Snubber order of addition
07-07-2015, 02:58 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Snubber order of addition
I'm replacing the differential carrier "snubber" on my 63 SWC. I got the old rubber out just in time from the looks of the rubber cushions. Bought the new cushion set from LIC and now need to see the order of stacking the rubber cushions and the snubber bushings. The AIM drawing is pretty sketchy and concentrates on the leaf springs. Does anyone have a better diagram than the AIM?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
07-07-2015, 03:25 PM
#2
Team Owner
On my 66 it goes..
From top down...
bolt
washer
molded cushion with metal insert
large cushion
lrg flat washer
lock
nut..
From top down...
bolt
washer
molded cushion with metal insert
large cushion
lrg flat washer
lock
nut..
The following users liked this post:
Gene jockey (11-26-2016)
The following users liked this post:
Gene jockey (11-26-2016)
11-26-2016, 07:25 PM
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
Snubber order of addition Part Deux, onward to the brackets on the casting
Now that I have the snubber cushions in place, my next problem is the fit of the snubber bracket to the casting ( the thing that looks like a wooden shoe). There is a long through-bolt that serves as the pivot for the snubber, and then there are four bolts, two on each side, that should screw into the casting. I can't get the four short bolts that should to engage the casting to engage. Is there a trick to getting all of the holes lined up? I might not have the right bolts. Would they be some odd size? Thanks for your help!
11-26-2016, 08:09 PM
#5
Team Owner
Now that I have the snubber cushions in place, my next problem is the fit of the snubber bracket to the casting ( the thing that looks like a wooden shoe). There is a long through-bolt that serves as the pivot for the snubber, and then there are four bolts, two on each side, that should screw into the casting. I can't get the four short bolts that should to engage the casting to engage. Is there a trick to getting all of the holes lined up? I might not have the right bolts. Would they be some odd size? Thanks for your help!
front long bolt insert from drivers side/castle nut/lock washer with cotter pin
back bolt inserts form pass side...bolt/lock/nut....40-55 ft/lbs...
PUT THE REAR BOLT IN FIRST..USE IT AS PIVOT TO INSERT THE FRONT BOLT WHILE INSTALLING SNUBBER BUSHING AT THE SAME TIME..
Not sure if your 63 might be/or is different...on the bolts...
Sorry for yelling...
Last edited by 66jack; 11-26-2016 at 08:14 PM.
12-02-2016, 06:30 PM
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for the advice on the snubber order. The Aft-most through bolt is in position, and the snubber cushions are in place as well. I now find that I cannot get the through-bolts in place. It looks like the bolts are blocked by the fiberglass well walls on both sides. Seems like the only way to get the bolts in place is to drill holes in the fiberglass wells, which seems like a dumb idea. What am I missing?
12-02-2016, 06:52 PM
#7
Instructor
Thread Starter
The snubber is now in position, and it lines up well with the stepped metal bushing in the frame. However, I cannot get the through-bolts to align except for the aft-most one, the pivot. There is not enough clearance to get any of the through bolts into the casting. The walls of the luggage wells are too to close. It seems like there should be a hole in the wells , but drilling holes seems like a bad idea. I Also can't get the other bolts to line up with the casting. It seems like there is a slight twist. The car is up on a lift supported on the flat spots on the frame. What am I missing?
12-02-2016, 07:31 PM
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
Thanks for the advice on the snubber order. The Aft-most through bolt is in position, and the snubber cushions are in place as well. I now find that I cannot get the through-bolts in place. It looks like the bolts are blocked by the fiberglass well walls on both sides. Seems like the only way to get the bolts in place is to drill holes in the fiberglass wells, which seems like a dumb idea. What am I missing?
12-02-2016, 07:57 PM
#9
Team Owner
How did you remove them?...
I was under the assumption you had the body off...
The manual for my car '66' says you have to 'drill' holes in the body to get them put back in, so, I'll assume its the same for the 63...
I was under the assumption you had the body off...
The manual for my car '66' says you have to 'drill' holes in the body to get them put back in, so, I'll assume its the same for the 63...
12-03-2016, 10:44 AM
#10
Race Director
Member Since: May 2000
Location: Redondo Beach USA
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The spring force tends to push the nose of the axle up, so use a prybar between the axle and bracket to pry it down enough to get the front bolts started. The '63 shop manual says to jam a block of wood between the axle and the floorpan to keep the nose from tilting up, but that doesn't always work.
The '63 axle front bracket fasteners are two bolts that thread into the carrier, but this was later changed to a through bolt and nut with a reinforced bracket, so maybe this car has a later carrier.
The front bracket bolts on '63s tended to come loose and the bracket distorted, which was the reason for the design change, but it sure complicates the pinion seal or front bracket cushion change jobs since you can't get the front through bolt out due to interference with the floor pan. Thus the instruction to drill a hole in in the floor pan to remove the bolt.
Duke
The '63 axle front bracket fasteners are two bolts that thread into the carrier, but this was later changed to a through bolt and nut with a reinforced bracket, so maybe this car has a later carrier.
The front bracket bolts on '63s tended to come loose and the bracket distorted, which was the reason for the design change, but it sure complicates the pinion seal or front bracket cushion change jobs since you can't get the front through bolt out due to interference with the floor pan. Thus the instruction to drill a hole in in the floor pan to remove the bolt.
Duke
The following users liked this post:
Gene jockey (12-04-2016)
12-04-2016, 05:14 PM
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
snubber order of addition
The spring force tends to push the nose of the axle up, so use a prybar between the axle and bracket to pry it down enough to get the front bolts started. The '63 shop manual says to jam a block of wood between the axle and the floorpan to keep the nose from tilting up, but that doesn't always work.
The '63 axle front bracket fasteners are two bolts that thread into the carrier, but this was later changed to a through bolt and nut with a reinforced bracket, so maybe this car has a later carrier.
The front bracket bolts on '63s tended to come loose and the bracket distorted, which was the reason for the design change, but it sure complicates the pinion seal or front bracket cushion change jobs since you can't get the front through bolt out due to interference with the floor pan. Thus the instruction to drill a hole in in the floor pan to remove the bolt.
Duke
The '63 axle front bracket fasteners are two bolts that thread into the carrier, but this was later changed to a through bolt and nut with a reinforced bracket, so maybe this car has a later carrier.
The front bracket bolts on '63s tended to come loose and the bracket distorted, which was the reason for the design change, but it sure complicates the pinion seal or front bracket cushion change jobs since you can't get the front through bolt out due to interference with the floor pan. Thus the instruction to drill a hole in in the floor pan to remove the bolt.
Duke
Many thanks, Duke, for your illumination of the front bracket design. I feel better now knowing this was so complicated. I have a new bracket from Muskegon Brake, so now may be the time to use it since I'll be drilling holes. Your comments on the distorted bracket are consistent with the distortion I have in my car, so it may be my car is one of the earlier ones . I will follow up once I get drilling.