Wayne88

I removed my bumper, brackets and grill, to paint the grill, and reinstalled. Everything went well.

One question: what’s the normal way these tubular spacers install? They go in the end of the bumper extensions, so the tightened bolts don’t distort the brackets. They install loose and there’s nothing to keep them in place.

So I placed them in the bumper extensions, then clamped them until they stuck in place. Then I pushed the bumper into place and quickly shoved screwdrivers thru the holes, until I could work the bolts through.

There must be a better method, just curious what it is.

Bluestripe67

Pat yourself on the back, you did just what most of us probably did. It's a juggling act with many parts on these cars and bumpers are no exception. Don't forget to tighten a little, then adjust a bit more so they level up across the front, then lockem' down. Dennis

Wayne88

Thank you Dennis.

I did pat myself on the back for installing the whole bumper by myself. So, I sat in front of the car, crossed legged, with the whole bumper resting on my knees. I edged up inch by inch, then lifted the bumper with my hands into extension brackets. I held it there by raising my knees to support it, still cross legged, then shoved the screwdrivers in. WHEW !

Of course everything was taped, and I didn't scratch a thing.
Prepping the grill for painting was also a hoot.

Frankie the Fink

I have a lift so I do it differently (but the process might work on jack stands or ramps too).

I find it easiest to protect everything well, Attach those lower center braces onto the bumpers while off the car....including getting the bolts and tubular spacers installed....its good if they're a bit loose, as you tighten the bolts the sides of the channel will compress against them as designed...

Then loosely bolt up the lower center braces (already attached to the bumper) to the chassis, doing the rearmost bolt first, then the front one, loosely! You can hold the padded bumper on your shoulder as you do this.

Then swing the outboard end of the bumper up and secure them to the outboard bracket through the body - that takes 10 minutes; then spend another 4 hours getting them perfectly straight and doing the final tightening of all fasteners


I also cut a little square of rubber -- like from a tool box drawer liner and cut a hole in the middle and contact cement them to the outer bumper mounting pad....this protects the paint around the outboard bolt hole when you do the final tightening. Not NCRS correct but a comfort nonetheless.

Wayne88

Thanks, that lower center bracket suggestion is a good idea. Also, I'm going to do that rubber square thing; the bare bumper up against the bare fiberglass does not seem right to me.

tbarb

One thing I would like to mention is that you can install a shim/washer on either the forward or rearward bolt between the frame and bracket on that lower bumper support. This will allow a very nice parallel look to the bumper in relation to the car style line if needed. Just snug things and step back and take a look, some look fine and some need a shim.

Frankie the Fink

That is exactly right... It can make the difference between slightly off kilter to dead nuts straight...

I have a single thick washer on my driver's side rear bolt between the under chassis bracket and the frame...

Some vendors sell "paint protectors" to go between the bumper and painted body but you can fab up some out of nearly anything....even cut up one of those thin plastic kitchen cutting boards whose color comes close to your car's color...no biggee...

That'll make them nearly invisible (or you can paint them) AND dishwasher safe!
Don't use the ones with a waffle pattern, you want completely smooth.