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Flanges For Transmission Crossmember Conversion

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Old 10-06-2014, 08:51 PM
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65tripleblack
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Default Flanges For Transmission Crossmember Conversion

Who makes the flanges for converting a C2 crossmember to removable.
Thanks in advance.
Old 10-06-2014, 08:57 PM
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troutster71
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Default link is in other thread

Joe, a link to that supplier is in your other thread, referenced in one of my posts. Sorry I haven't posted photos yet, life keeps me busy.

I gotta go eat dinner but I'll look for the info, Gary

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ossmember.html
look at post #27 for Ray Dowling.

Here it is...

Ray Dowling. He is owner of
Montgomery Machine Tech LLC
(636) 488-5656
mmt.info.com
311 Lions Estates Dr, Jonesburg, MO 63351

Here are some pics...

Flange welded on end of fixed x-member. Had to rework top contour of flange to clear floor. Now has about 1/8" clearance
and only 3 bolts, had 4. Wasn't happy, but I was committed.




Flange with shield in place


X-member. Weld around inside gives 360 deg of attatchment. Not possible with outside weld.


Shot to see clearance, hard to see.

Last edited by troutster71; 10-07-2014 at 12:31 AM. Reason: more info
Old 10-07-2014, 08:11 AM
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66 Vette
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Made my own.
Attached Images    

Last edited by 66 Vette; 10-07-2014 at 08:24 AM.
Old 10-07-2014, 08:25 AM
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alexandervdr
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Originally Posted by 66 Vette
Made my own.
I believe I prefer your version, should have more clearance between bottom of body and top of crossmember flange. Does it?
Old 10-07-2014, 10:20 AM
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Jofa1963
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Here are some pics of what some previous owner (BUBBA) did to my crossmember many years ago and my more recent efforts








Old 10-07-2014, 10:26 AM
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Jofa1963
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Its a long way from perfect, but its the best I could come up with - with the body still on the frame.

Looking at the plates or channel solutions for making the crossmember removable, I think the plate design of the previous poster looks neater and appears to be more secure? I contemplated plates myself, but dont have a lift or a welding machine to make that a feasible home fix.








Old 10-07-2014, 11:46 AM
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65tripleblack
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Thank you Troutster, 66, Jofa;

Especially good pictures. And thanks for the link Troutster.

I have to crawl underneath and see what the clearance is before I buy or make my own flanges.
Old 10-07-2014, 12:56 PM
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66 Vette
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Originally Posted by alexandervdr
I believe I prefer your version, should have more clearance between bottom of body and top of crossmember flange. Does it?
It has plenty of clearance. All of the fabrication was done with the Muncie transmission still in the car. The pictures where taken after I removed the Muncie transmission and before I installed the SS700.
Old 10-07-2014, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 66 Vette
It has plenty of clearance. All of the fabrication was done with the Muncie transmission still in the car. The pictures where taken after I removed the Muncie transmission and before I installed the SS700.
How thick are the flanges?
Old 10-07-2014, 04:48 PM
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66 Vette
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Originally Posted by alexandervdr
How thick are the flanges?
All are 1/4" thick.
Old 10-07-2014, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 66 Vette
All are 1/4" thick.
Thanks!
Old 10-20-2014, 11:14 AM
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65tripleblack
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Originally Posted by 66 Vette
Made my own.
66 Vette,

How did you cut the crossmember?
Old 10-20-2014, 09:41 PM
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woodsdesign
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Why wouldn't you just install a C-3 automatic cross member? Just curious.
Old 10-20-2014, 10:01 PM
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A saws-all easily cuts the cross member.

I have welded in the flanges for my buddies; however, several of our gang have gone to the channel iron with bolts. I think that is easier.

One friend cut his at V angles and has an internal square tubing with bolt which a really strong, clean look.

Joe
Old 10-20-2014, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 65tripleblack
66 Vette,

How did you cut the crossmember?
I'm cutting mine with a sawz-all on Friday.

65-StingRay
Old 10-20-2014, 11:40 PM
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427Hotrod
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I cut mine with a sawz-all.

The first version I had was just like everyone else..Imade flanges for stock crossmember. Worked great except I had 3" pipes at the time and there were some awful sharp bends off the big block headers to get through it.

Later I had a local roundy rounder shop bend a piece of tubing and I added flanges to it and built a trans mount as well as transferred the parking brake roller to it. Now the pipes can come straight off the headers with no twists as they pass under the crossmember.

JIM





Old 10-21-2014, 06:51 AM
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66 Vette
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Originally Posted by 65tripleblack
66 Vette,

How did you cut the crossmember?
They were cut with a saws-all.
Old 10-21-2014, 03:49 PM
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65tripleblack
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Thanks.
Any tips you can give about the cutting? Make entire cut with saw parallel to floorboards, or 2 separate cuts? Are you able to cut entirely through or do you have to twist/break off the last bit of steel?
Old 10-21-2014, 05:43 PM
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MattB
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Originally Posted by 65tripleblack
Thanks.
Any tips you can give about the cutting? Make entire cut with saw parallel to floorboards, or 2 separate cuts? Are you able to cut entirely through or do you have to twist/break off the last bit of steel?
That is one thing that concerns me, I can't cut anything straight. Trying to think of a way that I could get a square cut. That matters most if you are going with the flanges on the ends. If you go with the overlaping channel approach, then it is much less important I think.

But, then what do I know...

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