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Everybody here knows that I'm a smallblock guy, but I won't criticize you for doing a big block, and although I'd prefer starting with an aluminum 4 1/8" bore smallblock from Dart, World or another manufacturer, I hate to see you using such a bad weight:torque (ie: power) engine. If you feel compelled to run a porcupine head, then I'd suggest using a big block with a 4.56" bore, and de-stroke it. I hope to see a dynorun showing about 1.5 HP/cu-inch on your normally aspirated engine.
In any event, good luck and I'll be watching.
Bore size is more important than stroke, considering equal displacement because the bigger the bore, the more the valves can be unshrouded by relieving the decks.
Thanks for the info and options. I am still considering what all I might do with the engine. I may up grade to some good aluminum heads right away to help with the weight. I am also looking at "FAST" ignition systems and fuel injection. As far as the engine internals and size I felt that at least I had a real good starting point. After I open it up that might change though. It is supposedly all new on the inside but have yet to verify. One good thing is that this block has really thick walls and is the same block that was used on the early 427s so if needed, I can go bigger with the bores.
While I am waiting for the frame to get back from powder coating I thought I might work on a small paint booth. I am going to need something to paint any parts that are cleaned up and reused.
I had some extra 3/4" MDF sitting around so I used that to build a box. It is roughly 4 feet wide, 3 feet tall, and 2 feet deep. The bottom and one side are 3 feet deep. This way I have a little larger corner on one side. I will be aiming my paint in that direction most of the time.
I thought I had an old bathroom exhaust fan that I could use as an exhaust system. After I tested it though I did not think it would move enough air. I ended up buying a Hurricane 8" 500 CFM blower. I hooked it up with a speed control just in case it was too much, but actually it is about right.
Used some 8" round duct, a couple of floor register boxes, 3 elbos, a tee, and more or less a giant dryer vent with a damper on the outside and presto bango, the result is pictured below.
I mounted a piece of 1/2" conduit in the top to hang things from and I still need a couple of furnace filters mounted in the top to catch the paint over spray as it is drawn out.
Welcome to the Forum Sam, glad to see yet another Michigander here. Winters are made for time in our shops! Looks like you are starting with a pretty decent car to begin with, keep it coming. Brian.
Went and picked up the frame. The powder coating guys did an awesome job. They were able to crank up the electricity and fog the inside of it pretty well. Every hole I look in with a flash light the inner frame appears to be coated. The entire frame looks brand new except the rear cross member. There was a little pitting on the top of it but nothing serious.
I wish I had spent a little time and sanded down some of the factory weld spatter. It is not too bad, just noticeable to me. It won't be to anyone else when it is assembled. Maybe the next time.
O.K., we are up to date with my project. All the work that I have done up to now has taken place over the last three months. I actually picked the frame up about a week ago but was still in the process of updating this thread.
Of course stuff always comes apart faster than it goes together so up-dates may be a little slower now. But believe me, I really want to get this done so that I can cruise it around.
I still have research to do, decisions to make, parts to order, and a lot of work to do. It is gonig to be a lot of fun.
Crap, ran into my first snaffoo already. I ordered new hardware for assembling the new control arms on the front. The 9/16 bolts used at the rear of the lower control arms for mounting use a special serrated washer. My kit only had one of them in it instead of the two needed (one for each lower control arm). I called the vendor and they are sending a replacement. Hopefully fast because I am dead in the water until I get it. I got one control arm installed though. Wee he
I should be getting my other suspension parts from the powder coater next week. I am going to need the front spindles (and everything else) soon.
I ordered a stainless steel fuel line and rear differential cushions today. So hopefully I have those next week also.
Well, pulled the trigger on a Tremec 5 speed transmission kit today. It should be here next week. Something else to play with and dream about.
It will come with everything I need to upgrade my car and get it installed. New drive shaft, bell housing, hydraulic clutch system, mounts, shifter, hardware, etc. I had already picked up a restored clutch and brake pedal set a while back. Since my car was an automatic, I did not have a clutch pedal and knew I would need a set sooner or later.
I worked on rebuilding my front wheel hubs today. The original hubs were still riveted to the original brake discs. I drilled out the rivets and pounded them out with a punch and hammer. Then I could separate the hub.
Center punched the rivet heads
Started with a small drill and worked my way up in size. You do not need to drill all the way through. You only need to go about a 1/2" deep.
By the time I got to a 3/8" drill the head comes off. Then you can drive the rivet out the bottom. Also, if the head does not come off it will still be weak enough that you can drive the rivet out. I had a couple that way. You can see the head of the rivet laying at the right and the driven out rivet laying at the upper left.
Hub separated from the brake disc
I had driven out the seals and bearing races and washed the hubs in the parts washer. Next I wanted to sand blast them but did not want to damage the bearing bores. Tape did not want to stick so that is when I decided to put the old races and seals back in. I could then sand blast the hubs without worrying about the bearing bores. I did not care about the old races since I have new ones.
Hub sand blasted and old races driven back out
Both hubs primered
I ended up driving the old wheel studs out also. They were pretty rusty at the base near the hub and I did not want to do all this work and then bust one later. I ordered all new ones for both the front and rear.
Hi There: My bro and I are restoring a GG roadster. Have a look at our blog.
armstrongrestoration.blogspot.ca
Any comments gladly recieved. (especially errors) My e-mail- laurray@shaw.ca
Ray
Given you have access to the frame, I strongly recommend you modify your transmission crossmember so it is removable. There are many ways to do this but it will make your life significantly easier down the road.
I like the project...and will continue to follow along.
Hi There: My bro and I are restoring a GG roadster. Have a look at our blog.
armstrongrestoration.blogspot.ca
Any comments gladly recieved. (especially errors) My e-mail- laurray@shaw.ca
Ray
Thanks, I will definitely make time to look at it. That is how I learn and get ideas also. Looking at others work.
Given you have access to the frame, I strongly recommend you modify your transmission crossmember so it is removable. There are many ways to do this but it will make your life significantly easier down the road.
I like the project...and will continue to follow along.
Cheers,
Frank
Thanks, That was something that I had really considered when I was thinking about the Tremec 6 speed transmission. The cross member would have had to be modified for that. Since I decided on the 5 speed I no longer need to modify the cross member and decided to leave it as is. The 1969 I have which will be the next project I already know will need some frame work done. That project may get the removable cross member and 6 speed.
I was planning on running the fuel line along the frame but it was not delivered today like I was expecting. I did clean out the threaded holes in the frame to get ready for it. I have some nice stainless steel button head screws for the clips when I finally get it.
I also sprayed the front hubs black. They needed to dry so maybe tomorrow I can press in the new wheel studs and bearing races.
I did get a bunch of other new parts today that I had to unpack and inventory. Some of which are the new differential cushions, so I will probably get those pressed in soon.
I installed the fuel tank cross member. I had gotten it back from the powder coater last week. I used some stainless steel button head screws on this also. They will look really nice from the bottom.
Thanks, That was something that I had really considered when I was thinking about the Tremec 6 speed transmission. The cross member would have had to be modified for that. Since I decided on the 5 speed I no longer need to modify the cross member and decided to leave it as is. The 1969 I have which will be the next project I already know will need some frame work done. That project may get the removable cross member and 6 speed.
Yes, the Tremec 5speed will fit, but its a fight. I have done several and they are a pain.
I finished up my front wheel hubs today. The paint had dried real nice and I was able to press in the bearing races and the new wheel studs. I will wait to put in the rear seals until I am ready to install the hubs. That way I do not have to pack that bearing with grease until I am ready for it. I will keep the corresponding bearings with the matching races in the hubs together until ready.
I got the rear differential cross member ready for mounting.
I bought new cushions and needed to press them in. Even though the cross member had been powder coated, it looked like I would still be able to press in the cushions with the added thickness to the cushion pockets. But, I decided not to risk it and used my drum sander to remove some of the powder coating from the inside of the pockets. I removed just enough powder coating so that I was just starting to see the metal high spots through it. I then put a thin coating of anti-seize on the outside of the cushion and the inside of the cushion pockets. After that they pressed right in. The anti-seize helped the cushions to press in and will help keep them from rusting to the cross member so bad like they were before.
My brothers always ask me what I use a 20 ton press for. Well, this is a good example. It made easy work of this.
My oscillating drum sander made quick work of the powder coating on the inside of the cushion pockets.
Lined up for pressing
Almost in
In and done
After that I pounded over the tabs on the other side.
Before I had the cross member powder coated, I measured and drilled 4 holes through it for mounting the new fiberglass mono spring. The next picture you can see both cushions in and the mono spring brackets installed. It is now ready to hang on the frame.
I will wait to install it until I also have the differential ready to install. That will be my next focus.
Looking good. It would have been nice to have a press earlier in the summer when I went through the entire suspension of my '65, but it wasn't worth it to purchase one for just a few random things.
Looking good. It would have been nice to have a press earlier in the summer when I went through the entire suspension of my '65, but it wasn't worth it to purchase one for just a few random things.
I actually bought mine about ten years ago for some project. I do not remember what. I will admit, it does not get used a lot, but when you need one, it sure is handy.
FYI, I got mine at Northern Tool. When I lived in Milwaukee there was a store local so I did not have to pay shipping. It was around $200.
I actually bought mine about ten years ago for some project. I do not remember what. I will admit, it does not get used a lot, but when you need one, it sure is handy.
FYI, I got mine at Northern Tool. When I lived in Milwaukee there was a store local so I did not have to pay shipping. It was around $200.
I fortunately have a local auto shop that was willing to do all of the work for cheap. I now have a few friends who have presses. I'm more than happy to trade my home made sausage and beer for use of the few tools I don't have.
01-12-2015, 03:48 PM
