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Oil Change with Canister Filter

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Old 03-26-2015, 08:41 PM
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tom geuther
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Default Oil Change with Canister Filter

Will be doing an oil change on my 66 coupe 327/350hp. It has the canister filter, new to me. Do I just need to pick up the filter inside the canister along with an O ring? Any special tricks or tips are welcome.
Old 03-26-2015, 08:47 PM
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Nowhere Man
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The new filter will come with a new O-ring. After removal of the chainster and you cleaned it out Remove the old O-ring and carefully install the new one making sure it doesn't double over and twist. Once in place put the new filter in the canister fill with oil. Start the bolt and snug it up by hand then rotate the canister to unsure the O-ring has seated. Then tighten up the bolt
Old 03-26-2015, 08:50 PM
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Jud Chapin
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Originally Posted by tom geuther
Will be doing an oil change on my 66 coupe 327/350hp. It has the canister filter, new to me. Do I just need to pick up the filter inside the canister along with an O ring? Any special tricks or tips are welcome.
Yes, that's all you need. Pretty straight forward, but messy. A pita though compared to the one piece screw on filters.
Old 03-26-2015, 08:53 PM
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tom geuther
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Originally Posted by Jud Chapin
Yes, that's all you need. Pretty straight forward, but messy. A pita though compared to the one piece screw on filters.
So fill the canister with fresh oil before bolting it back into the engine?

Last edited by tom geuther; 03-26-2015 at 08:56 PM.
Old 03-26-2015, 08:59 PM
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66jack
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If your not worried about originality, I'd spend the 50 bucks and purchase the adapter kit for the screw on filter...make sure you get one for the 327 as the 350 takes a different style...

As far as putting oil in the canister, it gets oil filtered more quickly as to pumping air until the canister fills...
Old 03-26-2015, 09:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
The new filter will come with a new O-ring. After removal of the chainster and you cleaned it out Remove the old O-ring and carefully install the new one making sure it doesn't double over and twist. Once in place put the new filter in the canister fill with oil. Start the bolt and snug it up by hand then rotate the canister to unsure the O-ring has seated. Then tighten up the bolt
Good advice. Use some Vaseline or grease on the o-ring when installing it in the groove in the block. That will hold it in place.

Best oil filter replacement is NAPA Gold #1143 made by WIX. The others are not nearly as good…………check the archives if in doubt.

After installing the canister and getting the bolt hand tight, torque it to 20-25 ft-lbs before starting the car. Then add any remaining oil and start the car. Check for leaks before driving.

Larry
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Old 03-26-2015, 09:20 PM
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tom geuther
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Originally Posted by Powershift
Good advice. Use some Vaseline or grease on the o-ring when installing it in the groove in the block. That will hold it in place.

Best oil filter replacement is NAPA Gold #1143 made by WIX. The others are not nearly as good…………check the archives if in doubt.

After installing the canister and getting the bolt hand tight, torque it to 20-25 ft-lbs before starting the car. Then add any remaining oil and start the car. Check for leaks before driving.

Larry
Great info, thank you Lads.
Old 03-26-2015, 09:23 PM
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SS409
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It's actually a square cut washer not an o-ring. Just make sure it's not twisted when pushed into the block.
Old 03-26-2015, 09:38 PM
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To remove the old o-ring rubber gasket (square cut gasket ) I use a very thin and small screwdriver to pry the o-ring out of the groove. Then grab it with needle-nose pliers. Some folks will use a dental pick.

If needed, you can undo the two small bolts that hold the filter bypass assembly in the block and remove it. Then the old o-ring is easy to remove. Reinstall the filter bypass and tighten with a 1/4 inch drive ratchet, short extension, and 6-pt socket. I have had to do this on my car when I first bought it, as the previous owner had TWO gaskets installed………both hard and brittle…………an accident just waiting to happen.

FWIW (For what it's worth)

Larry
Old 03-27-2015, 07:27 AM
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MarkC
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I like the canister. It looks to me like it holds 30 to 50 percent more oil than a small spin on. Has anyone actually measured to see what the difference is?
Old 03-27-2015, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by tom geuther
So fill the canister with fresh oil before bolting it back into the engine?
Yes.
Old 03-27-2015, 08:01 AM
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Jud Chapin
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Originally Posted by tom geuther
So fill the canister with fresh oil before bolting it back into the engine?
I've always filled a filter with oil, if possible as some install on an angle, before installing it. However, I read an article once saying you shouldn't do this, but it has never made sense to me.
Old 03-27-2015, 08:01 AM
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I just replaced it last week for the first time since I had the car. It wasn't that bad, not too messy. Actually, some newer cars are going back to canisters these days. Probably because it's cheaper or easier on the environment because you replace just the filter, not the housing? Don't know why exactly...
Found out I had a magnetic drain plug by the way, cool!
Old 03-27-2015, 09:21 AM
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J.Moore
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Yep, above posts have it covered. One more little tip I found that works is that sometimes the bolt washer going up through the canister may be worn enough to cause a leak. Instead of removing and replacing the bolt seal washer, which is the correct way, i just pull the bolt down against the spring tension and apply a small amount of RTV silicone around the bolt head between the bolt and washer and install like normal. Prevents an annoying leak till you replace the washer on the bolt.
Old 03-27-2015, 10:24 AM
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SupremeDeluxe
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Liberally coat the new seal with silicone grease. That will keep it seated in the groove while you install the canister.

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