Flanges For Transmission Crossmember Conversion
#2
Racer
link is in other thread
Joe, a link to that supplier is in your other thread, referenced in one of my posts. Sorry I haven't posted photos yet, life keeps me busy.
I gotta go eat dinner but I'll look for the info, Gary
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ossmember.html
look at post #27 for Ray Dowling.
Here it is...
Ray Dowling. He is owner of
Montgomery Machine Tech LLC
(636) 488-5656
mmt.info.com
311 Lions Estates Dr, Jonesburg, MO 63351
Here are some pics...
Flange welded on end of fixed x-member. Had to rework top contour of flange to clear floor. Now has about 1/8" clearance
and only 3 bolts, had 4. Wasn't happy, but I was committed.
Flange with shield in place
X-member. Weld around inside gives 360 deg of attatchment. Not possible with outside weld.
Shot to see clearance, hard to see.
I gotta go eat dinner but I'll look for the info, Gary
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ossmember.html
look at post #27 for Ray Dowling.
Here it is...
Ray Dowling. He is owner of
Montgomery Machine Tech LLC
(636) 488-5656
mmt.info.com
311 Lions Estates Dr, Jonesburg, MO 63351
Here are some pics...
Flange welded on end of fixed x-member. Had to rework top contour of flange to clear floor. Now has about 1/8" clearance
and only 3 bolts, had 4. Wasn't happy, but I was committed.
Flange with shield in place
X-member. Weld around inside gives 360 deg of attatchment. Not possible with outside weld.
Shot to see clearance, hard to see.
Last edited by troutster71; 10-07-2014 at 12:31 AM. Reason: more info
#4
Melting Slicks
#6
Advanced
Its a long way from perfect, but its the best I could come up with - with the body still on the frame.
Looking at the plates or channel solutions for making the crossmember removable, I think the plate design of the previous poster looks neater and appears to be more secure? I contemplated plates myself, but dont have a lift or a welding machine to make that a feasible home fix.
Looking at the plates or channel solutions for making the crossmember removable, I think the plate design of the previous poster looks neater and appears to be more secure? I contemplated plates myself, but dont have a lift or a welding machine to make that a feasible home fix.
#7
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Thank you Troutster, 66, Jofa;
Especially good pictures. And thanks for the link Troutster.
I have to crawl underneath and see what the clearance is before I buy or make my own flanges.
Especially good pictures. And thanks for the link Troutster.
I have to crawl underneath and see what the clearance is before I buy or make my own flanges.
#8
Instructor
It has plenty of clearance. All of the fabrication was done with the Muncie transmission still in the car. The pictures where taken after I removed the Muncie transmission and before I installed the SS700.
#9
Melting Slicks
#11
Melting Slicks
#14
Burning Brakes
A saws-all easily cuts the cross member.
I have welded in the flanges for my buddies; however, several of our gang have gone to the channel iron with bolts. I think that is easier.
One friend cut his at V angles and has an internal square tubing with bolt which a really strong, clean look.
Joe
I have welded in the flanges for my buddies; however, several of our gang have gone to the channel iron with bolts. I think that is easier.
One friend cut his at V angles and has an internal square tubing with bolt which a really strong, clean look.
Joe
#16
Race Director
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I cut mine with a sawz-all.
The first version I had was just like everyone else..Imade flanges for stock crossmember. Worked great except I had 3" pipes at the time and there were some awful sharp bends off the big block headers to get through it.
Later I had a local roundy rounder shop bend a piece of tubing and I added flanges to it and built a trans mount as well as transferred the parking brake roller to it. Now the pipes can come straight off the headers with no twists as they pass under the crossmember.
JIM
The first version I had was just like everyone else..Imade flanges for stock crossmember. Worked great except I had 3" pipes at the time and there were some awful sharp bends off the big block headers to get through it.
Later I had a local roundy rounder shop bend a piece of tubing and I added flanges to it and built a trans mount as well as transferred the parking brake roller to it. Now the pipes can come straight off the headers with no twists as they pass under the crossmember.
JIM
#18
Safety Car
Thread Starter
Thanks.
Any tips you can give about the cutting? Make entire cut with saw parallel to floorboards, or 2 separate cuts? Are you able to cut entirely through or do you have to twist/break off the last bit of steel?
Any tips you can give about the cutting? Make entire cut with saw parallel to floorboards, or 2 separate cuts? Are you able to cut entirely through or do you have to twist/break off the last bit of steel?
#19
Drifting
But, then what do I know...