attaching point to the pivot point....do the same on your '66.
IIRC he was having the same issues.
Measure the length of the arm attached to the motor - from the attaching point to the pivot point....do the same on your '66.
Last edited by nassau66427; 09-02-2014 at 05:25 PM. Reason: added last line
#8
Safety Car
My thought is that the wiper transmission is loose and the knurled end is spinning on the inner shaft.
Remove the suspect arm, and carefully with a pair of pliers wrapped with tape, try to rotate the knurled end while watching the center shaft.
It may be ready to come apart.
edit....Or it may be the other end of the shaft inside and has a loose link lever or loose shaft coupler.
Rich
Remove the suspect arm, and carefully with a pair of pliers wrapped with tape, try to rotate the knurled end while watching the center shaft.
It may be ready to come apart.
edit....Or it may be the other end of the shaft inside and has a loose link lever or loose shaft coupler.
Rich
#9
Race Director
Member Since: Feb 2007
Location: northern california
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C2 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
About 15 years ago I replaced the original wiper motor on my '63 with a replacement motor I bought from Doc Rebuild. The motor I bought was NOT advertised as being "correct" only that it would work. I went in with my eyes open.
The replacement motor, probably from a passenger car, causes the wipers to slightly over-travel onto the stainless windshield uprights.
I think it's possible VetteJohn's wiper motor could also be a replacement since his symptoms are similar.
How to spot the replacement motor? I don't remember the detail differences. I do remember that they were pretty subtle. You wouldn't automatically notice them.
Offered for what it's worth....
Jim
The replacement motor, probably from a passenger car, causes the wipers to slightly over-travel onto the stainless windshield uprights.
I think it's possible VetteJohn's wiper motor could also be a replacement since his symptoms are similar.
How to spot the replacement motor? I don't remember the detail differences. I do remember that they were pretty subtle. You wouldn't automatically notice them.
Offered for what it's worth....
Jim
#10
Instructor
Check the length of the wiper blade itself......it could be 1 or 2" longer. QUOTE=VetteJohn;1587736404]A couple of weeks ago up in Carlisle I had to use the windshield wipers on my '63. The drivers side wiper kept hitting the A-pillar trim, since it was raining cats and dogs I soldiered on until I got to the hotel. This was the first time I'd used the wipers in the 18 months I've owned the car so the problem has been there all along I just didn't know about it.
I tried moving the wiper down closer to the base of the windshield but even with the wiper touching the lower trim I couldn't get it to stop hitting the side trim. I'm lucky enough to have a '66 so I've pulled the drivers side wiper arm off of it and installed it on the '63. No difference This is very confusing; I have the wipers installed correctly (drivers side below the passenger side), all the pivots and joints on the wipers system seem to be installed correctly and not worn out.
Anyone got any ideas?[/QUOTE]
I tried moving the wiper down closer to the base of the windshield but even with the wiper touching the lower trim I couldn't get it to stop hitting the side trim. I'm lucky enough to have a '66 so I've pulled the drivers side wiper arm off of it and installed it on the '63. No difference This is very confusing; I have the wipers installed correctly (drivers side below the passenger side), all the pivots and joints on the wipers system seem to be installed correctly and not worn out.
Anyone got any ideas?[/QUOTE]
#11
Team Owner
I had to tweak my '63 coupe wiper arms a bit too. The passenger side is fine now but the driver's side still wants to whack onto the vertical molding on the upstroke by about 1". I figured I'll just live with it and don't intend to be in the rain all that much.
Rich's thought about the knurled cap on the wiper transmission shaft is a good one. I've certainly seen that issue on C1s. Worth checking cuz if that wiper arm ever comes completely loose and launches across your painted hood it won't be good.
Rich's thought about the knurled cap on the wiper transmission shaft is a good one. I've certainly seen that issue on C1s. Worth checking cuz if that wiper arm ever comes completely loose and launches across your painted hood it won't be good.
#12
I had to tweak my '63 coupe wiper arms a bit too. The passenger side is fine now but the driver's side still wants to whack onto the vertical molding on the upstroke by about 1". I figured I'll just live with it and don't intend to be in the rain all that much.
Rich's thought about the knurled cap on the wiper transmission shaft is a good one. I've certainly seen that issue on C1s. Worth checking cuz if that wiper arm ever comes completely loose and launches across your painted hood it won't be good.
Rich's thought about the knurled cap on the wiper transmission shaft is a good one. I've certainly seen that issue on C1s. Worth checking cuz if that wiper arm ever comes completely loose and launches across your painted hood it won't be good.
but leaves a film on window since you live in FL I would use it for the big downpours.
#13
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Not so weird after all.
Well from the responses I've been getting I guess this problem wasn't as weird as I thought. I'll take a look at the ideas offered up. Just so everyone knows, I've not had the wiper motor out but don't know about the previous owner(s).
I'll post if and when I figure this out.
John
I'll post if and when I figure this out.
John
#14
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Fixed!!!!!
I said I’d post once I figured this issue out, I have, so here goes.
First of all thanks to everyone for all the comments, suggestions, opinions and observations. Checked all the things suggested in my original post. The knurled **** on each transmission is secure on the shafts. I tried setting the arm at the highest point of its travel instead of at the bottom. I adjusted the arms using the adjustment screw on each arm. The motor lever is the same length as the replacements that are available. The motor appears to be parking correctly (perpendicular to the base of the windshield). Someone suggested that the “bellcranks” could be upside down, I guess he was referring to the transmission arms but the wipers would be reversed (“park” would be in the up position) if these were to be reversed.
I decided in order to resolve this problem I needed to reduce the amount of rotation that each of the transmissions move. I decided to try shortening the distance between the linkage arm pivot and the mount location of the motor lever. This was accompliced by bending the motor lever (on the repo I purchased), which has an S shape. This required hammers, a vice, adjustable wrenches, half the other tools in my toolbox as well as some grunts, groans and a couple of swear words.
This was not easy, the metal lever is thick and hard to bend. It required some trail and error, but after three attempts I got it. Finally I was able to reduce the distance between the two points by about .1”, which I didn’t think would do the job but the problem is fixed.
The sweep is now very close to the assembly manual drawing. There is now about 1.3 inches between the trim and the blade on both sides. This means I reduced the sweep by over 2” with the .1” change at the motor lever.
I reccomemd this fixe to anyone who has this problem. Why tear up your stainless and take a chance of the wiper arm being pulled off and damaging the car. The part was less than $15 and it only requires removing the glove box for access. If you have any questions PM me and I’ll try to help.
First of all thanks to everyone for all the comments, suggestions, opinions and observations. Checked all the things suggested in my original post. The knurled **** on each transmission is secure on the shafts. I tried setting the arm at the highest point of its travel instead of at the bottom. I adjusted the arms using the adjustment screw on each arm. The motor lever is the same length as the replacements that are available. The motor appears to be parking correctly (perpendicular to the base of the windshield). Someone suggested that the “bellcranks” could be upside down, I guess he was referring to the transmission arms but the wipers would be reversed (“park” would be in the up position) if these were to be reversed.
I decided in order to resolve this problem I needed to reduce the amount of rotation that each of the transmissions move. I decided to try shortening the distance between the linkage arm pivot and the mount location of the motor lever. This was accompliced by bending the motor lever (on the repo I purchased), which has an S shape. This required hammers, a vice, adjustable wrenches, half the other tools in my toolbox as well as some grunts, groans and a couple of swear words.
This was not easy, the metal lever is thick and hard to bend. It required some trail and error, but after three attempts I got it. Finally I was able to reduce the distance between the two points by about .1”, which I didn’t think would do the job but the problem is fixed.
The sweep is now very close to the assembly manual drawing. There is now about 1.3 inches between the trim and the blade on both sides. This means I reduced the sweep by over 2” with the .1” change at the motor lever.
I reccomemd this fixe to anyone who has this problem. Why tear up your stainless and take a chance of the wiper arm being pulled off and damaging the car. The part was less than $15 and it only requires removing the glove box for access. If you have any questions PM me and I’ll try to help.
#15
Team Owner
Clever fix but its just weird that you had to do that....when I got my '63 my wipers were banging on the driver's side vertical stainless piece. But I found the wiper arm parts were wrong and correctly sized repros fixed me up...
#17
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Proper size arm?
Frankie,
I didn't know you had solved your problem. You said you got proper size arms, from what vendor?
John
I didn't know you had solved your problem. You said you got proper size arms, from what vendor?
John
#18
Just saying why didn't you move then counter clock wise on stud
#19
Team Owner
I got new repro arms from an eBay vendor for $129....I don't see any more on eBay right now for that price.
They didn't come with the 'dotted' rubber blade refills so I got them separately from Zip for like $45.
They did OK for judging but, of course, not as well as originals...some minor originality deducts.
These are on there now but I'd have to break out my JG to see how they stand up point wise:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-63-...pXmT2S&vxp=mtr
Some bad repros have problems with the small prongs not holding the rubber blade in properly and that could result in a scratched windshield. My repros do not have that problem.
They didn't come with the 'dotted' rubber blade refills so I got them separately from Zip for like $45.
They did OK for judging but, of course, not as well as originals...some minor originality deducts.
These are on there now but I'd have to break out my JG to see how they stand up point wise:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Original-63-...pXmT2S&vxp=mtr
Some bad repros have problems with the small prongs not holding the rubber blade in properly and that could result in a scratched windshield. My repros do not have that problem.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 08-14-2016 at 03:18 PM.
#20
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
It's about the rotation.
rtruman,
rotating the arm on the stud changes the start and stop points of the blade. My problem was I had too much sweep (rotation). If I moved the arm so the blade did not hit the stainless trim on the side it would be driven down at the windshield base all the way to the cowl,
John
rotating the arm on the stud changes the start and stop points of the blade. My problem was I had too much sweep (rotation). If I moved the arm so the blade did not hit the stainless trim on the side it would be driven down at the windshield base all the way to the cowl,
John
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rtruman (08-14-2016)