vmaxpwc

I am replacing the non power brake master with a power booster in my 1966 roadster. I pulled the non power master cylinder today and to install the power booster it looks like I have to remove the studs that held the non power master cylinder to the firewall. Has anyone done this and if so what is the prefered method of removing those studs so the power booster can be installed? Thanks

Frankie the Fink

I had to do that on my '63 power booster addition. You can put a nut on the end to preserve the stud threads, give the nut a tap or two with a hammer and they should come right out. Remember to put the clevis attachment from the booster in the right hole in the downrod for the brake pedal....you want the lower hole to accommodate the tilt of the PB master cylinder/booster arrangement. And I presume you already have the PB front brake line...

vmaxpwc

Thanks Frankie

I thought that might be the way to remove the studs but did not know if they were welded in and I might deform the bracket. I will hit them with a big hammer! I am installing a new front to rear one piece brake line and new front lines with the correct 1966 master cylinder. That brake line to the rear looks tough to install. I have removed the original one. I plan to thread the new brake line through the front of the cross member going towards the rear. Any experience with that?

Frankie the Fink

No. Haven't done the rear brake line on a C2 but some here have. Maybe they'll chime in.

Powershift

It can be done with some patience. I have personally done it on my 1967 car.

Larry

J.Moore

I'm not Frank, and I've never met him but he seems like an intelligent and very helpful gentleman, but I'll try to give a few tips as I just converted my 65 back to power as it was from St. Louis.

You could have left the front to rear line in place and used it. You have to carefully bend, shape and form that line to enter the rear port on the new dual MC with a line bending tool. A cheap one from Harbor Freight works ok. Add the 66 front line to a new 66 power brake junction block on frame inside LF tire. Several other parts to make the kit that you can buy.
Also gotta have the reinforcement plate for the 2 upper bolts that install in left wiper grill area.I was lucky as my car already had that plate since it was a PB car originally.

Search here as there are lots of other members that have done this change and posted good pics of their job that really explain it pretty well. I just followed their path and mine turned out well.. Later Jack

Frankie the Fink

You could prob bend that front line to work but it was going to take some effort to get around the clutch linkage, etc.. on my '63. And I didn't know how much I was willing to stress the line....the PB brake line was a few bucks and went in in a few minutes. I also had the thought that if the PB ever failed I could keep the original line, manual M/C and mounting studs and go back to manual brakes in a coupe of hours...

Whichever way you go put some plastic caps on the end of the line so you aren't scraping any goo into the line off the frame/engine when fishing it into place (note red cap on line end in pic)